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Fixing to pick up a Collins Mirage, with a 15" 260, and coned CLE by Jason Wolf. Also has a 10" jackplate. Have a 28 cleaver to start with, but curious as to what setups have worked for others with similar rigs. Such as prop heights, props, pitch, and set back. Thanks!
I ran the same hull and engine for several years. We set the engine height so that centerline of the prop shaft is about even with the pad. Run it and make sure you have good water pressure. If you do, you might be able to raise 1/4” or so. Keep doing this until water pressure starts to subside then back it down 1/4” and should be done. The cleaver will give you more stern lift which is probably fine for the Mirage as these hulls run flatter than other tunnels. Lot of guys run Lightning 28 ETs (good all around prop) but these are not true clevers. I ran a Mazco RE 24 and 29 cause I didn’t have a clever. All of these are decent props for this hull. I ran 10” setback too. A lot depends on what you’re trying to accomplish. That is, are you looking for top end or drag race/acceleration or something “in the middle”? Just need to experiment.
Exactly what you explained is what I was looking for. Essentially somewhere to start. Looking to set up for somewhere between "in the middle" and "top end". What kind of speeds did you see with the 29?? Hoping to be north of 110 once I set it up.
I never strung it out with the 29. I ran the 24 mostly and would get into the 90s and go for miles (or what seemed like miles) on a big lake in the early mornings. Mid 100s to 110 I think is very doable with a 28. My buddy runs a 28ET and runs consistently 105 and he’s like at 5000 feet of altitude and he has a 20” midsection. A lot of guys on here run 30-32P and exceed 110. I never ran a true clever so not certain how that will behave for you but I think you’ll be pleased with the performance of your setup. Oh, and PLEASE ENSURE YOU HAVE A KILL SWITCH AND LIFELINE AT MINIMUM!!!! Be safe!
Glad to hear. I'm excited to pick it up, and get to setting it up! Safety is always number one. Not to be morbid, but I actually lost my dad to a boating accident, so that's always a number one priority for me. Have to respect what ya got!
Very sorry to hear that you lost your father to such an accident. Lots of folks will shell out tens of thousands of dollars towards going fast and then forgo another $500 or so for safety equipment. Most of (really, all of) the guys and gals on this site are very safety conscious and we all wear Lifeline vests and kill switches and even helmets. Let us know how it goes for you.
I will be setting up a boat almost exactly the same whenever it gets here...collins built mirage, 15" mid and late model big window CLE. It has a 10" jack plate and not and I'll be dropping my 260 on to start with. Any height and prop setup info is appreciated. Post some pics as you go along and I will do the same.
I have a 94 Collins Mirage. 10” set back. 1.87 cle gear case. I don’t recall how high above the center pad I am but it’s as high as it will go without running out of water. The largest and only props I have ever run is a 24 inch lightning ET or a 24 Yamaha drag. Originally I ran the boat with a 20 inch housing then I modified the hull to run with a 12 inch housing. I have never been interested in top end, only acceleration. I’ve run the 24 inch up to 10,500 RPM with 187 gears you can do the math, Remember, always use your Killswitch and your lifeline jacket.
I appreciate the feedback! I just picked it up yesterday. Doing some straightening up, and checking everything over before I take it out. It seems to be a great boat. Just gonna take my time checking it out.
Good luck, stay safe.
Attachment 490183Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoker boy
Thank you! Will do. Don't have many good pictures yet
I like the dog
Haha David she's 7 months old, and into everything. Chewed the trailer light wires off my old boat. Gotta watch her!
Took it out for the first time. Idled good, sluggish on plane, and wouldn't turn over 5k. Fixed a fuel leak on the fuel water separator. Any ideas??
If it’s a stock 260 on that hull it should easily turn 7500 if you’re running a 24 pitch prop. Check linkage make sure butterfly is open all the way. Make sure you get a consistent 12 V to the ECU if the voltage is low they will drop RPM. I know you’re running a large prop so I don’t know what kind of RPM but I would guess more than 5000 with a 28. Make sure your fuel pressure is consistent, 25° Timing or 150,000 before top dead center. Look at your plugs. Many times if there’s a problem with the ECU they won’t allow the the motor to turn very many RPM. Those motors are pretty simple it’s a process of elimination, try the simple things first. Pyrometers, fuel pressure gauges, volt meters are good for pinpointing problems.
Well have come to find a few issues with the boat so far. Tachometer, was set on the wrong pulse setting, so it wasn't reading right. After fixing the fuel leak, it was quite a bit better. Swapped spark plugs, hooked up pyrometer, but it rained on me yesterday before I could test.Working on fuel pressure gauge setup now! Thanks for the input so far, and sticking with me. Gonna get this thing right!
