Who in their right mind restores a BAYLINER?!

[home made tunnel]

The epoxy stuffing will AMAZE you as to how much throttle response it adds as well as the increase low end and midrange 'punch'. I did a fair amount of stuffing when I did my engine the first time, doing it again with some more aggressive porting and an overbore and I am adding even more stuffing to get as much as I can. I used the JB Weld and Steel Stick putties. Both areas show no problems after almost two years of heavy use.



Slimm

Attachment 334620Attachment 334621

Hmm - Deff something to think about then. Do you do both sides of the block, or just the side opposite of where the intake goes around the piston skirt?

[FMP]

AS I mentioned earlier you will need to make up an adapter for the TC . You will need to take the WB mount and cut the face off and make up a TC mount, keeping the linkage spacing between throttle cam and roller the same on the bottom carb saves more work.

[FMP]

AS the pic show port side,if you do the transfer side you might take away from the flow into the window. But you could also scallop the bottom of the cyl transfer window and piston on that side , replacing the removed material with stuffing on the starboard side ahead of the window. That could help things but it seems to work better on v blocks .

[home made tunnel]

Lessons learned. Warmed up garage,cold paint (even if thinned), still means the boat is cold and paint comes out like poo. Warm the garage with the heaters and leave it warm for 40 minutes, then use warm paint thinned out and this wet edge paint from Jamestown distributors comes out awesome! I need a few more coats to cover the black you can see on the side showing through. That was my bad planning.

[Slimm]

Hmm - Deff something to think about then. Do you do both sides of the block, or just the side opposite of where the intake goes around the piston skirt?

The 'stuffing' only goes in the crankcase area to reduce the amount of empty air space. When the pistons are on the down-stroke they will compress the same volume of air no matter how big the crankcase area is. By stuffing epoxy in as many places as you can to reduce the crankcase air volume, you force the pistons to compress their same amount of air into a much smaller space, this increases the crankcase pressure (bad in a 4-stroke but GOOD in a 2-stroke), which increases the velocity of air when the transfer ports are opened. The FASTER you can move the air from the crankcase into the combustion chamber, the MORE air/fuel you can move into the combustion chamber. The more air/fuel into the chamber, the more power you can make and in many instances you can make that power more efficiently. In my particular case, I did some minor modifications such as stuffing the crankcase, cleaning up the flash leftover from casting and touching up the exhaust ports and my fuel mileage almost doubled. Went from approximately 2-3 mpg to about 5 and was continuing to get better and make better power the more I fine tuned everything.

I just noticed that I wrote a small book to answer your question, hahahaha. Sorry about that, I'm long winded in person too.


Slimm

[home made tunnel]

The 'stuffing' only goes in the crankcase area to reduce the amount of empty air space. When the pistons are on the down-stroke they will compress the same volume of air no matter how big the crankcase area is. By stuffing epoxy in as many places as you can to reduce the crankcase air volume, you force the pistons to compress their same amount of air into a much smaller space, this increases the crankcase pressure (bad in a 4-stroke but GOOD in a 2-stroke), which increases the velocity of air when the transfer ports are opened. The FASTER you can move the air from the crankcase into the combustion chamber, the MORE air/fuel you can move into the combustion chamber. The more air/fuel into the chamber, the more power you can make and in many instances you can make that power more efficiently. In my particular case, I did some minor modifications such as stuffing the crankcase, cleaning up the flash leftover from casting and touching up the exhaust ports and my fuel mileage almost doubled. Went from approximately 2-3 mpg to about 5 and was continuing to get better and make better power the more I fine tuned everything.

I just noticed that I wrote a small book to answer your question, hahahaha. Sorry about that, I'm long winded in person too.


Slimm

All good information though ! I was thinking of welding in some aluminum plate in lieu of the stuffing. Then maybe drill a tiny hole like in an airplane window to account for the engine heat cycles.... I'll prob get lazy and just stuff it anyway.

Still searching for an outboard dyno in the New England area.

[FMP]

That side of the block and front case doesn't get the heat. The portside area on the block is backed by the water jacket around the ex chest. Don't sweat it, it will stick with prep.

