Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesGang
Nice boats! How does that boat run with the 300xs?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesGang
Nice boats! How does that boat run with the 300xs?
So far 85 but it probably has a little more in with some more prop testing and maybe a gear ratio change. He currently has 1.62 gears in a sporty and a 26" Pro Max.
"Right at 70 with my 250 Merc on a 4" hydraulic jack plate. All original 1990 I bought in Michigan in 2003."
Sorry, correction to my previous post, bought the Velocity in 2003...
Only 85 out of it with the 300xs? Is it a stepp hull or regal?
Stepp Hull. The 300XS just doesn't have what the X has. He's perfectly happy with what its doing. Pretty much what he expected. If we did a gear ratio change and play with props it would probably only get him to 87. Then even with the Dave Bush kit maybe 89. Not worth all that in his book. He likes it the way it is, good on gas and dependable.
Dang I have a dbr 300xs I have on my 24 superboat that I was going to put on my 85 22 velocity when I was done rebuilding the boat and was hoping for low 90's
always wondered if that was this boat .. but i guess it is a twin .. how cool !!.. got my transom done and found out the hour meter read 35 hours only ?? I actually think it could be all that was on it.....here is the transom 3.5 "thick ..4" taller.... my tank from sunshine should be done soon..Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesGang
some more progress on the boat .. foam stringers in .. floor pieces done with non skid...sunshine marine 50 gal. tank.....switch panels .. and a 250xb and some dana tabs for it.. still a long way to go
Hate to rain on your parade but for knees to be effective you want the tied in to the stringer system not just stacked on top where it would be easy to sheer away. When doing stringers it would have been good to make them part of it. When adding to good stringers I would bond along side and go forward to the 2nd bulkhead then glass in and do a new shorter bulkhead to the knee. Once the floor is glassed on top everything is locked and the knee can't sheer from the stringer system. Its not too late for yo to something more substantial along side your stringers.
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Here's a picture of knee bonded in before glass.
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This is part of the stringer.
Here's the knees glassed in and then the floor glassed in. Couldn't find a picture with the back bulkheads in before the floor went down. Your job looks like it's coming out so good why not knock out those back two bulkheads, put in a real set of knees and then put the bulkheads back in.
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And then for the final finishing touches for ultimate strength. A bridge with radios rods tied from the bridge to 4" angle aluminum at top of transom. This last boat is my sons boat, the two above are mine and a friends.
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your right about the knees being set on top .. they need to be 1 piece from the side of the stringer up...I am also eliminating the o/b well and make the back like a skater...james gang did you glass over your tank in the rear??
As is always the case, JamesGang offers spot on advice. 110% worth doing exactly what he says at this stage of your project. You'll never have to deal with anything in the future.Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesGang
Here is how I designed a similar approach just for some more ideas with a pic ..........
the different designs on the knees are a must..... all of this is foam board except the transom which is 3.5' thick and should be strong with the top glassed in.... tomorrow I m going to do the knee braces better and add a layer of glass to the bottom between the horizonal stringer braces....... greg g that is some heavy duty bracing !!!