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  1. #46
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    Going to hijack NZ's thread again. Maybe he can tell me if I messed this up?

    In the process of changing out the clutch on a c4 non-ratcheting lu to make it ratchet. This is what I've found with the parts I have at hand. As seen in this picture, the propeller shaft has shorter clutch splines on the non ratchet c4 case. It also has a cut for indent balls the full circumference.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is a bit of a issue with the ratcheting clutch I had, part # 78959, off a early 80's case. The splines inside this clutch are only half the length of the non ratchet clutch. Which I didn't like for reverse engagement. And was even a little sloppy in forward gear.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    So I ordered a different clutch. Unfortunately there is no part number on it, but was listed on ebay as a 67887, 78959, or 823174???? The last number is what I found when looking at the part diagrams for the last generation of ratchet cases. This clutch has full internal splines, a non threaded cross pin, and two indent balls.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I also found the propshaft that came with the c4 case is cut deep enough that it will accept the longer ratcheting clutch actuator, part number 816520, or 79911a. This part (or some iteration of it), and its associated small parts are necessary for this swap.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    C4 propshaft with a ratcheting clutch, and actuator rod.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by OnPad; 06-21-2024 at 08:33 PM.

  2. #47
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    I'm not sure.
    Most of my parts are salvaged from parts motors.
    For yrs I've bought up wrecks

  3. #48
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    I got it all put back together, and it ratchets, albeit a little rougher than the cases I have with actual ramped gears. If I ever get around to it, I'll try this one without a nosecone, and install a transom mount lwp.

    Thanks for starting the thread!

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  5. #49
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    Here's the Yamaha drag with a Ballistic Michigan Wheel cut.
    Pushes the Sidewinder to 73mph.Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #50
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    Here's the Yamaha drag with a Ballistic Michigan Wheel cut.
    Pushes the Sidewinder to 73mph.Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	537703Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 11-03-2024 at 01:35 AM.

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  8. #51
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    Good job with home brew short shaft!

    On a another note. A 3 liter ramped clutch dog fits the 2.5 prop shaft, but has no provision for indent balls. Otherwise it is the same exact dimension as the 2.5 part. I believe it will also work to make a non ratchet 2.5 case,..ratchet.

  9. Thanks David - WI thanked for this post
  10. #52
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    I've not had any experience with 3.0L stuff.
    Having no indent balls sounds scary at first, but I suppose it would be ok.
    I would probably be much more careful about my linkages because they would be all that stops the gearbox from rattling into gear.

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  12. #53
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    I haven't messed with the 3 litre lowers either. When I was looking for parts a few months ago, I noticed a bunch of 3L clutch dogs in new condition on fleabay. Picked one up for $15 with the intent of possibly drilling it for indent balls if it was the same dimension. Tried a file on the clutch before drill bits, and they are hardened. I don't think a drill would work without annealing first. The older style spring loaded actuator rod is the item that is hard to find, and brings top dollar in the used market.

  13. #54
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    Old style slotted actuator rod?
    I'm about to machine one from a chrome moly socket set extension bar.
    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 11-03-2024 at 08:22 PM.

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  15. #55
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    Yeah, the slotted one.

    You're pretty handy!

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  17. #56
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    Trained as a fitter, turner, welder.

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