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Thread: Looper exhaust porting
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11-22-2013, 05:38 AM #1
Looper exhaust porting
If I make my exhaust ports (bridgeport looper)wider, would that make low end torque suffer?
I want to shape them like a letter "L", turned upside down...
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11-22-2013, 09:35 AM #2
If you just widen them, you'll make everything better. Just don't raise them unless you know exactly what you're doing.
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11-22-2013, 12:00 PM #3Scream And Fly VIP
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.150 wider at the top and taper to orginal at the bottom but unless you do the right intake work it will not add any power
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11-22-2013, 12:28 PM #4
Thanks Racer!, will do that!
The right "intake-work" are you referring to changes in duration on transfer/boost ports?
I have already cleaned the intake mainfold up - taken away all sharp corners and added CCMS reeds. What is your opinion on shaving the heads? Boat is appx 2200lbs, prop is 22"raker, boat mainly used for skiing and recreation, no long wot-runs, maybe a minute max. I want to be able to use 91octane.
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11-22-2013, 10:15 PM #55000 RPM
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11-24-2013, 02:20 AM #6
A couple of questions;
.150 must be like 4mm, anyone to confirm?
still trying to learn the inch system...
When you guys write .150, you mean 0,150 of an inch -right?
Any good tricks concerning cleanup after porting and honing?
compressed air, what else?
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11-24-2013, 09:56 AM #7Screaming And Flying!
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reverse the water flow, hotter chest and therefore faster exhaust gas speed, maybe get the same result?
then you might need to do a hot hone to ensure the exhaust runner expansion is allowed for?
might need to add a water outlet on the top of the chest as well...just dreaming here...
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11-24-2013, 01:28 PM #8
About cleaning, how do you guys get all the metalflakes away when porting is completed - hot water?
another thing; good webshops? My recent purchases were from boats.net, any other good/cheap stores out there?
a third thing; can a "bobs exhaust snout" help prevent bogging when throttled up?, I am using a raker 22" with about 10mm ventholes. I have already drilled through the two holes in the mid, all the way into the exhaust cavity, improved the idle a bit. Now I want do a more aggressive exhaust mod in order to get rid off the of idle bogging. - Some more noise is ok, but not too much... Drilling above the anticav plate seems to be begging for to much noise!?
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11-24-2013, 02:12 PM #9
Just to confirm your conversion 0.150" equals 3.81 mm .
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11-24-2013, 02:13 PM #105000 RPM
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I ordered some parts from boats.net in August. I received a letter from them in October telling me that they found mal-ware on the checkout section of their website, which may have been on their since January. I had my credit cards replaced even though nothing looked out of the ordinary. I had ordered parts from them in April and did have 4 or 5 charges that we're not mine during the next month. I had to change cards after that as well.
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11-24-2013, 04:58 PM #11
Cleaning... Hot hot water with degreaser/dawn soap everywhere until you think it is clean enough. Then do it two more times. Pressure wash if you have one. Then immediately lightly coat all the steel sleeves with the oil you plan on running. It can never be too clean.
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11-24-2013, 05:32 PM #12
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11-24-2013, 06:04 PM #136000 RPM
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I just stick my stuff in the dishwasher when the old lady is at work. It comes out clean.
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11-26-2013, 05:59 AM #14
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11-26-2013, 10:36 AM #155000 RPM
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Is that 2mm wider for each window or 4mm?
1975 Hydrostream Ventura II
1987 evinrude 200xp
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