Ideas on Mercruiser 260, 1980 - Good idle under load, high in neutral, and shift prob

**CanyonDoug** · 04-27-2017, 06:13 AM

UPS ground is not as efficient as fedex ground, as I suspected. Stay tuned.... Expected to arrive today, but day is fairly full. Will let you guys know... Keeping my fingers crossed. But will still be checking timing next.

**CanyonDoug** · 05-02-2017, 07:29 PM

Originally Posted by CanyonDoug

UPS ground is not as efficient as fedex ground, as I suspected. Stay tuned.... Expected to arrive today, but day is fairly full. Will let you guys know... Keeping my fingers crossed. But will still be checking timing next.

Carb is back in. Took it out yesterday and initially had to raise idle to get 600-700. Held beautifully, ran like a champ and shifting issue is all but gone. With idle now rock-steady, I can see and feel that the linkage may need a tad of adjustment or more likely replacement. Or maybe the shift delay switch needs a little more stroking or replacement. only a couple times did it die, but felt like linkage had not fully and cleanly disengaged and thus hung up on the delay switch or something. But the level of incidence has dropped drastically. Have yet to check timing, will do that as soon as I can borrow a gun. But idle and wot are great. Rather than replace just the cable, think I'll put aside a fund for doing the whole control panel along with cables... but I am not sure if the new style will work at the back end. Seems quite a bit has changed back there. As I understand it, that shift delay switch is obsolete and no longer available.... Now you get to upgrade for an obscene amount of money to switch out a whole bunch of things. That's another topic, so i'll ask around with a new topic.

Thanks to all for your help and of course additional comments/suggestions more than welcome. - Doug

**flabum1017** · 05-02-2017, 07:47 PM

Originally Posted by CanyonDoug

Carb is back in. Took it out yesterday and initially had to raise idle to get 600-700. Held beautifully, ran like a champ and shifting issue is all but gone. With idle now rock-steady, I can see and feel that the linkage may need a tad of adjustment or more likely replacement. Or maybe the shift delay switch needs a little more stroking or replacement. only a couple times did it die, but felt like linkage had not fully and cleanly disengaged and thus hung up on the delay switch or something. But the level of incidence has dropped drastically. Have yet to check timing, will do that as soon as I can borrow a gun. But idle and wot are great. Rather than replace just the cable, think I'll put aside a fund for doing the whole control panel along with cables... but I am not sure if the new style will work at the back end. Seems quite a bit has changed back there. As I understand it, that shift delay switch is obsolete and no longer available.... Now you get to upgrade for an obscene amount of money to switch out a whole bunch of things. That's another topic, so i'll ask around with a new topic.

Thanks to all for your help and of course additional comments/suggestions more than welcome. - Doug

Get a manual, adjusting the shift cable at the engine is a specific process to get it right. I would stay away from dual lever controls (personal choice)

**Dave Strong** · 05-02-2017, 07:49 PM

Replace the transom shift cable, if they stick even a little bit will cause the shift interupter to do crazy stuff. If you have the correct tap you can use the new style cable.

Dave

**flabum1017** · 05-02-2017, 08:02 PM

Originally Posted by Dave Strong

Replace the transom shift cable, if they stick even a little bit will cause the shift interupter to do crazy stuff. If you have the correct tap you can use the new style cable.

Dave

**Capt.Insane-o** · 05-02-2017, 09:35 PM

Originally Posted by CanyonDoug

Carb is back in. Took it out yesterday and initially had to raise idle to get 600-700. Held beautifully, ran like a champ and shifting issue is all but gone. With idle now rock-steady, I can see and feel that the linkage may need a tad of adjustment or more likely replacement. Or maybe the shift delay switch needs a little more stroking or replacement. only a couple times did it die, but felt like linkage had not fully and cleanly disengaged and thus hung up on the delay switch or something. But the level of incidence has dropped drastically. Have yet to check timing, will do that as soon as I can borrow a gun. But idle and wot are great. Rather than replace just the cable, think I'll put aside a fund for doing the whole control panel along with cables... but I am not sure if the new style will work at the back end. Seems quite a bit has changed back there. As I understand it, that shift delay switch is obsolete and no longer available.... Now you get to upgrade for an obscene amount of money to switch out a whole bunch of things. That's another topic, so i'll ask around with a new topic.

Thanks to all for your help and of course additional comments/suggestions more than welcome. - Doug

Cool, i've found the interrupter switch direct from the manufacturer, it's very reasonable,usually there is no reason to change it.

**CanyonDoug** · 05-02-2017, 09:42 PM

Originally Posted by Capt.Insane-o

Cool, i've found the interrupter switch direct from the manufacturer, it's very reasonable,usually there is no reason to change it.

Would love a link or info in case I ever need it. What I found indicated it was obsolete and no longer available...? From Mercury or actual mfg.? Don't remember any identifying marks on it, but looked like something Potter & Brumfield would offer.

**CanyonDoug** · 05-02-2017, 09:44 PM

Originally Posted by flabum1017

Get a manual, adjusting the shift cable at the engine is a specific process to get it right. I would stay away from dual lever controls (personal choice)

Agreed. Not into those either for my purposes. Would love to find some nod of my merc unit, but haven't even seen one in worn out condition on eBay!

**CanyonDoug** · 05-02-2017, 09:46 PM

Originally Posted by Dave Strong

Replace the transom shift cable, if they stick even a little bit will cause the shift interupter to do crazy stuff. If you have the correct tap you can use the new style cable.

Dave

Meaning the lower one that goes to the drive? Saw something on replacing that. Kind of involved and drive needs to come off if I remember correctly...?

**Krazymaan** · 05-02-2017, 09:51 PM

You found an interrupter switch for 1980. I thought they were no longer available. Unless you mean a setup to replace it with the more modern version.

**flabum1017** · 05-02-2017, 10:13 PM

Originally Posted by CanyonDoug

Would love a link or info in case I ever need it. What I found indicated it was obsolete and no longer available...? From Mercury or actual mfg.? Don't remember any identifying marks on it, but looked like something Potter & Brumfield would offer.

You say the engine loses rpm when shifting, then the switch is fine. the cable either needs adjusting or replacing.

**Dave Strong** · 05-02-2017, 11:01 PM

Originally Posted by CanyonDoug

Meaning the lower one that goes to the drive? Saw something on replacing that. Kind of involved and drive needs to come off if I remember correctly...?

Yes, but that is your issue. Work on these for a living and solve the problem 95% of the time with the cable. 5% of the time with adjustment.

Dave

**CanyonDoug** · 05-03-2017, 05:37 AM

Originally Posted by flabum1017

You say the engine loses rpm when shifting, then the switch is fine. the cable either needs adjusting or replacing.

Good point! You guys are a wealth of knowledge.

**CanyonDoug** · 05-03-2017, 05:41 AM

Originally Posted by Dave Strong

Yes, but that is your issue. Work on these for a living and solve the problem 95% of the time with the cable. 5% of the time with adjustment.

Dave

Understood, and thanks for continuing with input and advice. Will put that on the schedule. How many shop hours to do it? Has this cable also been superseded in style, requiring tap or other updated (expensive) components?

**flabum1017** · 05-03-2017, 06:18 AM

Originally Posted by CanyonDoug

Understood, and thanks for continuing with input and advice. Will put that on the schedule. How many shop hours to do it? Has this cable also been superseded in style, requiring tap or other updated (expensive) components?

Mercury simply changed the way the cable goes in. The old style cable screwed in from the front of the housing and the new one screws in from the back making it easier to install. I think there is a service bulletin that shows how to do the mod.... very easy. If memory serves me right, it takes a 1/4" pipe tap.