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Thread: Ford Techs please.
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11-29-2006, 05:24 AM #31
Thanx!
Originally Posted by electricjohn
Fixed that, re-set codes and is running fine again.
Not sure if it has been running cold entire time or not but just caught it and I know that will throw the system of too.
Thanks for all your help guys!
Gary
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12-15-2006, 07:38 PM #32
OK i didnt read everyones responces....But i did read your complaint....The fix is to replace the upper and lower intake manifold o-rings.....Now as a preventitive maintence.Pull the MAF sensor our of the housing it will be bolted in with 2 T-20 torx screws and 1 may be painted over just use small pliers to loosen it. Now look inside you will see 2 wires clean real well with Carb clean and reinstall....99.9% of the time this will take care of the prob..In a rare case clogged injectors will cause this code but it usually sets a misfire code as well...Do what i have told you and i can almost guarantee it will be fixed.
Im a ASE master L1 technian and own a shop...If you want PM me and i will give you my # and we can talk more.
Good luck
Jason
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01-11-2007, 03:27 PM #33
i worked as a ford dealer tech-we used to hook the ford code reader and watch the signals off of the front 02 sensors and the short term fuel pids while spraying carb spray around the intake -you could find the leak.most ford dealer stock the oring for the intake.not a hard job.i used brake cleaner on the gaskit surfaces to clean them up.be carefull tighting some parts up-plastic will crack.
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01-11-2007, 04:01 PM #34
missed the last two responses..
thanx guys!
Already cleaned the MAF sensor w/no change.
Light is back on and staying on.
Seems to be running pretty good but am now leaning towards an intake leak as suggested.
Will check this weekend time permitting.
Thanx again guys!!
Gary
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01-11-2007, 06:09 PM #35
did you try different coils? I have some of the high output coils for drag racing if you need some.
Ralph Musser
27' Fountain Fever W/ 525SC
22' Rapid Craft W/ Evinrude 300 V8 January 2009 BOAT OF THE MONTH SOLD
24' Triton 240 Gold W/ Mercury 60
14' Royalcraft W/ Evinrude 75 father/daughter project
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01-11-2007, 07:08 PM #36
Ur...
Originally Posted by Riverratt
Never thought of that though???Hummhhhh
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01-11-2007, 09:13 PM #37Screaming And Flying!
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Are those the type that bolt onto the valve covers Rick
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01-11-2007, 09:28 PM #38
I had the same problem with both the p0171 and p0174 codes in both my 96 5.8L bronco and my 99 and 00 3.8L ford windstars. Its not gasket leaks or bad 02 sensors. I went through the same crap with my long gone 99 windstar. I changed all the ox sensors and did the intake gasket and some other stuff. one mechanic said stop running 87. the ethenol is f'n it up. ever since I ran the premium my light never came back on on either car. a couple of times I tried switching back to 87 and eventually the light comes back on. also never unhook the battery to reset the ecm. It will idle badly when its warm. it also states this in the sevice book.
the best site for car repair is flatratetech.com you see factory techs posting their. Im sure this topic has been covered numerous times as well.
good luckHelmut
slow boats
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01-12-2007, 05:38 AM #39
Interesting info Helmut.
Originally Posted by stvhelm
Gary
And Rick, I think those coils are mounted with drywall screws. A college edumacation learns U things like that
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04-24-2008, 12:30 AM #40Junior Member
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The problem is actually the intake manifold upper half (Plentum) O-Rings become Rock hard. When the engine is cold and/or your moving down the road it draws in air causing it to kick out lean codes. Running it warm and trying to test for a vacume leak it will test ok. Swells enough to keep it masked. A smoke machine cold would show the problem. Mass Air flow sensor is the common diagnosis and then after resetting the fuel trim a test drive shows ok.. Tech thinks he's got it but as soon as the computers fuel map corrections become out of range, could take days the light comes back on. O-rings are absolutly for sure the problem. It's pretty easy to do too..
I manage a shop with 35 years experiance and my specialty is on-board computer, electrical and fuel systems. I've seen many, many of these..
As far as a Windstar goes it has it's own problems a little different but in the same area. Technical service buliten says to replace the plentum bolts and the O-rings, front valve cover if there isn't a hole it in the PCV baffle plate so as to drain the oil back into the motor when it gets caught in there. Also replace some of the vacume tube assy's. Then make sure the computer has the newest software in it. The fix is one of the vacume tube assy. I believe it is the fuel pressure regulator tube/ PCV hose. It becomes impregnated with oil and you really don't notice it when looking for a problem. Pull it off and you'll see it on the inside. Odd ball looking hose with very large end on it connecting to the intake. It has a big price too.Last edited by Surface_cutn; 04-24-2008 at 12:46 AM. Reason: add the windstar note..
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04-24-2008, 01:09 AM #41
i dont feel like reading the replys but check the intake for leaks and brush off the maf very very carefully
Azure AZ259, 8.1
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04-24-2008, 06:29 PM #42
opriginal post is pretty old
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04-24-2008, 07:19 PM #43
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04-24-2008, 07:27 PM #44
yeah and my engine light came on again about a month later
Helmut
slow boats
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04-24-2008, 10:08 PM #45
My little ford with the bad trans is still going good with the cooler and additives, but I think a wheel bearing is talking to me and they press them in so I can't do it. Waiting for it to get louder, lol. I have no idea what car I will buy next.
"As government expands, liberty contracts." -Ronald Reagan
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