How thick is your floor?

[ADDvanced]

Just curious... I have some 3/4 laying around, but was contemplating going lighter. Then I looked at plywood prices.... jessssuusssssss.

[Pulse186]

Use the 3/4, pretty sure that is what is in my checkmate.

[FUJIMO]

...depends on how its supported underneath but 1/2'' non non-wood core with 1708 biax top & bottom is more than enough in smaller boats. pyhi access holes or other access to reach underneath & 1708 bond it to the longitudinal stringers & transverse stringers where possible...

[hydroViper235]

No floor

[Whaaaaat]

Didn't you claim to have the biggest @$!# on this whole site in another thread. Surely with a tool that size flopping around you'll need to skip wood and go straight to steel floors.

[CUDA]

Neither my 84 or 85 SST ever had a floor, real lite weight boats, because of those big tunnels, my drivers seat has always been in the center low

I ordered my race boats with the rear seat from the inboard version, here's a old picture...

You can see the big 4 inch fill tube/cap

[ADDvanced]

I'm definitely going to run a floor or I someone is going to snap an ankle or lose teeth, lol.

I ran 1/2 across my tunnels and threw a 2x6 with some shims under it to simulate a stringer, but it still felt realllllll flexy. I know glass would stiffen it up some but I'd had to get done and have it not be stiff enough (heh). Might go with 3/4...

other thing to consider is the seats need to screw into the tops of the tunnels; so thickness is required for thread engagement. I guess I could predrill holes and use T nuts from the bottom, then put a sacrificial bolt in them when I'm glassing htem in, remove the bolt and have a nice threaded section to bolt the seats into.

[CUDA]

One layer 1708 is = to 1/2 plywood in strength.

The span is pretty narrow.

[Turtleherder]

3/8 plywood, one layer of 1708 with extra strength resin.

[ADDvanced]

if I went to 1/2.... then if my googling is correct, that is a weight savings of 30+ lbs. Hrm.

[David - WI]

I used 1/2" NidaCore... glass on both sides. Can't find my notes right now but it was less than half the weight of 1/2" plywood when it was done.

[Pulse186]

if I went to 1/2.... then if my googling is correct, that is a weight savings of 30+ lbs. Hrm.

A flexy floor to save 30 pounds or a solid floor to not save 30 pounds, personally I don't think the boat will be faster or slower either way. But I plan on buying an aluminum anchor and a manual set back jack to save weight on my progression so what do I know, lol!

[ADDvanced]

I used 1/2" NidaCore... glass on both sides. Can't find my notes right now but it was less than half the weight of 1/2" plywood when it was done.

I can't do foam. The floor panels sit right against the tunnels, so there is no opportunity to use bolts, and threads won't hold. Has to be wood or coosa and I can't afford to do the whole thing in coosa.

[CUDA]

Nida Core is honeycomb lightweight plastic sheets, you can buy many thickness's plain or pre made

I know someone that used it in his transom with carbon fiber and mat between layers of Nida Core. light and strong and cheap

Many people seam to think you need a strong board to make a strong something, like most of the strength comes from the substrate,

when in fact the strength is from the covering said piece with glass/ carbon...

many stringer systems are just foam.

Todd D got run over last race in super stock offshore It's a 29 tunnel, he cut a 8 ft section out and it was feather light, he uses a special $$$ type of carbon with $ epoxy, crazy light and strong, until another 30 ft boat runs over you at 100MPH

most of your strength comes from what your wrapping the foam, honeycomb whatever with.

Home made https://youtu.be/kdImDPTMHb8

[CUDA]

https://www.marine.com/store/c/796-NidaCore.html