Timeing/flywheel.

[MTN BOATER]

My timing marks seem to be off when #1 is at TDC. I am reading the .462 mark when I'm at TDC insted of the 0 degrees mark on the timing scale that goes from 24 before to 16 after. Is the flywheel on a 2.4 keyed or splined? I am thinking that my flywheel may have been installled a few splines off if it does have splines. Thanks.

[Liqui-Fly]

The inner hub of your flywheel is your trigger and it is impossible to get that wrong because of the key. The outer magnets can be off if the ring was removed from the inner hub but won't noticibly effect anything. Are you sure your pointer didn't move? I think the difference you've descibed would be too small if you were off by one bolt hole.

[Jay Smith]

This is how I index a flywheels that have the index markings machined off during modifications and have no refference points:

1. Establish a stable and steady static referance pointer that will be a constant source of referance of an index.
2. Install one of our TDC dial indicators ( hint hint ) in plug hole #1 with all the plugs out of the motor and the key turned off turn motor clockwise until the dial indicator show futhermost travel up toward the deck of the piston then rotate the gauge basel to exactly 0. Repeat this in a clockwise motion to confirm accurate 0.
3. Mark flywheel directly across from the pointer with a legable line , this is 0 or TDC ( Top Dead Center )
4. At this time rotate flywheel COUNTERCLOCKWISE for .150" or 1 1/2 rounds of a .100" total sweep gauge then stop this represents 25 degrees of timing , mark that spot at this time.
5. Hook up timing light on # 1 plug being carefull to ground out all plugs against the block so that the switchboxes and coils can discharge thier high voltage or thier failure can occur..
6. Next advance the timing arm totally at the foot feed or hand throttle until black bumper on the end of the timing adjustment screw at arm contacts the block boss and turn over the motor to establish total timing..
7. Adjust as nessary to establish wanted timing specs buy loosing and adjusting the 7/16th bolt head bolt and with a phillips head screw driver adjust , repeat several times after adjusting to assure accuracy...

Good luck,

[Z71_SS]

Jay how much for one of them TDC dial indicators

[MTN BOATER]

Thanks Jay for the POINTERS!! The person who had this motor before had unbolted the flywheel and reinstalled it one bolt hole advanced. After figireing this out it timed up real quick.
I am still having a problem with surging when the motor is under load. It feels like it could be a fuel delivery issue, but I'm not sure. It will surge and than pull for a second like it wants to rip and than flatten out kinda boggy. I had the motor pulling 5000 rpm last week and today I could only get 4300. I have jetted down 1 size as I am at high elevation and the plugs still look rich with no evidance of damage. The fuel filter on the powerhead looks nice and clean, but it is not all the way full of fuel. I had my passenger pump the fuel bulb while under power and it did not make any difference. Could I have a bad fuel pump? or maybe a bad coil/switch? Any and all advice considered. Thanks

[MTN BOATER]

What are the symptoms of a failed coil/switchbox?

[Jay Smith]

Failing coils seem to just start not wanting to load back up ready to discharge its full load of voltage at the proper level or simply just fail and yeild no spark at all to me. The motor will run good sometimes at the start of the day and as engine and ambient temps build they seem to start failing by loosing rpms due to plug fouling or mis firing. Most of the time if all other mechanical venues of our race motors are healthy ( leak down OK, good reeds, injectors OK, etc.. ) if the rpms seems to be down I look at coils next. I find most of the time switch boxes that fail will loose the whole side that the signal it sends to either the port OR the starboard will be weak or start to fall out at higher rpms. Sometimes even a compression test that indicates a complete side higher in compression than the other ( after head gaskets have been confirmed to be of the same thickness and heads are of a matched CC ) can indicate a bad switch box because if the switchbox is weak and delivering less spark fire that side will become oily with enburned fuel-oil vapor and an oily bore will yeild higher compression numbers due to the better seal the oily bore will yeild verses one that has a complete burn.Another test for switchbox health is to index ALL spark plugs at 25 degrees and shoot a timing light at all 6 plugs at full advance and see if the timing is not consistant from one to another, if not at the same firing point on all six this can signal either a bad switch box, trigger, and or stator....

This rambling is my opinion and what I have found I'm sure others have thier own testing and forensics methods but these have seemed to work for me in the past....

Good luck,

BTW: Our new JSRE 2" travel dial indicator along with complete instructions included is $50.00 to your door if your a paid S&F 2006 member if your not a member its $50.00 + $7.50 freight

[kingsbiship]

You can find your TDC reference point without a dial indicator. I have
a spark plug that I gutted out and jammed a bolt (could be anything)
thru the threads to make a stop tool. Insert the tool... rotate one way
and mark as the piston comes in contact with the stop tool... rotate the other way and mark. Divide the marks in half, and you have TDC.

[T-REX]

[QUOTE][You can find your TDC reference point without a dial indicator./QUOTE]


U juss a CHEEPO!!!!!!!!!!!...........................Like ME!!

A dial indikator will give ya TDC.........Tha positive stop method will give ya TTDC!!!!..........TRU TOP DEAD CENTER!!.........U CHEEPO

[kingsbiship]

This allows me to put my money to BETTER use... like buying beer!
For sale... Budweiser stop tool!

[nightfisher]

Ok I had the same problem, the flywheel I have didn't have a key. It had a mark that you have to line up, so you if your's dosn't have a key it maybe on wrong. Worth checking anyway.

[Jay Smith]

Yep to heck with a dial indicator , jamming a bolt into the crown of a piston and "FEELING" where TDC is is the most accurate way to do this task ...LOL... Wonder how to accurately check the .150" ( 25" ) timing marks to be correct , maybe a yard stick ........

[T-REX]

Yep to heck with a dial indicator , jamming a bolt into the crown of a piston and "FEELING" where TDC is is the most accurate way to do this task ...LOL... Wonder how to accurately check the .150" ( 25" ) timing marks to be correct , maybe a yard stick ........

Now Pee wee, U no what I'm say'in.....Tha "Jammin a bolt in a piston" iz called a "POSOTIVE PISTON STOP"...Tha one I have for degree'in a cam is a comp cam, and is still sold by Summit(Part # CCA-4795)....It iz adjustable, but a bolt in a sparkplug will do the exzact same thang, but $20 cheeper!!...

Now az fer tha "How accurate" 25* will be without a dial indicator would be, Juss find TTDC, then measure to the left 1 11/16" and mark it...Bet it iz within a 1/2* or less ov bein dead on 25*!!!.....Closer than find'in tdc with a dial indikator!!

Sum people have mo common sense den money, and wit common sense, U kan do what ever ya put ya mind ta doin...Ya determination iz ya limit, NOT YA WALLET!!.....Juss my very unprofessional opinion!!

[j_martin]

So whats's the sideways measurement for us slow az chickens that want to time to 23*?

[Jay Smith]

So TRex (AKA : Fred Sandford) you measure yo timing in inches instead of thousands ??? Sounds accurate to me ....

Sorry Tee I figure that me amd others would choose to be a bit more accurate, forgot bout da junk yard way ...Silly me....

When's ya old molded keester gonna come see me ?

J Martin answeri is .130"