[MegaBaron]

WOW. some raw mind blowing talent i reckon- complete trailer skids up restoration inside of 3 months, alongside another tunnel boat u home built as well and weldin up fuel tank and deckin' heads, cuttin' and bendin' lexan, porting and matching and honin' in the spare time just to name a few-then postin' it all play by play up here in full detail with pics and all.... and all the while carefully balanced with enuf time for your fiberglass model girly ?!?!? truly remarkable budd. You got me beat all to hell i tell ya what... lik-a dam energizer bunny man. . .
took me 3 months just to organize up a spot just to put my boat in the garage!

[home made tunnel]

That side of the block and front case doesn't get the heat. The portside area on the block is backed by the water jacket around the ex chest. Don't sweat it, it will stick with prep.

I'll get that done after I get the motor parts back from the machine shop. Still waiting for the email confirmation that my parts have shipped. I'm thinking they're probably backordered and aren't telling me yet. I'll have to call them today.

WOW. some raw mind blowing talent i reckon- complete trailer skids up restoration inside of 3 months, alongside another tunnel boat u home built as well and weldin up fuel tank and deckin' heads, cuttin' and bendin' lexan, porting and matching and honin' in the spare time just to name a few-then postin' it all play by play up here in full detail with pics and all.... and all the while carefully balanced with enuf time for your fiberglass model girly ?!?!? truly remarkable budd. You got me beat all to hell i tell ya what... lik-a dam energizer bunny man. . .
took me 3 months just to organize up a spot just to put my boat in the garage!

Haha Thanks ! My alarm goes off @ 4:30am, I get to work for 5:30am. Leave work around 3:30, and head to the shop. I get home around 8pm, shower, eat, play with the gf, and then do it all over again. The woman does get upset sometimes that we don't spend enough time together. That's when I have to wine and dine her, treat her for a night on the town, ya know? I enjoy it too, though. She almost beat me bowling a couple weeks ago! Can't let her do that now!!!!

[FMP]

Make sure you measure up those pistons.Let the machine shop do it if you don't have the tool. You want the clearance right .Ask the supplier what they call for and bore and finish hone each cyl to each piston measurement plus the total clearance. Then hand chamfer all the ports before you put it together. Are you going to equal the weights of the rods and pistons?

[home made tunnel]

Stripped a screw so I had to pull it apart more. What do you think I should do with this can? Leave it in or take it out?

Lastly, do they sell solid mounts for this Mercury leg?

[FMP]

That is the Merc tuner, I know about a 7 " tuner is what some of these triple builds have had with the C/F tuner, but it will add on top and take from the bottom.I think that is the same tuner as the used on the Merc 75 -90 triple. One of the dealers on S&F should know about the mounts.

[home made tunnel]

Not much of an update - but some info...

I got the rebuild kit in the mail, and brought all the parts up to the machine shop to bore the cylinders, chamfer the ports, deck the head .035" for compression, and flat face the exhaust side where there was some corrosion @ the spot the gasket failed, and leaked into bottom cylinder # 3.

So the top mount looked OK after I cleaned it up and inspected it. I snapped 1 of the 4 bolts in the Mid, had to drill it out and re-tap it. I couldn't find solid mounts for the top mount, so back in it goes.

I went to put the main tilt/steering tube back in, and snapped the lower O-Ring in the process. So that re-assembly is also stalled until my O-Ring comes in from CrowleyMarine. I had the wrong shipping address when I ordered it online Friday, but luckily they're mountain time, and I caught it this morning when I called up.

I've got another coat or two to put on the sides, And I can probably start rigging and wiring it up.

Still need to buy a rubrail, and still debating painting the motor WHITE or leaving it as-is and not putting all that extra work into it. Need to buy a skeg too, and get that welded on.

[FMP]

don't forget the transfer cover surfaces. Cut them down to bring the covers in tighter. You want them almost bottomed out with the gasket thickness , so take a cover to the shop. Also take a couple thou off the case to block surface.

[home made tunnel]

Started doing a little rigging today. 5200 marine sealant is very sticky! Battery tray, fuel tank rubber strips and tank tie down anchors. Cleats are back on, and rear pole light base. Fuel Filler cap and bilge drain plug are installed also.