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  1. #1
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    Chevrolet AFM delete on new 2019 5.3 silverado

    OK few questions ,will i actually see much diff in MPG.. i have a lead foot and hardly ever hear it switch over, the old 09 i had rarely did it also but it was much more obvious when it did.. Next are the aftermarket plug deletes anygood? or should i have the ecu reprogrammed? When the warranty is out i plan on doing the complete cam/ lifter swap out, it do look like alot a work.. heads and all have to come off to change the lifters i hear so not messing with that yet. Thanks, Dave

  2. #2
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    1. You will see a difference in MPGS mainly on the highway when your just cruising.

    2. I had a handheld tuner on my 2014 mainly for tire calibration, but I did run the regular gas tune for it as well. I have no complaint. You can disable the AFM in the tuner

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  4. #3
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    I yanked the intake and lifter valley off of my '11. Drove a plug in where the filter goes under the oil pressure sending unit that blocks the oil to the "VLOM." Next I broke off the ears of the gasket under the valley cover that seal to the top of the towers that go to the lifters. There's no way oil can pressurize the lifters now.

    Deleted the AFM/DOD with a Superchips tuner. I didn't like the transmission behavior with the "tune" so I'm just running everything stock but DOD/AFM disabled.

    236k or so on it now and no troubles. Stock cam and lifters still installed.

    EDIT: Took me about 3 hours and I didn't replace any gaskets, just popped it apart and slapped it back together! No decrease in mileage, slight increase in oil pressure; it's a 6.2 Denali...
    Last edited by nitro_rat; 04-01-2020 at 09:41 AM.

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  6. #4
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    I have been looking at doing this to my 2014 with 110K. I am told I should not have a collapsed lifter as long as I change the oil regularly. I still hate it and wanted to disable it, but not sure the best way. I am not sure I want to do what Nitro did above, but it is an option.
    1973 Viper - sold
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  7. #5
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    Call tuner company as I heard GM really locked down getting in the ECU?
    Checkmate 2002 Convincor 270 496 MAG-HO

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  8. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjdubiel View Post
    I have been looking at doing this to my 2014 with 110K. I am told I should not have a collapsed lifter as long as I change the oil regularly. I still hate it and wanted to disable it, but not sure the best way. I am not sure I want to do what Nitro did above, but it is an option.
    I had a collapsed lifter and fixed it with this kit as part of the procedure I outlined above. The dude has youtube videos about the procedure.

    https://www.crazedperformancerepair....er-release-kit

    $35 sounded much better to me than thousands for a "proper" repair...

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  10. #7
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    Thanks Nitro!
    1973 Viper - sold
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  11. #8
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    Thanks for the info, this ones new so it will wait for the full cam swap, but going to do the delete. Im all in for budget fixs, my kids honda had a timing chain tensioner fail sounded like a bad lifter noise, honda said like 1200 for the water pump,seals, tenioner and a new chain along with pullin half the front off and that was the only way they would do it, book said this was due at 60k miles car had less than 30k and the tensioner was $70 i removed the engine mount peeled back the cover and snuck it in there in an hour done and no leaks...

  12. #9
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    Well i talked to the local dealer about getting gaskets and he said the 2019 is totally different, they now call it dfm and its all 8 cyls not just 4 probably why its less noticable bc it does any combination of 1-8 not 4 on 4 off. lifters are the same but all 16 instead of 8 and the components(8 solenoids/wires) are in the valley no more manifold in the cover plate. Man more shizit to fail for what 1 mpg freakin epa...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Screen-Shot-2019-06-28-at-2.48.02-PM-300x186.png  

  13. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by H2OPERF View Post
    Well i talked to the local dealer about getting gaskets and he said the 2019 is totally different, they now call it dfm and its all 8 cyls not just 4 probably why its less noticable bc it does any combination of 1-8 not 4 on 4 off. lifters are the same but all 16 instead of 8 and the components(8 solenoids/wires) are in the valley no more manifold in the cover plate. Man more shizit to fail for what 1 mpg freakin epa...
    Same $&!t, pull cover, yank them solenoid thingies out and throw them away...

  14. #11
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    I agree just tryin to find out whats under them and how hard it will be to block off the supply, get it back together and be able to drive to work the next day lol..

  15. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by H2OPERF View Post
    Well i talked to the local dealer about getting gaskets and he said the 2019 is totally different, they now call it dfm and its all 8 cyls not just 4 probably why its less noticable bc it does any combination of 1-8 not 4 on 4 off. lifters are the same but all 16 instead of 8 and the components(8 solenoids/wires) are in the valley no more manifold in the cover plate. Man more shizit to fail for what 1 mpg freakin epa...
    Yep, and also has variable oil pump. Already had to replace harness for solonoid in pump because got brittle and started falling apart on one a couple years old with a little over 100k miles on it. Pretty sure they still using the variable oil pump on the 19’s anyway. Getting it tuned out is a good idea, the lifters actually come apart. If they never deactivate, thinking they should last, being they are performing like a normal lifter. We always get them after they have done took a poop. So I’m just speculating.

  16. #13
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    Thanks for the info guys.. dealer guy said the same do it now, he said this system activates way more often than afm so probably will be more prone to failures...

  17. #14
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    Probably so, they basically send oil to the lifter to activate a locking pin to lock out the lifter and then has spring to keep out slack so it doesn’t tick. Hard to see that flying apart after awhile huh? As long as the pin isn’t activated it’s functioning like a normal lifter. If it was me and all is still good in valve train, I’d just tune it out to make them last, tune is going to have to be modified anyway to prevent check engine light. Also the oil pump variation probably needs to adjusted also with tune, when activating lifters in kicks up the volume, if it doesn’t need the volume with the lifters being blocked the excess pressure is dumped by a valve in oil pan, which can cause spray on bottom of cylinders/ cause aeriation and resulting in oil burning problems. If you decide to open it up, I would just go ahead and change it all over to conventional style, cam and all because of the different profiles of each, which can actually improve power.
    Last edited by FORBESAUTO; 04-02-2020 at 07:33 PM.

  18. #15
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    I have a ‘15 w/55k miles and love it.

    You can not tell when it goes to 4 or back to 8.
    I know others say different but only way I can tell is when light comes on on dash.
    It will get mid 20’s at 55 on level road.

    It takes a cam swap to disable it properly anyhow.
    A tuner won’t do it.
    They offer a kit for it.

    Good syn oil, regular changes, a can of sea foam every few tanks and you should be good.

    Problem comes from carbon build up on open valves, aiding them to stick.
    CRC and others, offer a kit for DFI engines to combat this also.
    Like de-carboning a new/used 2 stroke O/B.

    I ran it through mine and got nothing.
    As in, spotless clean.

    I did the research and choose to like what I have.
    Tons for sale w/way over 100k miles.
    Last edited by Instigator; 04-02-2020 at 08:47 PM.
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


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