Fuel Delivery Prob..??

**CDave** · 10-21-2006, 04:53 PM

Have you changed the ignition module yet?

FYI, the easiest way to change the fuel pump is to cut a hole in the bed.

**Ted Stryker** · 10-21-2006, 06:30 PM

No Dave I haven't changed the module yet, would that cause the injectors dry up the way that they're doing..? As far as the bed, maybe I shouldn't have necessarily said the "easiest"..

**The Big Al** · 10-21-2006, 06:49 PM

it's mounted on the firewall by the wiper motor
<TABLE class=base-table><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top rowSpan=2></TD><TD vAlign=top><TABLE class=base-table style="FONT-SIZE: 11px" width="100%"><TBODY><TR height=1><TD width="50%"></TD><TD widht="50%"></TD></TR><TR><TD class=genericLink colSpan=2>BORG-WARNER - Fuel Pump Relay </TD><TR><TR><TD style="COLOR: #777777" colSpan=2>Part No: R4005 </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD><TD vAlign=top><TABLE class=base-table style="FONT-SIZE: 12px" width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width=10>

</TD><TD width=145>1 Per Vehicle </TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width=10>

</TD><TD width=145>Limited lifetime warranty </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10px" vAlign=top>Our Price:

Each

</TD></TR><TR><TD style="VERTICAL-ALIGN: bottom; HEIGHT: 50px" colSpan=2>

</TD><TD vAlign=bottom>

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

This is at O Rielly Auto Parts

**The Big Al** · 10-21-2006, 06:51 PM

They do not work well reused

<TABLE class=base-table><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top rowSpan=2></TD><TD vAlign=top><TABLE class=base-table style="FONT-SIZE: 11px" width="100%"><TBODY><TR height=1><TD width="50%"></TD><TD widht="50%"></TD></TR><TR><TD class=genericLink colSpan=2>AIRTEX - Fuel Pump Connector </TD><TR><TR><TD style="COLOR: #777777" colSpan=2>Part No: WH3000 </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD><TD vAlign=top><TABLE class=base-table style="FONT-SIZE: 12px" width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width=10>

</TD><TD width=145>1 Per Vehicle </TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width=10>

</TD><TD width=145>1 year limited warranty </TD></TR><TR style="FONT-SIZE: 10px"><TD vAlign=top width=10>

</TD><TD width=145>w/o HIGH TEMP FUEL SENDER OR SUBURBAN </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10px" vAlign=top>Our Price:

Each

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**The Big Al** · 10-21-2006, 06:54 PM

Your engine might have 2 sending units (one with 2 terminals and one with 4 terminals), you need to change the 4 terminal one

<TABLE class=base-table><TBODY><TR style="PADDING-RIGHT: 3px; PADDING-LEFT: 3px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 3px; PADDING-TOP: 3px" height=10><TD width=75></TD><TD width=245></TD><TD width=180></TD><TD width=90></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top rowSpan=2></TD><TD vAlign=top><TABLE class=base-table style="FONT-SIZE: 11px" width="100%"><TBODY><TR height=1><TD width="50%"></TD><TD widht="50%"></TD></TR><TR><TD class=genericLink colSpan=2>BORG-WARNER - Oil Pressure Switch Connector </TD><TR><TR><TD style="COLOR: #777777" colSpan=2>Part No: PT258 </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD><TD vAlign=top><TABLE class=base-table style="FONT-SIZE: 12px" width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width=10>

</TD><TD width=145>1 Per Vehicle </TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width=10>

</TD><TD width=145>Limited lifetime warranty </TD></TR><TR style="FONT-SIZE: 10px"><TD vAlign=top width=10>

</TD><TD width=145>FOR 4 PIN TERMINAL SWITCH </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10px" vAlign=top></TD></TR><TR><TD style="VERTICAL-ALIGN: bottom; HEIGHT: 50px" colSpan=2>

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**Ted Stryker** · 10-21-2006, 08:24 PM

Thanks Al, I have an O'reillys nearby that I may be able to get to tomorrow.. That's where My replacement pump came from..

**CDave** · 10-22-2006, 10:06 AM

Originally Posted by Ted Stryker

No Dave I haven't changed the module yet, would that cause the injectors dry up the way that they're doing..?

Don't know about that but your problem sounds alot like a bad module. Ya know the old saying, 90% of fuel problems are in the ignition.

**Ted Stryker** · 10-22-2006, 01:03 PM

Yeah, and 90% of those are a pain in My azz...

**old school** · 10-22-2006, 02:12 PM

Well we all want to see ya finally nail it. You pay for an education, one way or another...

**live2ride31** · 11-27-2006, 07:58 PM

did you ever get it fixed?

**Ted Stryker** · 11-27-2006, 09:14 PM

I have an ignition module ordered that was supposed to be in about 2 weeks ago, since I haven't gotten the delivery call yet I have used that as a shallow excuse to not work on the blasted thing... To be direct, I haven't done a thing to it but move it out of the way of My daily activities... I know, I know I'm a lazy frustrated Bastard...

**electricjohn** · 11-28-2006, 06:09 PM

IIRC, the oil pressure switch just backs up the fuel pump relay to keep you running if there was a fuel pump relay failure. They are wired in parrellel and would not shut the pump down on a loss of oil pressure unless the fuel pump relay failed too. Low oil pressure (<4psi) will not shut your engine down. Your pump runs for 2 seconds upon key-up, runs during crank, and will continue to run if your distributor gives an input ( engine running) pulse to the ECM. Check the fuel pressure on the rail during key-up with a pressure gauge at the shrader valve mounted on the rail. This will tell you if you have a bad fuel pressure regulator. You should get about 40 psi on the rail after key-up, then it will drop since the engine is not running. If you start the engine, it should stay at about 40.

**Ted Stryker** · 11-28-2006, 06:59 PM

That's good to know... The fuel pump relay is good, but I don't have a fuel pressure gauge.. I'm thinking about just taking it to the local GM dealership where they have the equipment to assess these evil symptoms.. I'll check on a pressure tester, if there pretty cheap I'll pick one up and give it a whirl... Thanks for the input, I guess I'm becoming less of an idiot as the replies come in...

**electricjohn** · 11-28-2006, 07:25 PM

Kev,
You can use a tire pressure gauge. Just use a rag too to contain any spray. On another note, you talked like the problem went away after 10 minutes or so then came back, and on and on. This sounds more like a loose electrical connection related to heat. Gets hot, engine dies, cools down, engine starts. If you have a distributor, check the electical plugs going to it, if they get loose, heat can be breaking your connection. One of these two plugs brings the +12 volts to the distributor. If you have coil packs than strike that last idea or check connections to your swichbox.

**Ted Stryker** · 11-29-2006, 08:59 PM

Initially the time till stall was relatively consistant, but now I'm lucky to get 50' out of it before it dies.. Last week I decided to get it out from under My covered parking to make room for our operating vehicles, although it hadn't been cranked in a couple of weeks it died twice trying to get it to the next door driveway and it felt like the same kind of stalling as before and not just rigormortis... If I decide to blow it up, I'm gonna try to get My hands on one of the old 100 megaton Hydrogen bombs from the Cold War Soviet Union era and send everyone a free video of the "expansion"... You will all be invited to run some closed course boat races in the small lake that will be created, it's a win win for everyone...

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Change relay!

Also if you did not chnage the conector for the pump, you need to.

The 4 pin Oil sending unit is the one that operates the pump.

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