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stringers are all bedded and glued in. Once they set up i removed my 2x4 spacers.... before the seat boxes where glued down with cabosil, i glassed the stringers in where i knew i could not reach again. 1708 is next. All stringers and seat boxes where completely sealed with resin. Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel now.
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I have to ask. Maybe I missed it somewhere but is that plywood strips in the back pad area there? If so why plywood and not balsa core?
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You are correct, it is plywood planking. That is where this whole "V-king mystery core" thread started. I have never seen the planking before. After ripping my boat apart and doing some research I have learned that it was a layup process that people did use.... From what I read kind of old-school. Anyways mine was in good shape, and still bone dry so instead of taking the chance of damaging my pad....I left the planking in place and used balsa everywhere else. I'll tell you that is one bulletproof pad.
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Right on. That is odd though. Someone at one time must have been in that thing cause I have never seen a hydrostream come from the factory that way. Def interesting.
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For sure, I still am puzzled how it ended up there. All the glass work / core / ski locker, all looked original. A few guys on here along with me think it may have been sent back to Hydrostream at some point for pad work? We may never really know.
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Man...That is some great woodwork :thumbsup: !!!
If your ever down near TN, I would sure like some help with my V-King !! ;)
Just kidding, really nice quality work happening there..:cheers:
James
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Looks messy before sanding.... But there's the 1708 laid over the stringers. I was lucky and got no air bubbles because of good fillets on all the corners.
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looks great!
I became a big fan of 1708 and hull and deck putty. Gave me almost "professional" results.lol
For the more complex curves I found you could wet your pre-cut 1708 pcs with acetone,mold it to fit and let dry in place. It would hold the shape really well and make it easier to install with resin
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That sounds like a great tip... I had a heck of a time getting it to wet out and bend around all those curves. Once it was saturated with resin it formed easily, so that acetone trick sounds great. I had to start at one side and spread it on like wallpaper pulling it tight as I went while wetting it out... I have learned a ton of info from you guys on here.
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Well, there's the basic layup. All that's left is 1708 over the transverse stringers and then some finish sanding. ..... Not sure what to call it? Comp YT? The only core that is in this boat is in the pad. Dare to be different is what I say. So after finish sanding do you guys have any tips on a good paint to use, maybe bilgekote?
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I used the gelcoat from Mertons. Comes in gallon cans, mixed it up and rolled it on. I messed
up the first time with the working time, probably had
to much hardener and it set up in less than 10 minutes. Once I mixed it lighter in the hardner it was much better to work with.
Epoxy would also good I would think.
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Looking good Eric, are you planning on weighing to see what it weighs
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Thanks bob, I would love to weigh this thing.... It must have lost some serious weight... I'm guessing over 100 lbs? Total......no floor, wet foam in the sponsons,rotted core,bench seats,ski locker... Who knows maybe over 100? I cant wait to clean it up and get this thing wet.
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Glasswork is finally done, gas pedal pad was the last of it.... If anyone was curious how I screwed the deck wings back to the hull I threw a couple pics in there. I ended up ordering grey bilgekote to paint the hull. Almost ready to rig.
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Your "deck wing attachment points" may cause cracks in the hull by putting pressure on small areas. I would put some core behind them. jm 2cts....