Milling 5250 Rods

[TEXAS20225]

the thick washer were for bottom guide pistons on top guide rod if the 5250 you have have 2 holes drilled at the cap junction they were from the early merc motors

[TEXAS20225]

look im not saying this is not possible because i have even found rods in my tear downs that were this way but ive never ran any nor would i . this what i look at the early 2.0 and 2.4 motors were bottom guide they also had a ton of sideways play in them at the top end of piston which is what allowed the bottom guide to work as bottom guide then this is added you take the .812 thickness of the rod is reduced to .712 at the topto accomodate the piston and then the thin washer off the 2.5 top guide piston is put in so all the sideways play is now gone in a sense making it top guide /bottom guide because nothing has been done to original bottom guide. 812 rod it most likly does work but it is still what im saying peace out the really old man

[Stoker boy]

I don’t know why I am thinking back about 30 years ago before I had ever torn an engine apart someone showed me a crank and said this is for bottom guided because it doesn’t have a heel on the crank or it does I just don’t remember, maybe somebody can clear that up for me. Maybe there’s no difference at all,I am an old man myself, my memory isn’t the greatest.

[TEXAS20225]

if you mean rod journal boss's or center main boss's or shoulder which ever you want to call it ive torn so many blown motors apart in my rebuilding stent its scary!! most 2.0 motors on the mains had plastic cage bearings and the boss's lots of them were nine ring my favorite crank nearly all 2.4 motors had no boss's and steel cages on the center mains, some folks have claimed they run them in 2.5 no problem however ive torn apart several that wiped the whole center section out because plastic cages were worn away because there was no shoulder for it to ride on and eventually turned the bearings loose in thge rotating assembly after over 400 200 efi only rebuilds i earned my badge and to further tell of some things notice the rod bearing journal had different width boss's on them the later style top guide motors had a much narrower boss then the early bottom guide cranks some early cranks were 1 1/2 dia top cap bearing in lots of consumer stuff so you can never say it was like this at all because momma merc made some changes without our permission, and yes age is not kind i can hide my own easter eggs

[Stoker boy]

I was referring to the rod journal. Other than a cracked rod I’ve never had rod bearing failure I caught the cracked rod before it did any damage. I’ve never had any problem with center bearings either. I believe they have a plastic cage with a metal roller bearing encased in a steel housing secured with a alignment pin. I remember the early 260s had I believe eight crank rings and the drag motors had nine crank rings. I know the newer cranks had a larger top cap bearing don’t remember the measurement but I know they’re larger. To the best of my knowledge all the 260s and drag motors were considered top guided. So I guess there must be a difference on the with of the crank journal for top guide and bottom guide. I’ve never worked on anything other than a 260 and a drag motor so I know nothing about other motors, although I do have three or four 2.4s I’ve never torn apart.

[Stoker boy]

[Dave S]

You can't just cut the tops......the bottoms also have to be cut........otherwise the crank will tell the rod where to be...... and the piston will say but my bores say .........not so..........a dissagreement will lead to bearing failure

[TEXAS20225]

Dave thats what i came to on my relativly limited thought process as far as experienced i donot claim to know it all or am i trying to come across as a wise apple i do have some common sense but then common is only common if you have been exposed to it ! Being by nature a cheap skate is something that cost me dearly when i first startd trying to build motors. I thought i had several better ideas that would be cheaper and better that turned out to be so wrong i wont embarress my self be expanding on any of them but i would say after several 100 or maybe even a 1000 tear downs from 1977 150 up to what ever i worked on i started my long slow learning curve not counting plane old consumer motors but several 245 , 260 and a few 280 and all blown most all were rod bearing failure due to lack of oil or heat most all leaving aluminum on the sleeves or skirt seperating from piston and pieces knock holes in front half then they get into bearings or caps and flying around then piece cause rods to snap in half and the shank bayonets the entire middle of the block out in 30 seconds or less or rod cap snaps off or bolt head snaps off or something fails ,the last few years of my rebuild i never bored out any sleeve that had alot of alum stuck on the sleeve if it was 4/7 thousanths out of round i replaced the sleeved due to possible register not making contact with sleeve after it was bored it did get pushed out by alum depostie on sleeve ! make sense?? most block i replaced all sleeves they never came back then ever unless the owner forgets to add oil to fuel after i removed the auto oiler so it just about what you been exposed to

[Chaz]

Yes sir Bobby , it's true . This in here is .018 over and no-touchy everywhere .



It cleaned up @ .0225 , so I turned down a .040 down to .025 over ..

Chaz = been findin envelops and rolls of money in my truck and bedroom lately .. just can't figger out who put em there .. and when ..

[TEXAS20225]

charlie behave

[Dave S]

Sloopy work...ya mill is off set.... any dronk can see that.................Phifft........

[TEXAS20225]

Chaz anyone who knows how to do anything knows what your qualification are !!after looking at your machinework and welding over the years im surprised somebody aint backin you for the president of well i guess what ever country you wanna be president of everything i looked at was just good! really good

[Chaz]

charlie behave

NoooOK Bobby ...

Dave .. I bourt me one of them mills~in~machines what looks like a borin bar .. goes up and down real good .. I just can't make it go side to side .
It do gotz aluminum wheels and air bag suspension .. flip the switch it goes up , flip it the udder way it goes pppfffsssttttttt down .. light bar and .500 Weatherly mag pen holdster ..



Got me one of them bore-jacks .. just droip it inn-a hole wiff a plastic liner .. and pump it skraight ...