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09-16-2021, 02:16 PM #31Member
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havent posted but i havent gotten any further because the guy on ebay sent me the wrong jets, instead of 3-63d's, he sent me 1-63D, and 2-64s trying to get the correct jets seems to be impossible, guess my next attempt is to find correct drill bits and ream out my current jets, i will post any updates i encounter
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09-16-2021, 02:52 PM #32Scream And Fly VIP
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Please dont drill the jets.
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Instigator liked this post
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09-17-2021, 09:11 AM #33
Like racer said .. dont.
Seems like 63d were in demand i just looked and all mine are sold over 125....ill look to see if i have any in my dont sell set later.
I would try running the 64s (in all) dont drill them..a litte rich is better than a screwed up jet..more likely to end up bigger and they dont flow the same when drilled.. im sure you've read by now about drilling.. Racer has explained plenty of times.LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON
Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh
'84 Checkmate Convincor
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09-18-2021, 12:07 AM #345000 RPM
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I have a few 63's and 65's but they are D's (for metal carbs) not C's for the composite, although they seem to both be 1/4-20 thread. Never could figure that one out!
The only time I can get these v4 and v6 loopers to sneeze is if the cam roller is touching the throttle cam, causing the plates to be open at idle. probably a deeper jet issue just my 2 cents! someone was screwing around with them. I do have 2 v4 looper carb sets for a 130/140 as well. i'm sure all stock jetting.
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09-18-2021, 12:10 AM #35
The looper plastic carbs use d jets
LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON
Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh
'84 Checkmate Convincor
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09-18-2021, 05:54 AM #36Member
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09-23-2021, 07:59 PM #375000 RPM
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let me take a look. i assume you want the ones from the 140hp as the 135hp used completely different carbs (of course looked the same on the outside) that, along with the 130hp, made then run way smoother and increased the running quality but not 100% sure they'd be ok on your 140hp. maybe Racer can chime in...
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09-24-2021, 03:43 AM #38Member
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well i really just need the 63D jets...
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09-28-2021, 08:11 AM #39Member
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on a good note i was able source 4 brand new 63D jets from Brys Marine in New Jersey, they should be here today or tomorrow and when they do i will put the carbs back together, lync and sync and post my results...
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09-28-2021, 07:00 PM #40
Great motor, great classic project.
Take your time and sneak up on it and you will have something.I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.
I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.
Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II
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joeymcgovs liked this post
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10-03-2021, 06:02 AM #41
yep would be fastrak if after 91
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10-14-2021, 09:06 PM #42Member
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Helloo all, so i finally have an update!! since the last time i posted ive: rebuilt all 4 carbs, reset all floats as all 4 were incorrect, installed all the correct jets as per OMC service manual, replaced all 4 recirculating valves as all 4 were leaking, i also put 4 new cdi electronics coils with wires on because I had them. engine took a little bit to get her started and idling, but once warmed up seem to idle fine, however she would die randomly and starting her back up even when warm was a little troublesome, had to use the rev lever on the control box to get her started even when warm... however when running seemed good, no more "sneezing" so off to the water we went!
on the water, she fired up and idled good, had to use the rev lever on the control box to get her fired up, when i never really had to do that before but anyway, cruising through the harbor was good, rpms stayed consistent, and the engine sounded great, no more "sneeze" like i had before, got to the 5mph buoy and i gave it full throttle, from about a slow cruising 2,000 rpms. boat took off! rpms straight to 5k! stayed at 5k for maybe about 10 seconds and then all of a sudden the engine just kicked in, like the gate to hell opened and shot up to 6k rpms! it felt great!! i couldnt be happier... although it was short lived... i was going so fast and didnt expect the power band i experienced so i pulled back on the throttle, brought it back down to about 4k and cruised for about 5 seconds then gave it full throttle again, but could only achieve 5k.
although at 5k, it does feel great, no stumbling all is smooth, engine doesnt feel rough or shakes at all, even when i bring it back down to idle speed on the control box it seems ok, but once i put it in neutral she wants to die, almost feels like the idle needs to be raised a bit although sometimes itll idle for a while in neutral and never die.... however, not sure why that one instance i was able to get up to 6k rpm and probably more, not sure if my fuel pump isnt sufficient? maybe torn diaphram? or if its electrical and the power pack is not letting it go past 5k rpms? it was just odd how everything worked 100% for that instance but the rest of the hour i was out there i couldnt get it to repeat that awesome-ness... i even tried pushing the key in when at 5k, but it would just make the motor bog down, which i was told is good news.. all in all i think i am in the right direction, hopefully you guys will read my tremendously long posts and share some knoweldge... all is much appreciated
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10-14-2021, 09:17 PM #43Member
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here are videos of parts of the water test
https://youtu.be/YEjnYQ9JXt8
https://youtu.be/C_ld57GwCFg
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10-15-2021, 01:11 PM #445000 RPM
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check your timer base movement, and make sure no leads can hang it up. the quickstart automatic advance completely negates the need to give it throttle when starting aka you shouldnt have to do a thing but bump the key a few times to prime, then start it up. check pickup timing and synch n link. the clear sleeve is on the cam roller and all plates closed at idle correct?
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10-15-2021, 01:43 PM #45Member
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Revenge, thank you, i dont recall a clear sleeve on the cam roller.... the plates are closed at idle, i will try the lync and sync again, when i ohm test the timer base, one of the wires i get no resistance on, but if i turn the engine on and then shut it off, re test the same two wires i then get a resistance reading.. mayne the timer base is bad?
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