Painting MADEFI MIDS????

**MODXR6** · 09-21-2006, 08:01 AM

Confused about the plastic statement. Don't understand about plastic on a midsection. All tech specs I've read powdercoat isn't plastic. Maybe I'm missing something.

**Fast Fig** · 09-21-2006, 11:59 AM

Originally Posted by MODXR6

Confused about the plastic statement. Don't understand about plastic on a midsection. All tech specs I've read powdercoat isn't plastic. Maybe I'm missing something.

Bruster mentions about a plasic repair, meaning patch/filler...etc. Quite frankly It has always been my understanding that powdercoating is a dry form of application to an electrical charged alloy component which is then baked to fuse these particals together as a coating, hense using regular fillers wont work(need to use a metal base filler ) regular fillers would not be cunductive, so his statement inconclusive, yet accurate when he says powder coating is unrepairable if thats infact what he meant. By the way Bruster beautiful job on that Merc. it does look glossier than new. Peace! FIG

**David - WI** · 09-21-2006, 12:15 PM

Powdercoat is plastic powder that's "melted" together to form the coating... there are epoxy, polyurethane, polyester and probably other types of plastics used.

There are fillers that work under powdercoat... Hi-Temp LabMetal is the one that we use:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT

**The Big Al** · 09-21-2006, 01:25 PM

powder coating is a bonding to the surface.

Also 1000 times stronger than paint, if done correctly, and metal is clean and prepped you can hit power coat with a hammer, you will dent it, but not chip it.

The only way to remove correctly applied powder coat is to sandblast it.
Also if you do damage an area than has been powder coated, it will not chip further like paint. It is bonded to the surface.

AL

**David - WI** · 09-21-2006, 02:01 PM

Originally Posted by The Big Al

powder coating is a bonding to the surface.

Also 1000 times stronger than paint, if done correctly, and metal is clean and prepped you can hit power coat with a hammer, you will dent it, but not chip it.

The only way to remove correctly applied powder coat is to sandblast it.
Also if you do damage an area than has been powder coated, it will not chip further like paint. It is bonded to the surface.

AL

Not necessarily.

The different types of power have different properties... some are not UV resistant and won't hold up outdoors very well at all. Others are harder but more brittle... and some can be used in greater thickness than others.

You can find lots of info here:
http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/tgic.html
http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/poly.html
http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/epoxy.html
http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/hybrid.html

The high temperature stuff is relatively new, I believe.

**Liquid Force** · 09-21-2006, 08:01 PM

It seems like a 50/50 call, I think in the end I will paint it, reason being is none of the manufactures powdercoat them OEM and I would imagine that would be cheaper for them, there must be a reason why they don't.

Talking of the high temp coatings I have just had the MADEFI tuners done in high temp ceramachrome to keep the heat in them and try and lower the temp's on the outside of the midsection, wether it's in paint or powdercoat.

**GelcoatJoe** · 10-29-2006, 10:34 AM

bigest mistake i ever did, one runand bubbles and lifting.....never again wit this garbage,go paint.......

**Bruster** · 10-29-2006, 06:12 PM

Originally Posted by The Big Al

powder coating is a bonding to the surface.

Also 1000 times stronger than paint, if done correctly, and metal is clean and prepped you can hit power coat with a hammer, you will dent it, but not chip it.

The only way to remove correctly applied powder coat is to sandblast it.
Also if you do damage an area than has been powder coated, it will not chip further like paint. It is bonded to the surface.

AL

It's not the further chipping, it's the fact the aluminium will corrode where the powder coat isn't. There are 100 good reasons to use (ther correct) paint on a midsection and only a handful to P/C I am sure there will be a few more here who will still try it anyway.

**dan1731** · 10-29-2006, 06:15 PM

Mine is powdercoated and looks fine

**GelcoatJoe** · 11-01-2006, 08:17 PM

sure you mid looks good now, wait till it chips and rolls off like wal paper....let us know how it looks then....

**jphii** · 11-01-2006, 08:24 PM

Has anyone thought to call Wayne and get his opinion? Has anyone ever seen a mid that has come powercoated from any factory or aftermarket supplier?

Kinda makes you wonder....

**dan1731** · 11-01-2006, 09:28 PM

Originally Posted by GelcoatJoe

sure you mid looks good now, wait till it chips and rolls off like wal paper....let us know how it looks then....

Ill let you know, but dont hold your breath

**inspectorlance** · 11-02-2006, 01:43 PM

Originally Posted by inspectorlance

I just happen to be talking to Wayne Taylor on the phone after reading this post. My interpitation is : Its kinda a yes / no answer. Yes it will hold if you have a quality powder coat shop that etches, and primes it properly, and also uses an epoxy material. We all know that things are not allway perfect, and a good shops work may peel. So it really comes down to the prep job, and quality materials. sure it will work, but maybe it will peel.

Lance

This is what i posted on the first page.

Lance

**jphii** · 11-02-2006, 02:01 PM

Damm, I missed it. I'd still go paint. I'll try to get a picture of a friends mid that hey painted using Mercury spray paint, of all things. It looks like it was done in a body shop, and it get used a lot. Cost about 40 bucks.

**steve** · 11-02-2006, 02:28 PM

We're going to have them alodined before the primer and paint. From my experience, the local powder coat shop coatings don't hold up well to carb cleaner and other solvents like many of the better paints do. Maybe its just the materials these shops use. In any case, alodine them first. Merc does.