Chine walk help

**Lockjaw** · 05-07-2006, 07:40 PM

I have a 92 18 foot basshawk bassboat, with a 200 OMC on it. It chine walks something awful. I have tried many differnent props and there is a point when trimming the boat, where it starts chining, and it is awful. It also chines when turning at speed.

Any prop or prop work that would tend to reduce it? I have a raker, a renegade, a shooter, a turbo, and another 4 blade of unknown origin.

I know the boat will go faster then it goes, but I can't trim it up to get there, because of the walk. It has a fairly wide pad, probably 10 to 12 inches wide, and it would resemble an M that is stretched out in shape.

The motor is a 97, in great shape, I have a 9.5 inch rapid jack plate, the shaft is 3 to 3.5 inches below the pad. Mounts are tight, steering is dual cable and tight.

Would adding some "back cup" on the prop help?

**hsbob** · 05-08-2006, 09:20 AM

raise the motor. most chime walk is due to the motor being set low. you may need to go to low water pu as well.

**fastercat** · 05-08-2006, 06:15 PM

check your motor mount need solid ones if rubber motor moves boat moves.also sheck your steering for slop if you have slop it will walk.also when driving give the wheel a slit jerk to tork side good luck hope you can iron it out.

**Lockjaw** · 05-08-2006, 09:22 PM

I have come up to the point I lose pressure with my old engine, but, the prop loses bite, and the rpms go up, but speed doesn't.

I 9.5 inches of set back, plus I have the ability to go back 3 more inches.

What prop mod's would help hold at elevated transom heights?

**vector mike** · 05-09-2006, 07:24 AM

Cupping the trailing edge works good.

**ASPB** · 05-11-2006, 08:41 AM

Lockjaw i'm gonna go a different route a say you need more seat time driving that boat thru the chine walk.Performence bassboast run on a small pad and when they are trying to get their best speeds they are running for the most part on that small pad.It's really a balance issue.I say take your time and learn to drive it.

**1BadAction** · 05-11-2006, 08:52 AM

Originally Posted by ASPB

Lockjaw i'm gonna go a different route a say you need more seat time driving that boat thru the chine walk.Performence bassboast run on a small pad and when they are trying to get their best speeds they are running for the most part on that small pad.It's really a balance issue.I say take your time and learn to drive it.

WORD

Seat time is the key. like riding a bike baby.

**Lockjaw** · 05-11-2006, 11:36 AM

Yeah I agree with you on seat time, but there has to be some things I can do to kind of moderate it right? I know this motor is tight, the mounts are tight, everything is good, so what can I do with props or whatnot to help?

My pad is pretty wide, probably at least a foot.

I have driven some boats that walk when you really air them out, but none as bad as this one. I mean its only a matter of time til you get tossed, and a short matter of time at that.

I raised it a little, and will try with my gade some more. It likes a 4 blade better if you ask me, so I may have to have the gade worked a little.

**ASPB** · 05-11-2006, 01:07 PM

Lockjaw,a little seat time works wonders.I had a boat many years ago that put me thru the same thing.Got all kinds if ideas from all kinds of people.One guy that had a bullet told me to learn to drive a performance bassboat.Hurt my feelings to think that i couldn't drive a boat.I took a day and left all my tackle at home and went and learned to drive.After taking my time and trimming it little by little,i learned to feel the boat and drive it.It will get better,just take your time.

**RB in NM** · 05-11-2006, 04:47 PM

I agree, there is no subsitute for proper seat time in a high performance boat... and weight distribution from side to side is equally as important. !

one other thing,,, are you using a hydl or manaul plate?

I bought a Allison with a manual plate. It had uncontrollable chine walk above 65 mph. I am very versed in HP hulls. I had bought it from up north in winter, so the lakes were Ice. I could only run it as I got it home, back south. I had assumed the previous owner had the boat setup well, and he had told me of 90 mph speeds prior to him selling....

Make a long story short, I checked the jackplate. It was 3/4 inch out of Plumb, cocked to one side. The boat crabbed so bad, there was no possible way to control it. I leveled the plate side to side, the problem was gone.

Jus' another thing to check..

Russ

**Lockjaw** · 05-12-2006, 01:23 PM

I checked the plate, and actually got a different one, its a hydrodynamics, and it raises both sides equally. I hated trying to count threads on the the other one I had.

I guess I need to spend some more time in it, and practice. I don't know that I would say its a hipo hull, but, it dang sure has enough power hanging off the back to run better then it does.

You know what, its only been this year that I have been able to get it to chine walk. Before I modded my GT175, and then switched to my Venom "150", it wouldn't. I could trim it to the moon and back. And that is using the same prop(s), so its definitely running faster then it was. For sure.

I am going to get a prop tweeked a little though, so when I do experiment with raising it, I at least have bite. Boy it sure does throw water when its jacked up. HAHA.

**Lockjaw** · 05-13-2006, 10:07 PM

Raised the motor, and I knew immediately when I gave it the gas to get out of the hole, that more height was not the answer. It did fix the chine walking though, I couldn't get enough bite to get up on the pad, so I was 8 mph slower.

So I dropped it some. I could trim up and speed would just drop. It sucked.

**rross** · 05-29-2006, 06:13 PM

Lockjaw - one thing I would go over for sure is weight distribution. I have a Vegas and was having a real difficult time with chyne last year. Buddy of mine suggested I add some extra weight to back left corner, so I put in a extra battery for about 40 more lb's on that side...what a difference. If you have a 24V trolling system you should have all batt's on the same side...cranking and two for your troll motor..just a thought. Also would suggest a 3 blade prop...more even push.

**Hydrasports205** · 06-06-2006, 10:37 AM

Lockjaw - I've found with my sport that it's very sensitive to slack in the steering and load distribution. I've run mine with several props, but the most well behaved prop was a trophy. All but elimated the chine walk, but was about 3mph slower on top than the tempest. If you have any slack in the steering/motor mounts it'll make the boat all but uncontrollable

Don't know what revs you're turning, but my guess would be a 25 trophy might be a winner. I'd definetely try one if I were you.

**pengilly** · 06-06-2006, 08:21 PM

I agree as well with the steering and mounts. I was struggling with my Vegas XT. I had 10" of setback plus whats built in the hull. LW, hoss triton 28 and an RE29 she chined hard and it was impossible to hold it for very long. Finally put in solid mounts and new steering and it was night and day. I think alot of that comes from the motor mounts, but im far from an expert.Ive also heard the trophys are a more forgiving prop to drive.

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