Who in their right mind restores a BAYLINER?!

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Originally Posted by FMP

Put up a picture of the rod and pistons, if it's CHRYSLER/FORCE earlier or MERC later PRoMarine has a kit or many other venders, I say use the Wiseco P3151 .020 over in place of cast pistons. MIght have been a replacement someone put on it when the MERC version blew itself to the moon. Just noticed from an earlier pic that it's running a MERC fuel pump, and the rod looks like a bottom . They did put them together like that. It could be a late run bottom guided or a replaced core . YOu may not need the mains or upper and lower bearings check them and spend the money on the better WIsecos

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heres pics. The replaced piston, and the middle one.

Im glad you guys notice the difference in fuel pumps lol. I'm still learning!

Looks like a CHRYSLER/FORCE rod . how about a pic from the big end and cap that was in question? It's 92-95 bottom guided with wrist pin clips. The 91-92 and earier had pressed pins.The clips had me thinking three pistons had been replaced. That first one looks like all cyl need a bore to .020 so things are straight. You can take these to .040 over and more with .050 rings.

Thanks for the info! I'll have to take pics tomorrow of the rod cap in question. So I'm thinking I'll have to buy the rebuild kit for the bottom guided earlier motor

Got the deck all prepped for paint. I'm going to put the two halves together first though. I'm also going to have to figure something out with this horrible BAYLINER engineering woe you can see as a gaping hole at the corners of the transom.

Also almost burned down my garage due to some damn mice.

Wish I knew how to take pics upside down. Those corners have to go, top over bottom then seal it all around , then rivets , then rail and rub trim. If it doesn't want to go then maybe the lower spread out on you a bit after you worked it.

You need to read through the CHRYSLER RACING thread for lots of great pic of triples.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtiAF2fWk7I is a triple that runs strong. Yes bottom guided, but you may not need all of it.

That link didn't work

It was working, a lot of odd things going on. I will post the tread.

Here's a picture of the rod and cap. I didn't pay attention to the cap orientation when I took the cap off but when I put it back on, it sounded fine. What do ya think? I couldn't see any cracks or nicks.

So I'm a better welder than I am caulker. I suck with that sticky stuff. You can see under the bow rail where I made a mess.
By the time I got to the sides I got better. I put 5200 sealant between where the deck overlaps the hull first. Used stainless hardware 1" long 3/16" machine screws with washers and nuts on the inside. A lot stronger than just rivets. You can see my brother who was my hired help for the evening paid with pizza haha. He did all the inside work while I was comfy screwing on the outside

Use rivets they tighten both halves together, what are you backing the screws with???? The rod is your call. Boat looks good. Oh washers and nuts, sure , they are bolts, machine screws.

Ya, machine screws lol. Like these ...

By by the way, I haven't come across any pics of force triples in my searching unfortunately. Even in the Chrysler racing thread

i just noticed that pic uploaded upside down haha. I don't know why, it's right side up in my phone

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Originally Posted by home made tunnel

Ya, machine screws lol. Like these ...

By by the way, I haven't come across any pics of force triples in my searching unfortunately. Even in the Chrysler racing thread

i just noticed that pic uploaded upside down haha. I don't know why, it's right side up in my phone

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Here you go straight from the CHRYSLER RACING thread. The triple one of a few shown. The CHRYSLER is the origin of the FORCE. The fours look even better , and the fives well .

Ooooo Purdy!

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Originally Posted by FMP

With some smart tuning and mods you won't be upset with the power. That one should be a top guided Merc pistons ,rods motor . You will get marked increase if done right, all hands on mods . A thread on here had a triple doing 120+ hp dyno at the prop after mods and E85. Still needs to be white to make real power, HA, HA.

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I found that guys thread ! Wish there was more pictures about it. I want to learn the 15* of timing advance he put into it.
So being white... That's a Chrysler joke huh? Hahaha, I'm learning... my ignorance is embarrassing.

With the triple block spacing and 120* crank pin spacing the pulse wave returns at about 18 * , 18* , and 13 * prior to ex closing for the tuning pairs at 5500rpm. This is delayed even more than the 4 cyl 30-40* . The range on the triple can be bought in a bit sooner and still make good low end. The practice has shown that an increase in ex duration of 15* is good , that works out to about .045-.050 raise for the 2.8 stroke and still gets the pulse in at the benificial range. Boat weight , load , passengers , skiing tubing, will all show on the low end if the ports are too high, prop changes should get you over the hump. The other mods will also help but a conservative amount with squaring will give good results.