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Thread: 2.0 Questions
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10-24-2019, 11:33 AM #31
26 cc on the heads
200 tuner
CCMS or TDR reeds...boysens suck.
WH 39 or 46 carbs..the stock jetting will be close
Solid mounts of course and while your that far a fat tiller shaft from a newer motor. The life you save may be your own. They will pull okay to 6800 on a light boat.
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10-24-2019, 11:48 AM #32
I just found a 2.4 200 tuner local. Trying to buy it now. Is the fat shaft just a thicker drive shaft? Or will it require different yoke setup at the lower and engine?
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10-24-2019, 11:51 AM #33
What will be a safe rpm level for my setup, as in longevity? I'm not a drag racer like you guys lol. I would like to see 6200-6400 though if safe.
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10-24-2019, 03:37 PM #34
I've got the big carbs, I have opened and smoothed my chest, so yes - I plan on mine making good power at 5,500 + and I do plan to turn it 6,200 ~ 6,400 when at full play. I'm not a WOT guy, but this motor is for whatever I want it to do. I'm having my pistons top-pinned and will use brand-new rod cap bolts to factory specs. Not sure what it's going on yet. I thought I wanted it for the GT150 I'd build one day, but now that I have the boat - I realize the limits of this hull to handle that level of performance. The V4 and 140 hp crossflow I'm building will be all that I can handle. With no pad, it needs to stay below 60. Gordon
Last edited by Gordon02; 10-24-2019 at 03:40 PM.
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10-24-2019, 04:08 PM #35
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90 5.0 liked this post
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10-24-2019, 04:10 PM #36
Fat shaft had 19 splines I think. Small 15. wouldnt worry bout lower if it's ok, 6200 6400 fine but if u get it down to 6k u will have good bottom and top , it's a good balance point for blast off and top speed
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10-24-2019, 04:16 PM #37
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10-24-2019, 04:23 PM #38
Sry Gordon. didnt read article
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10-24-2019, 05:18 PM #39
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10-24-2019, 08:06 PM #40
Thanks for the good info guys. What heads can I look for exactly? Will 2.5 heads work or just the 2.0 heads? Thanks
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10-30-2019, 12:24 AM #41'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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TNRoostertail thanked for this post
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10-30-2019, 03:12 AM #42
Is that pressed on? I would prefer the fat arm. The one on my buddies pro max is much beefier like the one on the left.
Respect no wake zones!!! Evinrude guys need a place to race too.
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10-30-2019, 11:26 AM #43
I believe its the entire swivel pin that would need to be changed, not just the tiller are itself.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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10-30-2019, 11:49 AM #44Screaming And Flying!
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and the fat one is from a 3 ram...... the fat ones from a 1 ram are hard to find......the thin ones are fine for boats not flying on the prop shaft.....
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