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  1. #691
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    I ran mine all summer semi-dry stacked and had no issues with the pump. I have two 1/8" holes drilled to put a small amount of water in the mid.
    1975 Hydrostream Ventura II
    1987 evinrude 200xp

  2. #692
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    Quote Originally Posted by NosBoss View Post
    I ran mine all summer semi-dry stacked and had no issues with the pump. I have two 1/8" holes drilled to put a small amount of water in the mid.
    With can or without?

  3. #693
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    Without the can. I have a bobs exhaust snout on it too.
    1975 Hydrostream Ventura II
    1987 evinrude 200xp

  4. #694
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    Search dry stacking, loads of posts
    https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...ry%20stacking&

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  6. #695
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    I also started up some of the porting I left behind last spring. Areas of attention are transferport entrances and the aim is to reduce turbulece created by sharp edges when the fresh charge is being pushed against the cyl floor and up the transfers.

    Before:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    After (not finished)
    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #696
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    Quote Originally Posted by NosBoss View Post
    Without the can. I have a bobs exhaust snout on it too.
    What size outlet nipples are you using?

  8. #697
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain75 View Post
    What size outlet nipples are you using?
    I cannot remember. The boat is in storage so I can't look at it. I want to say I used 3/4" hose for the dumps.
    1975 Hydrostream Ventura II
    1987 evinrude 200xp

  9. #698
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    The ones I've done i taped the adapter 1/2 pipe threads on each side which is about 7/8.. used barbs with no less than 1/2 I/D and used 5/8 hoses routed up and over the top of the heads and out this forces the block to fill before it can dump out overboard, worked for me doing it on my current build too..

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  11. #699
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    well I have read loads of different topics on the dry stacking and still nothing to prove any increase in performance ?

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  13. #700
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    Quote Originally Posted by phillnjack View Post
    well I have read loads of different topics on the dry stacking and still nothing to prove any increase in performance ?
    From what I have read into this, the big gains are if you really push the motor into high rpm's like 7500+. Beside that, most just like the way the exhaust sounds when its dry. I have read a few claims that it responds a bit better on low end but not much if any top end gains noticed.

    This is what I have read here, and not my personal experience.

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  15. #701
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    Hello!
    Porting going forward, trying to grind a bit every now and then.
    Will soon be finishing up by honing the bores to the specs I got from racer earlier in this thread.
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	431101All entrances smooth and blended to the cyl floors.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Half way up the transferducts there is a severe mismatch and some very rough areas. All that has now been removed and the boost and transferducts are now really smooth. Hopefully this will eliminate a lot of turbulence and thereby add noticeable power...
    Last edited by Captain75; 02-15-2019 at 04:41 PM.

  16. #702
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    Food for thought:

    During all this time grinding on this block I can’t really let go of the idea of adding another set of fingers between the exh and main transfers. But, considering the amount of time invested in this block I don’t fell like gambling...
    I found this pic on the net, as a part of a high-end tuning package for a Yamaha Blaster (I think..)
    The slots are fed through holes in the piston, just like an O/B.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    There must be someone in this community who have tried something similar on a 2stroke O/B!?
    Does it work(add power)? Or does it promote short-circuiting of the fresh charge? If it works, there is definately enough room, at least on an OMC looper!

    Ideas?

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  18. #703
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    I don't have a block in front of me but 99% sure you will get into a water jacket grinding fingers there.
    Quartershot T-3R 15" 3.5L E-Tec 1.62 Sportmaster


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  20. #704
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    Ouch

  21. #705
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    Some final adjustments remaining before final hone and reassembly:
    I have worked alot with the bad casting inside most of the transfer ducts. Most of the imperfections has been removed, although some of the ducts have small areas that can’t be grinded smooth and needs to be filled instead to prevent turbulence.
    In the pic below I tried to explain the troublesome area (due to a crack in the casting mold!?)
    The question is can it be filled with the putty type JB, or the standard slow setting?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	433655Which one? Is the putty good enough? (Easier to apply)

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