1979 Viking build

[LakeFever]

I was going to follow tnels front floor style but if you have pics of yours that would be awesome to see what you did there. I’m going to add some seat boxes because seated comfort is more important to me than less wind in my face

[XstreamVking]

I will get the kid to post some pics of it. I made some slick (I think) seat boxes from a simple mold. Very light and very strong. Open under so you can stow dock lines etc. **** Crappy pics on page 4 of the top build thread of the seat bases and the front floor. Foot throttle block. I did glass the bases to the floor and have a slide feature on the seats now. Just saw that I lost the 2nd thread somehow? Damn.....

[LakeFever]

Been chipping away here and there where we can. We got the center stringers cut and started to tab them in with 1708 and cabosil thickened resin. Speaking of resin aside from the priming of the balsa and the fairing csm over the core bond at the edges of the core we have done all lays using derakane and the strength is really becoming apparent now. This thing is rigid.

We added two more lays over the transom. One 1808 and one 1708 so that makes the inside transom skin 4 layers thick and one more tabbed at the edges. Four layers of 1708 and one layer of 1808 in total. We ran the lays well past the transom edge all the way to the corner and intervals in between. We are comfortable now that this transom is good to go.

So far we only have one 4” tab of 1708 tape on one side of the center stringers. We will be adding two tabs per side and two tabs over top of each stringer. I have a formula that works well for estimating resin needs for 1708 and it’s 0.65ml for every square inch of 1708. I’m trying to work out a formula for thickened resin but not having much luck so far. It’s an add what you need method at the moment. A little wasteful but not terrible.

once the stringers are all tabbed in we will be making the front bulkhead stringer and forward floor then it’s gel time.

We are thinking of simple ways to hold the outer stringers in place for bonding to the hull but haven’t really come up with anything we like yet. Any suggestions?

[tnelsmn]

Looking good. What do you plan on using for a plug block, stacking some scrap coosa?

This was a simple way to hold the stringers while they bonded, Uses a bit of wood which is still expensive these days.

[LakeFever]

Thanks. Haven’t done the plug block yet but yes the plan is a couple pieces of coosa. Figured it was best to complete the stringer tabbing in first before we make that piece.

couple other things I forgot to mention I ordered a new sea star xstream jack plate 4” set back and some radio stuff. Speakers and whatnot. I was on the fence with the jack plate consisting three options. Atlas, sea star, or build one. The reason I wanted to build one was to get less set back. I’m pretty sure I could fab one that has an inch or two tops of set back but I just didn’t think I would have the time. There’s already enough projects been shelved while we do the hull. I ended up with the seas star over the atlas because I prefer the look, it matches all the steering I have and I like the smart stick sender with pro tap. I haven’t bought the protap yet but I did get the smart stick and gauge

[LakeFever]

Stringers have two lays of 1708 and cabosil thickened resin fillets. One 4” and one 8” on both sides of each stringer and the same over the top to cap it. One 4” and one 8”. We will be tabbing in the front bulkhead with the same layup inside and out.

Plan is to drill drain holes at the rear of the stringers and one in the center of the front bulkhead. We won’t be drilling drain holes in the side cavities of the front bulkhead, instead we will vent them with a small hole either side through the top rear of the floor. This creates two sealed air chambers in the core area should the boat ever see water it should bob nose up and those two air cavities will be sealed and hopefully float the hull or at least slow down the process.


we were wondering today if it’s even worth gel coating over the core under the floor? Being vinylester which is 100% water proof and so many layers we thought maybe not needed? Knowing me I’ll probably do it anyways but I’m open to thoughts on this

[tnelsmn]

Looks good, Lake! Brings back some good memories of that process of my build. You really feel like progress is being made at that point.

My plug block went in after the stringers were fully glassed in as well.

If vinylester is completely waterproof gelcoat seems un necessary. Just my .02 from a fellow amateur

Tony

[rjdubiel]

I used all glass on the plug. My viper was done the same way. About 1/2 thick at the drain hole of glass then drilled and installed the brass tube.

[LakeFever]

Ya I’m thinking we might just skip the gel under the floor it’s just another step to save time at this point plus it does allow me to keep a close eye on the condition of the core. Consider me convinced. As for this stage we felt like this was a big moment because we are both large size dudes and getting in that awkward slope floor on our knees tabbing that in without stuffing a foot in the resin more than three times ( ok maybe it was four ) it’s sure nice to know the hardest to do lays in the whole build are now done!

as for the drain plug I don’t know why I never thought of that all glass tip. I do have some coosa off cuts which won’t rot and it might be quicker but the all glass approach sounds good too. Definitely will ponder that. Thanks for the tips and encouragement boys.

[LakeFever]

Working on the footwell floor. Marked the center line of the floor, laid out a straight edge to guide the template. Marking and cutting the notch after lunch so Tony if your out there and can reply we'd like to know how high is your center stringer in the footwell? We are going with your design. no need to change whats already ballin

[tnelsmn]

I’m at my side job today. Got a few more hours here before I’m home. I’ll grab some measurements when I get home.

[LakeFever]

We might take a guess, we just had coffee and we are twitchy. Looks like 2-3" tall by eye

[LakeFever]

We split it down the middle. The bulkhead is 6" high so we cut the footwell stringer down to 3". We cut the front floor section out and need to make one rib, the footwell floor, and that will be that for the floor and stringer fab. If you look close at the back of the notched stringer you can see my marker line where the footwell floor will be out to those two marks on either side. We were thinking the one center stringer as shown would be enough for strength but I would really like to hear opinions on this as its simply a guess on our part. We have zero knowledge of what was in here or whats the standard. Im really trying to build a quality hull but also trying to save time wherever possible at this point. I know Tony your hull has three little stringers under the footwell but we have two layers of 1708 under and over the core in this area so maybe thats enough?

Thoughts?

[tnelsmn]

Lake,

Here's a picture of the footwell in comparison to the floor.

The three stringers below my footwell happened mainly because I wanted the two main stringers to be as long as possible. I ended them when they were approximately 1" tall, I figured any less than that was pointless. Thats kinda where they ended up. I had no plans for the center forward stringer initially but was advised to add one by the folks around here. Mine is completely overkill at this point and I believe one in the center will be sufficient to support the footwell.

Tony.

[Hippie459MN]

Ya'll got tiny foot wells. Here is the one in my Vulture. Maybe its cause the vking floor is narrower and lower maybe.