Best fiberglass rollers?

[LakeFever]

Now that we're getting the hang of rolling the bubbles out of the 1708 Im noticing my rollers seem crap. We clean them very well but they squeak and tend to hang up here and there not always rolling sometimes skidding which i dont like at all. Is this just the way these things are or are there some brands to buy that work better? I searched quite a bit and didnt really find which brands or maker that stood out as the best way to go.

[XstreamVking]

Get the ones that have a screw at the end so you can take the thing apart and clean it. Deep fins are better. Alum. rollers only, so you can wire brush them. I have rollers that I have used for 20 + yrs. And like everything else, they don't make em like they used too.

[johnmiffco]

agree i also have rollers 20-40yrs old
and rolling structure material like 1708 want larger diameter rollers so resin dont get into the shaft
and deep finned as stated dont want prickly rollers to grab the weave

[LakeFever]

I have the take apart kind, all aluminum with a plastic handle. I did buy a spiked one ( prickly ) that I havent used yet that rolls soooo smooth. It appears to be bushed with brass or bronze it just seems to roll so much better. I'll buy another deep fin one and see how it goes. The one I seem to use the most is 3"w about 3/4" dia.

[XstreamVking]

The pricky ones are for veil mat and .75 oz mat used for the "skin" out. Which is the 1st layer on a mold.

[oldschoolltv]

Built here in Winter Haven and were always great products.
https://www.bodico.com/

[Stoker boy]

The rollers I have are made out of some type of composite material. The rollers are attached to a metal rod. When I’m done I soak in acetone, using it for 20 years never had a problem with it hanging up.

[LakeFever]

^ solid info thanks! I never did order any good ones I switched it up during application instead of brushes to 4” mini paint rollers ( whizz rollers ) and those are now my goto method along with the finned rollers that I have to finish it up. Much less fin rolling required so I’m not as frustrated with the squeaky ones I have now. If I do another resto I will find these composite ones you mention, that sounds perfect. I even thought about drilling the center of mine out and adding a Teflon sleeve bushing but that would take a lot of time I don’t need to waste on this now while the hull build is going solidly forward.

[XstreamVking]

I preferred the metal ones. Never used to worry about cleaning them well when done. Just lit them on fire and burned them clean. Wire wheeled them (spin fast) after that and they roll like they have bearings. Swish them in acetone to flush the soot and perfect. Still have about 20 of all shapes and sizes. From 18'' x1'' to 3''x 1/4''. Also round wheels for radius rolling, and football shaped for interior curves.

[Stoker boy]

[XstreamVking]

I have some of them too. I had to take them apart and clean them everytime I used them. They are nice tho.

[LakeFever]

I only have four, and three are flat, one ball. I could use a bunch of different shapes but I have managed through this build fortunately although it has been a struggle at times. Sometimes I use my hands with gloves and can squeegee the glass down a bit. Messy as hell but it worked

[rjdubiel]

you can also use a torch to get rid of the hard resin if it kicks quick. take the roller off and burn it off.

[Stoker boy]

I have some of them too. I had to take them apart and clean them everytime I used them. They are nice tho.

I let it soak in acetone. I’ve never had to take mine apart. I fill a small container cover it with plastic and leave the roller in there until the acetone evaporates, if I’m not using it quite a bit.

[LakeFever]

I bought a bunch and can say with certainty the type with the screw, is considerably better than the type with the brass nut. The screw type roll a lot smoother and are much easier to assemble/disassemble and clean