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08-13-2007, 09:41 PM #61
Boaterbum
Hummmmmmmmm Boat Bum
that name says it all Only kidding dude.
In all seriousness check out Ebay, you can find a few Berk pumps over there. Shipping will be steep on a complete pump. My buddy has 2 spare pumps but won't part with them.
Southern Hotboater
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08-17-2007, 01:59 AM #62
Love it when UPS comes
Everytime UPS comes up the drive it's kind of like Christmas. My Milidon stainless steel dip stick and loud cut Pete Jackson gear drive came today.
Southern Hotboater
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09-24-2007, 11:03 PM #63
Project boat
http://
Ok I got my 44' cowl induction scoop and started wacking on it some. Looks like this will be the plan for filling the big ass hole in the engine hatch. This is gonna be a tough one for a rookie. I really picked a good one for my first glass project.Last edited by WICKEDRISTER; 09-25-2007 at 09:37 PM.
Southern Hotboater
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09-26-2007, 08:47 PM #64
Looks Good Fred You Need To Get It Up In The Back Just A BIt More. Hope I Can Come And See It Soon Dont Have Much Time Anymore!!!!!
SML SUPER JET
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09-27-2007, 09:07 PM #65
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10-02-2007, 10:08 PM #66
CVX20 Project
Monday after returning home from Thunder on the James I started on the engine hatch. Got one coat of epoxy resin and cloth on the inside edges. It will take a bunch of work to blend it all together but that was a good starting point.
Southern Hotboater
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10-02-2007, 10:15 PM #67
CVX20 Project
Worked on stringer templates today. Had a set made out of card board but didn't trust them so I made a set out of wood. Just about ready to cut out the real deal now. I have two 2 x 6 x 14 fir boards all ready to go.
Last edited by WICKEDRISTER; 10-03-2007 at 07:12 AM.
Southern Hotboater
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10-02-2007, 10:29 PM #68
[QUOTE=WICKEDRISTER;1204093]Worked on stringer templates today. Had a set made out of card board but didn't trust them so I made a sert out of wood. Just about ready to cut out the real deal now. I have two 2 x 6 x 14 fir boards all ready to go.
Looking good Fred brings back memories when doing my 23ft Sleekcraft floors. Let the Fir dry out, mine was heavy (wet) when I purchased it, after about a week it had dried out, and lost a considerable amount of weight.79 Southwind Tunnel Dragster 540ci BBC
UMPBA 926 Gas Jet
My Projects http://s200.photobucket.com/user/Dir...?sort=3&page=1
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10-03-2007, 07:34 AM #69
CVX20 Project
[QUOTE=sleekcrafter;1204100] Thanks Sleekcrafter!
The place I got them from told me they were kiln dried lumber and have no moisture in them. He went on to tell me that I should look for the darker tight grain heavy boards to use for this project. He said they would be the inner core wood of the tree and will be the strongest. I'm no wood guy so I picked the dark heavy ones. Just my luck I may have got the two really wet ones LOL LOL. I have them in a warm dry place and stacked with small blocks spaced out every few inches under them so air can circulate around them. They have been stored that way for over a month now and should be good to go.
(just not sure of the best way to cut them out? ban saw? jig saw? any suggestions?)
Thanks FredLast edited by WICKEDRISTER; 10-03-2007 at 07:40 AM.
Southern Hotboater
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10-03-2007, 06:09 PM #70
CVX20 Project
Put the second coat of cloth and epoxy on the under side of the engine hatch today. That should hold the cowl induction scoop in place. Now the hard part comes, it's time to make it look like it belongs there on the top side. Wish me luck, I have one hell of a gap to fill. Don't know if I should use epoxy with filler or use marine-tex. Anny suggestions
Thanks Fred
Last edited by WICKEDRISTER; 10-03-2007 at 06:13 PM.
Southern Hotboater
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10-03-2007, 06:22 PM #71
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10-03-2007, 09:25 PM #72
CVX20 Project
Thank you Darlene!
You have given me tons of information on this project from the start.
Did I ever tell you how much I like your Avatar. That's funnyLast edited by WICKEDRISTER; 10-03-2007 at 09:50 PM.
Southern Hotboater
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10-04-2007, 09:43 PM #73
CVX20 Project
Started on the top side today. What a mess!
Southern Hotboater
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10-05-2007, 04:43 AM #74
Are you going with the West System epoxy?
If so, just follow their product guide (either the brochure or on their website) for "Bonding with fillets" or something like that. It'll give you directions and tips for getting it right the first time.
When it comes time to put your stringers in, Use Epoxy Resin!
Don't screw around with polyester resin for anything structural!
The reason behind that caveat is that while the boat was built using polyester, it was built in one whack where all the resin (in each molded part) was wet at one time and cured as one mass. This is molecular level bonding.
When you do a repair or modification, you can't have molecular bonding again, only adhesive bonding. ... Epoxies have at least 20% better adhesive bonding abilities than poyester.
It's worth the extra $$.
Darlene
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10-05-2007, 07:35 AM #75
West System Epoxy
Darlene,
I have the 105 epoxy, 206 hardener, 404 HD filler, the pump kit and the West Sysyems User Manual. So far I like it for what little I have used. Only other thing I have ever worked with was your run of the mill parts store waxed poly resin.
The back of the boat has 2 body lines that need to be blended into the cowl scoop if it's ever going to look good. Should I do all of this filling and building up with the 404 and epoxy. Are there any other products I can use in combonation with the epoxy. I did some work with Marine-Tex and it was nice to work with.
On the stringer install I have 2 gallons of Hull and Deck putty for a bedding conpound. This stuff kicks with MEKP, I'm told it will be just fine to epoxy over this but never go over epoxy with any kind of poly. They tell me that epoxy sticks to most everything but most things won't stick to epoxy.
Thank you for all the time you have taken to helpl me sort out this $600 boat project.
FredLast edited by WICKEDRISTER; 10-05-2007 at 10:21 PM.
Southern Hotboater