Water injection question

[patrolman808]

I was looking at the Banderlog water injection system as sort of a fool-proof way to control the water to the headers. Here's my question: Could I use a MSD window switch (dual digital programable, 1 for water, 1 for nitrous later) to send power to a solenoid plumbed into a "T" in the water line coming from the pump to the motor? I guess it'd basically be the same thing, only cheaper and with different adjustable settings.

[nitrousdog]

Not only does it need to cut on at 2000 rpm, it needs to cut off under 2000 rpm. I tried an electric solenoid one time and trash would hang it open and shut the engine down at low rpm. I have found the spring loaded valve works best.

Nitrousdog

[Rampager]

Haha patrolman Im gonna start havin to charge you for all this info! lol

I do exactly as you are saying but I use an MSD rpm activated switch with their adjustable rpm "pill" . This triggers a diaphram style valve
My only issue has been the valve getting dirty and sticking open at idle
now that issue for me is largely been due to where and how I run. Basically to me deep water is anything over a foot so im often playing in creeks and rivers that normally you wouldn't(hell most people wouldn;t canoe some places I boat lol)
I am installing a y strainer next week which should take care of the problem for the most part, I'll just have to flush it out after every run and I may eventually put a 2 stage fitlering syetm in there to grab diff particle sizes.
Other than that its worked fine and can be easily adjusted to come on at 1500-2000
Whats the latest with the mighty Ford???


Cheers

(THIS is shallow water for me LOL)

[patrolman808]

Cool, glad to see somebody else is doing the same thing. The old Ford has a few gashes in a couple of the cylinder walls, one about 1/4" wide, and an intake valve with a few chunks missing out of it. It looks like it's still on the stock bore, but I think that one bad gash is going to be too deep to bore out but I'll probalby drop it off at the machine shop and see what they say. I'll have it on my engine stand tomorrow and will be able to check out the bottom end, so maybe there's not anymore carnage hiding down there. I'm already starting to look for a 460 shortblock just incase..

[Rampager]

or you can just sleeve it
my motor has 2 and haven't had any issues with it yet and its been like that for years- I assume cause it was done properly

If you are going to look for blocks I think its in 70 or 71 they made some "thick web' blocks. Basically they were cast to be 4 bolts(very rare) but weren't machined for that. You can see alot more meat down low in the webbing between the bores where the extra bolts would go. These are the better blocks if you can find one. Otherwise the earlier blocks have a slightly shorter deck before they started raising it to lower compression. Otherwise all are fine and will be strong

Cheers and glad to see another guy going with the 460, great motor, now we just need to get ya in an aluminum hull and I'd be REALLY impressed lol

[patrolman808]

Well #8 has a broken top ring that caused the gashes, and there is a decent sized piece of very thin metal (like sheetmetal) jammed in between the #2 rod and crank making it damn near impossible to remove the rod caps on that crank journal. I guess I'll just pull the crank and hammer them from the top side and take them off when they come out with the crank.
Oh, and I got the good old chocolate milkshake when I drained the oil pan.

[patrolman808]

The pistons have 429 stamped on the sides, so I guess it looks like a 429 instead of a 460??

[patrolman808]

The block has the D1VE-A2B casting, which appears to be a 460 from what I can find.

[patrolman808]

Oh, the metal sticking out past the rods was the rod bearing, or what was left of it, and I found another broken ring on the piston with the trashed rod bearing.

[Rampager]

So you have the shorter stroke motor, some guys like that for reving . I prefer the free cubes myself <shrugs>

Ford part #'s tell you the year right away(the D is 70's) and the 1 means 71. Deck shouldn't be too high on that one, Check if its a thick web block or shoot some pics of the webbing area between bores.

What do the rod bolts look like? Square head or football? football shapoed are prefered. freshen her up and get it back together its boatin season not rebuildin season! (ok that may not apply where you live lol)

Ran a super shallow river this weekend that canoeists said we couldn't do, bahahaha I love proving them wrong. we only clipped bottom maybe twice and barely at that. This is in parts that a canoe would have to be carried over lol
God I love having a tin jetboat....

Cheers

[patrolman808]

The rod bolts are rectangle shaped I guess, with a raised center. Hopefully I can get it to the machine shop by the end of the week. It'd be nice to have it back together asap.
Things are kinda shallow around here as well..not too much rain in the last year..