I used a long narrow 12gal tank laid between the inner stringers, centered between the seat box and the front of the splashwell. THis balanced the boat very well.
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I used a long narrow 12gal tank laid between the inner stringers, centered between the seat box and the front of the splashwell. THis balanced the boat very well.
Attachment 485473Attachment 485474I’m using a 18gal tank that will be hidden behind the rear seat, the seat will be hinged so I can access everything behind it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 99fxst99
So as I get closer to having the entire inside of my boat completely covered in a layer of 1708 what should be the finished layer? Should I cover all the 1708 with a layer of csm for the finish or should I roll on more epoxy to smooth our the mat, I have a bunch of csm left over. I’m undecided if I will paint or gel coat the interior but what ever I do I’m going to give it that splattered look like a lot of guys are doing to give it a texture (grippy) effect. Also will gel coat even work over epoxy?
I would think either would be fine.
I would add CSM to smooth out the 1708. Gelcoat won't work over epoxy. You'll have to find a different solution. Awl-grip, etc.
Why is it that gel won’t work over epoxy? The one thing I wanted to gel for sure was the running surface of the boat but first I have to fix all the gouges and and straighten all the strakes and pad. I guess I shouldn’t use any epoxy for this if I’m gonna gel coat it. I could paint the running surface I suppose... the boat will never sit in the water for more than 8hrs at a time. I figured gel on the bottom would be more durable for driving on the trailer and sand bar beaching. If you look back at pics of my boat it is two tone red and white, my plan is to keep it white on the bottom like it already is then paint the red a metallic battleship grey.Quote:
Originally Posted by tnelsmn
There's a big debate on this, but polyester over epoxy can have compatibility issues. Some want a barrier coat over the epoxy. West says it's ok over fully cured epoxy but the trick is to figure out when the epoxy has cured enough.
In any case, epoxy is always tougher than gel coat. The first penetration of the core in my boat was at the front of the V where it actually wore through from beaching. I repaired it much thicker than the original and some years later added an epoxy based "rash guard" just to be on the safe side.
Unless you're doing a show boat type restoration, mixing epoxy with thickener and white pigment will work fine to fill the gouges. I used cabosil as a thickener but that can be hard to sand.
yes the epoxy is some serious stuff, I have drips of it on the old dirty gel and you ain’t getting it off unless you chisel or grind it off. I also have drips on my polished concrete floor and it ain’t coming off, the epoxy will cure rock hard in a bucket of water.Quote:
Originally Posted by transomstand
Attachment 485621 Final Layer of 1708 went over my floor tonight, also tabbed in the back side of my rear seat toe kick. I drilled oversized drain holes in my bulkhead, seat box and toe kick, then I filled them back in with thickened epoxy and glassed a small piece of 1708 over the holes, when it hardens I’ll drill them back out with a smaller bit that way no chance moisture will be able to get to the wood. A little overkill I guess...
Front bulkhead is complete, tabbed in, one layer of 1708 and a layer of csm. Worked on the splashwell delete also, thickened epoxy around the perimeter followed by one layer of 1708. Calling it a day.Attachment 485671
Oh yeah, also put a layer of 1708 on the underside of my seat box lid before I close it up.Attachment 485672
Got a layer of csm down from the bulkhead to the front of the seat box. Also the seat box lid is permanently on now along with 3/8” t-nuts and bolts. Next is to glass the seat box and continue with csm to the back of the boat.Attachment 485728
What are you guys doing when it comes to protecting the hull number on the back of the boat when sanding and preparing the boat for a different paint color?
First new part showed up for the boat today, now I can build my mounting block for it.Attachment 485878
Them T-Nuts should have went in from the bottom. They will pull out very easily from the top like that. Ask me how I know. LoLQuote:
Originally Posted by Jmr1974