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  1. #1
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    Mariner 150 Magnum II

    Hi, new to your site. Looks like a ton of knowledge and expertise here.

    I have a 17' V hull which had a 2.4 MOD VP on it, until I lent it to 2 EX friends.

    I have finally found the determination (and deal) to get a motor back on the boat after about 8 years.

    What I found was an late 80's Mariner 150 Magnum II.
    It does need a rebuild, as the vendor states that the previous owner it ran out of injection oil.
    #1 Cylinder rings visually ok, the piston and head have physical damage that looks like the electrode of a spark plug came off and bounced around for a while. Cylinder walls are scored near the transfer ports.
    #5 Rings are broken and there is lots of blow by on the piston and cylinder walls, some alum. transfer to the cylinder.

    Bearings all seem ok, again visually.

    Questions,
    What should I be on the look out for especially. I have rebuilt a few motors, so I can measure etc. What are the critical things that I want to verify ?

    What can be done to this motor while it's apart to up the HP some.
    What are the differences from this block to that of a 200 ?
    Can this block be put on the MOD VP lower unit, as it's all tricked out already and is still on the boat ?
    I would like some more HP (of course) but I do want reliability and not to have to run on race gas. I don't mind feeding it 93 or 94 octane, but a steady diet of 110 ain't gonna happen.

    I thank you all in advance for any help and suggestions.

    Mark

  2. #2
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    Lake Coochiching, Ontario
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    Porting, tuner, carbs, timing module are different from the 200. It will fit your other lower unit.

    Low budget approach would be tighter heads, maybe 135 -145 psi for 93 octane, dump the timing module, set the timing to 25 degrees, and add a tuner.

    Add porting and bigger carbs, and you can make a lot of HP.

    Another approach would be to buy a drop on.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for your reply.
    I have done about 5 hours reading on this site...Damn It's a great site, but there are a lot of you here that know way to much about 2 strokes...
    Well, no such thing as too much I guess.

    I have figured I would shave the heads, I can cut them by trial and error I suppose unless someone has a formula in their back pocket.
    I am very intrigued by the though of porting, how doable is this by a rookie ? And where can I find a port map for it.

    I really don't want to re-invent the wheel here, I just want some more go.
    If I could get 200 outta this block with out spending more than what a 200 can be had for then I would be very happy.

    Any other insights ?

    Thanks
    MArk

  4. #4
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    If you look around on this sight some more, there is a formula to figure out the cc's of the head, and to calculate what you have now and what you need for any particular compression.

    It's beyond me, but some of the guys here can do it in their sleep.

    John

  5. #5
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    Thanks for your reply,
    I have spent quite a few hours a nite reading threads on this list.
    I keep reading until my head feels like it's gonna blow..
    I am sure there are guys here that can do all this stuff in their sleep, right now I find it amazing that there are people that have massaged these motors to the extent that they have and power levels that have been produced.
    My hat is off to them for sure. I hope I can learn half of what they know.
    I wish there was a thread or site that can explain all the terms and short forms that are used.. Like the rod slots... glad I finally saw that picture...

    Again, Thanks

    Mark

  6. #6
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    Go to a horizontal front. It will help. I have a program that I have made some templates that when cut out and taped into the cylinder it is extreamly accurate and will aid in the shape/height of the cylinder. Put in and spray paint the cylinder and grind away the paint. Here is a example. This is one for a 2.0L that I am raising the port timing on. I can make you one for a 200 stock spec. Change the front 1/2 and port timing and you have basicly a steel bore 200 if port timing is not already 1.600. Not sure on a XR-4 but a 200 has 1.600 and the bridgeport has 1.550 port timing. If you find a set of UNCUT 2.0L heads and bolt on they are suppose to yeild right at 145-150 which would be safe for 93. Just my 2 cents.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    James Perry

  7. #7
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    rod slots

    Cutting of the rod slots directs the air/fuel change towards the transfer ports. This increases flow and power. Here is a pic of a rod slot that has been cut. note the angle that directs it into the ports.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    James Perry

  8. #8
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    wrenchin2,
    Thanks for your reply.
    Your port map is for a 2.0 L block ? I think mine is 2.4 L block ?
    Do you have the map for a 2.4 block ?
    You also talk about a horizontal front, can you describe this and what is different than mine.
    The carbs I have have dual bowls ( they look like only one from the outside but I did open them and they have duals. I also believe they are the bigger carbs, they at least look bigger than the 1" bore that I have read about.
    Let me know what can be done, and what you may be able to help me out with.
    I really appreciate it all.

    Another question, any time I track my car (450HP, 2.3 L motor) I add in some toluene. I do know that it makes a difference in my car, but has anyone tried it in an outboard. I don't know if it's properties may adversly effect oiling ?

    Thanks

    Mark

  9. #9
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    Yes, the port map is for the 2.0L. I have a 2.4 200 that I can make a port map of or raise the timing a little more for more power. The verticle reeds stand up like on your engine. a horizontal lays flat and flows alot better because it doesn't have to make a curve. I will post some pics tonight. GOt to go to work for now.
    James Perry

  10. #10
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    No need I understand what you mean.

    Thanks.
    So, off to the buy and sell area to see if there are any of these for sale.
    Need some pistons too.
    Thanks,
    Mark

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