Sea rayder F16 175 sport jet 65 mph

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Originally Posted by Poky

the last 175 I had didn't smoke much, I keep the oil pump. the power head the boat came with had 3 holes in it, So I have to build something. the questions started when the shop had a pro max sitting there, so do you build a pro max, or do you use a std block and build 200 hp, or do you stay with the 175 spec, with is about 150 hp. the stick is the money invested doesn't change much. I already own a 21 checkmate with a pro max, so this jet is just for fun. and run the Mississippi if it keeps flooding.

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Poky,
I noted smoke as one of the complaints with the 175 is high smoke at idle, thus plugs tend to foul if idling through no wakes.
Things to consider:
The 175 SJ dynos at the impeller shaft closer to 200 than 175.
I've never dropped a stock ProMax PH on a SJ pump. To do so will require a SJ crank or custom machined pump input shaft. The 175 SJ "water box" and exhaust manifold are the limiting factors to increased power. However, removing the foam pump seals to intake tunnel would help flow a bit more freely (read loud). Maybe someone with knowledge of the ProMax mapping could provide some insight.

I'd have to go back and reread the thread, however I think provided my opinion to the majority of your questions. No matter what route you take, I wish you luck with the project. KT

What's the hull speed of the sea raider? Just a thought.

my last sea rayder with a 175 ran 5500 rpm and 52 mph, and a amazing hole shot.

a question on power from Kevin, if the `175 SP is more like a 200, then how is it a 240 is more like a 225 pro max? for the smoke, I guess I grew up with outboards, if they start to smoke, nail the throttle and clean her out.

I don't think I would remove the baffles, on my last SJ I melted the control cables that run right past the baffles. I would think that with out them, you would melt them even faster, In the spring, I'm going to look into moving them outside of the pump, or as my wife said, try to wrap them.

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Originally Posted by Poky

a question on power from Kevin, if the `175 SP is more like a 200, then how is it a 240 is more like a 225 pro max? for the smoke, I guess I grew up with outboards, if they start to smoke, nail the throttle and clean her out.

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Poky-
I don't think we are on the same page here. I was replying to your above statement that a 175 was more like a 150. In actuality, most 175 SJs that came off the line produced +/- 190HP at the impeller shaft. As to smoke, I was sharing my experience of idling through long no wake zones. With a direct drive impeller, nailing the throttle to clean her out could get one in trouble.

Disregard the factory SJ/PM ratings as the early FI 2.5 SJ & FI 2.5 ProMax can produce near the same power.

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Originally Posted by Poky

I don't think I would remove the baffles, on my last SJ I melted the control cables that run right past the baffles. I would think that with out them, you would melt them even faster, In the spring, I'm going to look into moving them outside of the pump, or as my wife said, try to wrap them.

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As I find time, I share with you why your cables melted.

for hp, I was told that a 175 SJ was comparable to a 150 OB and that a 240 was comparable to a 225 pro max outboard. and I melted my cables on a rare day on Green Bay that was flat, and we ran a WOT for some time

find it interesting that the outboards are so closely rated for hp and the jets are much more lose. or at least sated much differently. look at a outboard rating vs a outboard jet.

SeaDoo had a jet boat a few years back with a 3.0 250 Opti. Not sure how they rated that one.

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Originally Posted by Kevin Turner

To achieve your main goal, my advice would be to stick w/the 175 and run high quality synthetic to keep the smoke down.

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I think in the end, I'm just going with Kevin's advice, and just build a 175 and have fun with my little jet boat.