How to verify water is getting to rectifier.

[Brannon]

Hello all, I have a 94 200 Venom that's been pretty extensively modified. I've had a run of bad luck with rectifiers in the past year or so. I have went through 3 of them in the last 3 trips to the lake. The last trip with a new rectifier and it overheated, shorted, melted the power pack and caught fire. So its been an eventful summer to say the least. I have determined that its lack if water pressure. I have a new rectifier, power pack and complete water pump kit on the way, but I want to verify that I am getting water up to the top of the block to keep the rectifier cool. Is there a port on the top side I can use for the gauge? Right now its in the usual spot where the mid section bolts to the engine.

[H2OPERF]

what's been done to the cooling system? are the thermostats still in? what's ur water pressure? You can drill a hole with an R size bit just forward of the rectifier and tap it 1/8 pipe for a 90deg hose barb, this way you can see if your getting a lot of air in the top of the block. The problem with that system is when there's not much power draw on the boat side... the regulator section works its ass off to deal with the stator output especially if your motor turns up way past 6k, unlike an alternator that just pulls back the field power and the voltage drops.

[racer]

If you are having that much of an issue time to also change the battery and make sure it is a wet cell battery. Odds are if you were not getting water to bottom of regulator you would also be over heating

[Brannon]

what's been done to the cooling system? are the thermostats still in? what's ur water pressure? You can drill a hole with an R size bit just forward of the rectifier and tap it 1/8 pipe for a 90deg hose barb, this way you can see if your getting a lot of air in the top of the block. The problem with that system is when there's not much power draw on the boat side... the regulator section works its ass off to deal with the stator output especially if your motor turns up way past 6k, unlike an alternator that just pulls back the field power and the voltage drops.

Cooling system has not been modified since block was modified several years ago. Thermostats are still in but the water pressure almost non reading at idle and 10-15 while running. I haven’t ran the boat hard in a while. We usually cruise about 4700-5000 RPM with the occasional 6000-6300 blip. The water pump hasn’t been changed in 5-6 years. So I’m fairly confident that’s the main culprit. I just want to make sure I don’t burn up another rectifier. The last one literally lasted less than 1 hour of total run time.

[Brannon]

If you are having that much of an issue time to also change the battery and make sure it is a wet cell battery. Odds are if you were not getting water to bottom of regulator you would also be over heating

I changed the battery at the first of June. I had a maintenance free battery in last year and thought my stator was bad since I had no spark. But after throwing parts at it I was able to get it to fire. Then fast forward to this year and I had same “no spark” issues. After reading several posts on here I picked up a group 27 1000CCA wet cell and it fired up after about two revolutions.

[Bodhi]

Cooling system has not been modified since block was modified several years ago. Thermostats are still in but the water pressure almost non reading at idle and 10-15 while running. I haven’t ran the boat hard in a while. We usually cruise about 4700-5000 RPM with the occasional 6000-6300 blip. The water pump hasn’t been changed in 5-6 years. So I’m fairly confident that’s the main culprit. I just want to make sure I don’t burn up another rectifier. The last one literally lasted less than 1 hour of total run time.

Certainly change the waterpump to start, (that'll be a nice pain in the ass job) and while the lower is down check the grommets at each end of the brass tube to make sure your not just losing all water pressure. Next would be the vernotherms (evinrudes fancy name for thermostats) either replace or check in hot water to make sure they are functioning.

[MattGreen]

Thermostats are still in but the water pressure almost non reading at idle and 10-15 while running.

You definitely need to get that sorted out - that is low for a looper. Do you have a nose cone with low water pickups ?

You were lucky on the rectifier that caught fire and only melted the pack - I have seen entire powerheads burnt up from this - cowl and all. Not pretty.

Matt

[XstreamVking]

Rectifiers hate loose, crappy or corroded wires and connections. Just my experience with them...

[CVX20SPRINT]

I'd like a cure for this too.Gone through a couple on my 200 XP that I've only had for 3 years.I did have a bad ignition switch that I never noticed until the last one went.Hoping that was the problem.Reading these posts though maybe I should add more load for the charging system.Huge stereo and Amp maybe.lol.

[mrichartz]

Like they said tap it and put a fitting in etc...I had one catch on fire like 15 years ago since then..I tap and run a hose so I know it bleeds out any air and fills.
On my motors now I took out the blow off(97 blocks) and made a cover w a fitting tapped and ran the hose out so I could see easily when I turn around.

What was done to your motor?
James Perry built it?
He did all the machining..porting pistons etc on both of mine.

[Brannon]

Mrichartz, yes James built mine. And it’s been a absolute BEAST. I have nothing but good things to say about Mr. Perry.

Do you have any pics of the fitting and hose you tapped in? Did you connect it to the gauge or just use it as a second pee hose? I’m curious about how y’all have ran that setup.

[mrichartz]

Mrichartz, yes James built mine. And it’s been a absolute BEAST. I have nothing but good things to say about Mr. Perry.

Do you have any pics of the fitting and hose you tapped in? Did you connect it to the gauge or just use it as a second pee hose? I’m curious about how y’all have ran that setup.

The pic is before I finished hadnt tapped and installed the 90 at the blowoff..looking for a pic..
But I just tap and install a 1/8 npt 90 and a hose and run it out the cowl it's a separate hose
And also tap and istall a npt 1/8 90 on top of both sides at top of cylinders..each one gets a separate hose..
So there's three...
I don't use a gauge on that because I want it to bleed all the air out...
I do have water pressure gauges in the reg spot tho.

[H2OPERF]

If you haven't messed with the cooling system the block should stay full, the water pump is due that's for sure. I hate the pisser location from the factory... it should be from the top of the block but they never would listen to any one in the field and that's why they are all out of work. Depending on the regulator you have there is room to put the fitting right on the regulator but you will have to do it again if you have to change it out. like was said before some will put barbs and hoses just forward of the head right at the angle near the top. Kinda user option there, i have block temp and 2 head temp sensors on a 3 position switch so you can see the 3 temps on 1 gage just not all at once. the block temp reads the water exiting to top fitting.

[H2OPERF]

Tee with temp sensor, water flows over sensor on the way out..

[Brannon]

Here’s some pics. I’m guessing the most practical place to tap a 1/8 90 is at the circled area?

Also. Is this the normal look for a over heated regulator?