At some point you may want to index the fly wheel so you can check the timing at each cylinder.
Ok, gonna have to do some research on how to do that. Any idea what the timing should be? Or close to? I did notice it's really fat running. Plugs were black, but its also on double oil, for break in.
Stock 260 are set at 25° before top dead center. You will have a 0 and 25 on your fly wheel. You use a dial indicator to mark 0 and 25 on the remaining cylinders. Have you timed a 2.5 in the past.
0 is top dead center 25° equals 150,000 on your dial indicator.
I have not. When I get off, I will check the fly wheel to get oriented with the marks. I have a timing gun, but not sure I have a dial indicator. Will have to look through my stuff
This is my fly wheel! What do I do from here?
Attachment 491182
The reason to use a dial indicator is to verify that the indicator arrow is correct. If the indicator arrow is not accurate the 0 and 25 on the fly wheel means nothing. With the piston at top dead center that is zero, your pointer should be at zero.
Rotate the motor backwards 150 tho. That will equal 25°
Once that’s dialed in the easy way is to hook up your timing light to the number one spark plug wire that would be the top right hand cylinder.(looking at it from the rear) disconnect all the spark plug wires and make sure they cannot ground out.
Have someone crank the engine and hold wide-open throttle. That will let you know if you’re at 25° There’s also some idle timing but you can get into that later.
Scroll down about 1/3 of the page to "Timing a 2.5" ---> http://www.biggerhammer.net/mercury/
If you want to check spark you can use something like this.
Ahhhhhh I see what you're saying. Make sure that the fly wheel/indicator is right before even trying to check the timing. Makes sense!! Fairly certain I have a spark tester, just need to grab it. My dad and grandaddy were great with boat motors, and I have most of the tools available because of them. I'm getting there, but didn't get to learn as much as I would have liked to from them. Yalls help means more than you know!
Thanks for the timing page too. Once I verify that the fly wheel and indicator are correct, that will be my next step.
Well got to looking a little more at the motor, and it doesn't have the white point by the starter? Or a point anywhere for that matter.
You can just make a "pointer"... bend a loop on the end of a piece of metal coat hanger; loosen a bolt on the block and slip the wire around it... bend the other end up to the flywheel and cut off the excess... tighten the bolt to lock the pointer in place... bend as needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by duckrazee
I would index the flywheel/piston to 0.150" and set the pointer to the 25* mark on the flywheel if you have those marks.
You don’t have a pointer because the stock 260s had the pointer on the fly wheel cover.
Ahh ok, so I just need a fixed point to measure from. Doesn't matter what/where. The flywheel cover does have a window in the front with a line on it. Thanks again fellas. Will check back in.
Attachment 491368
This what we are looking for right??
Yes... loosen the screw(s) to move the pointer to 25* after you set the piston 0.150" before TDC.Quote:
Originally Posted by duckrazee
Correct! Top dead center 0° BACK the motor off to 150,000 that will be 25 degrees.Quote:
Originally Posted by David - WI
If you mark the fly wheel for all six cylinders that will be called indexing the fly wheel.
That way you can check the timing at all cylinders make sure your system is firing properly. If you have a hole that is firing too early that can cause a major problem ( detonation)if it’s firing too late you’re losing power. If there is a problem the first suspect is switch boxes.
Attachment 491847Attachment 491848Attachment 491849
Ok gentlemen, FINALLY got my dial index. This is what I found after indexing the number cylinder. It looks fairly close to lined up, but not quite. Does the matter? Or do I mark the flywheel where it ended up. And go from there?
Did you use the dial indicator to find top dead center and then adjust your pointer at zero? It looks like it’s about 24°?
Yes got it to TDC and the pointer was dead on 0. Rotated counter clockwise 150,000 and that's where the pointer ended up in comparison to the 25° mark.
Check the clear tube that goes to the ecu if there’s any fluid in it or blockage it will go full rich. Also make sure the barb in the horn is clear.
I have checked the horn barb. It's clear! Haven't checked out the hose to ECU yet. Will do that today.
I would loosen the screw(s) and move the pointer so it lines up with 25*... the zero mark is not important.Quote:
Originally Posted by duckrazee
Attachment 491867
Just stuck spark tester on, got strong spark on all 6. Timing light shows it firing on 25°with timing arm opened all the way up
Now do that same procedure ( 0….25 )on number 2 3 4 5 6. It’s a pain I know but it will let you know if you’re firing properly at the remaining cylinders.