OPINIONS PLEASE....Pontoon Boat Log Sealing!

[WillySteve]

This product is a totally waterproof, hard but yet flexible polyurethane coating.
I don't keep the boat on the water usually over a few days running however I have no doubt that it will do an exceptional job in not only sealing but protecting these logs and the weight of the coating will no doubt be lighter than running around with 10-20 gallons of water on the inside!.
Also it can be had without the texture like used on a bedliner which makes it a smooth coating.

I actually plan to remove the carpet from my Bullet's trailer and coat the bunks with this stuff to prevent them from holding water soaked carpet against the hull which will eventually causes fiberglass to bubble. That boat is in and out of the water at least 250 times a year so the bunks stay wet!
The textured stuff works well on bunks by giving small air pockets for the water to dry quicker!

[olboatman]

Willy The last couple of trailers I restored I used PVC lumber (Azek) on the bunks. The last one I cut shallow V cuts down the pvc bunks to allow water to drain as you said. BTW I have been using Azek for all the exterior trim on my houses (and additions) for 15yrs or so and I follow most of my work (for upgrading) and have yet to see ANY degragation at all. Gary

[WillySteve]

OK Guys, I have the Toon primed with an Etching primer and the $700 worth of light grey, "Smooth" Bed Liner goes on tomorrow!!!!
I'll certainly let you know the consequences!!!!
BTW, 5 gallons of bedliner, (IF I HAVE TO USE IT ALL on this 2-Log 24 footer), will only add 40 pounds of actual weight which is nothing on a 24' Toon!

[WillySteve]

Here's the problem I'm trying to fix!


AND, here's the boat with it off the trailer setting on 4x4's between the bunks and the keel guards where I can get to the bottom!


And Here's why I'm fixing this 1993 model Toon....You just can't buy one any cleaner!!!!


Here's the best way I know to help keep the Front Strakes from work hardening and cracking away from their welds....which WILL happen in time!


AND, last but not least.....Here's how to add 5-6mph to yer toon and stop the surging you get from hitting waves which spray up against your crossmembers!!!!
Fiberglass Wall Board, self tapping screws and start from the back and work forward!!!!

[olboatman]

Willy is what you used under the deck that you call fiberglass wallboard actually FRP ( fiberglass reinforced panel) that is bubbly on one side? Also is that 3M 5200 in black you used on the front strakes? Just interested cuze I am always thinkin out of the box for repairs. And your rite she is really clean! Thanks Gary

[WillySteve]

Thanks Gary!!!
Yes, the wall board can be had at Lowes, it's around 1/16" thick, (never measured), and it's the bubbly on one side!
I've had it under this boat going on 4 years so I'm figuring it's gonna stay awhile longer but at the cost, and the better ride plus fuel savings it can always be redone, plus it's never in the Sun so it works out pretty good!
That Black stuff is JB Weld. Those front strakes work harden and crack just outside of the welds so it's important to spread the JB out on the fin area! The strakes certainly get noticeably firmer after it dries and my thinking was to put the JB down and then the bed liner afterwards which should not only cover the ugly but really hold them!!!!

[fatherb68]

that flexi-seal stuff works great. we used it on the roof of one of my box trucks years ago. not a drop.

[W2F a V-King]

This product is a totally waterproof, hard but yet flexible polyurethane coating.
I don't keep the boat on the water usually over a few days running however I have no doubt that it will do an exceptional job in not only sealing but protecting these logs and the weight of the coating will no doubt be lighter than running around with 10-20 gallons of water on the inside!.
Also it can be had without the texture like used on a bedliner which makes it a smooth coating.

I actually plan to remove the carpet from my Bullet's trailer and coat the bunks with this stuff to prevent them from holding water soaked carpet against the hull which will eventually causes fiberglass to bubble. That boat is in and out of the water at least 250 times a year so the bunks stay wet!
The textured stuff works well on bunks by giving small air pockets for the water to dry quicker!

Just curious about coating your bunks with the textured bed liner material.... Would it inhibit the sliding on and off of your boat at launch?
The bed liner paint I've seen is pretty grippy.

Good luck with your coating the toons! Should work great!

[V-bottom]

I have considered just applying a 2 part polyurethane clear coat or perhaps a light grey colour or a 2 part epoxy that I could just roll on. I am in the process of adding a centre tube to mine. I will now have a new shiny centre tube and 2 outer tubes that sort of look like yours.

[WillySteve]

I have considered just applying a 2 part polyurethane clear coat or perhaps a light grey colour or a 2 part epoxy that I could just roll on. I am in the process of adding a centre tube to mine. I will now have a new shiny centre tube and 2 outer tubes that sort of look like yours.

Epoxy went through my mind also but I feel it would be too brittle. Those logs on mine take a beating from trees and stumps as we fish from it, so the coating needs to be somewhat flexible.

[V-bottom]

Epoxy went through my mind also but I feel it would be too brittle. Those logs on mine take a beating from trees and stumps as we fish from it, so the coating needs to be somewhat flexible.

I felt that the aluminum tube shouldn't be flexing that much so why should the paint need to flex. I think if you are hitting logs there is no coating that can withstand the impact without getting scratched which in turn leads to paint peeling. I considered just using a tremclad or armour coat type paint from the big box stores that can be used over aluminum but figured it would not last as long as 2 part polyurethanes or epoxies. I don't want to use a cheap quality paint and then have to strip it off to start over again. Have you considered any of the anti fouling bottom paints used on cruisers and sailboats? That stuff is supposed to be quite durable.

[WillySteve]

Yes, I have considered the bottom coat but because it continually washes off to keep the algae off the bottom of the boat it wouldn't last long setting on wet trailer bunks scrubbing away at it.
As far as the flexing, the tanks don't flex it's the dings and the bumping when they hit something as in trees, docks and the worst in the trailer. I've set and watched tanks bend and pop back out from loading crooked, esp on a really windy day when some people attempt to load it sideways!! lol

BTW, Have you ever tried to remove a portion of a spray-on bed liner? I once broke 17 knives, 3 screwdrivers and dulled 2 chisels trying to get to the truck bed bolts!

[V-bottom]

I hear ya. Let me know what you end up using on your tubes.

[delawarerick]

Epoxy we had no luck with and we tried them all. I am interested to see how this project pans out. Like I said before in salt we always wound up changing the logs. Biggest problem was the bottom paint not put on right or scrapes that put the paint onto the hull and when it hit salt water electrolysis set in and pin holes everywhere. thanks Rick

[WillySteve]

I hear ya. Let me know what you end up using on your tubes.

3 coats of Durabak "Smooth" Light Grey today! It took 1-1/2 Gal so far to get to here on 25" x 24' long logs!
I'll prolly add more tomorrow if the weather lets me and then the clean-up begins!!