Printable View
Had a piece of 1/2" scrap aluminum from a previous project. Crudely extracted a piece 24" x 3.5" from the piece to use as a backing plate for the upper jackplate mounts. Will round the corners and clean it up when the "finish" work is started. Now that most of the rigging has been mocked up, will start de-rigging and getting the inside hull and underside deck finished and ready to glass back together.
Nice Job.
You going to paint your bolt caps black or something?
Same color as the splashwell, white.Quote:
Originally Posted by Murph
Are you planning on bracing the transom above the splashwell? It looks like all the strain is at, or above the splash well.
The relocated mounting holes are 2" above the original mounts. Thought that with the added knees and the splashwell getting glassed in good that there wouldn't be a problem. Do you have any suggestions?Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskaStreamin
Most Hydrostream transoms are about 4" above the bottom of the splashwell and they get cracks in the corners. The top bolts are trying to pull back and the lower ones would be pushing forward. On a stock set-up, the top bolts are close to the splashwell. Your set-up is so high, it puts the "hinge" point of the jack "bottom edge of jack" right at or near the splashwell. To me, that creates a shear line and all the stress is above all your reinforcement. By deleting the splashwell, you would be using the rear deck to support the transom much higher. I would like to hear others feedback. Maybe I'm missing something.
I would agree with Ron. If your going to raise your transom, I would remove the splashwell so you can get the support of the deck up higher. That is also the reason most guys do remove the splash well for the add strength. Just my .02 cents. I would like to also hear others input but im with Ron on this one.Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskaStreamin
Too busy looking at those nice caps.
Certainly need some kind of mechanical bracing.
Something fastened to the transom plate to the boat.
Can't stop thinking about Ron's observation regarding the stability of the raised transom. When I got home from work I studied the transom and motorboard wondering why I didn't see the shear line, may have got caught up in the lower bolt accessibility issue. After looking and measuring, I don't think shear will be an issue as the jackplate reaches 4 additional inches below the lower mount well into the knees. When the old motorboard was cleaned out, a deep channel of the original supporting glass was left in to nest the new motorboard into helping to tie it unto the hull. The motorboard is 1.5", 10 ply thick with and additional 3/4", 5ply base that is also tied into the stringers. When the deck gets glassed back on, will look at gusseting the splashwell and motorboard together and I think it will be good.
That jacking plate is a beautiful piece. I like how it is very smooth and modern looking
The underside of the deck was cleaned up and painted and is now ready to be mated back with the hull.......only the hull is a long way from being ready. Back to sanding!
Nice! What did you use for paint? That will make it nice and bright under the deck.
Used a quart of Rustoleum Top-coat for boats. It's a semi-gloss white and went on well. Thinking about using it for the inside of the hull as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by NosBoss
Stopped by the machine shop on the way home from work and picked up my Seastar helm. Machined a hub for the woodruff key and to mount the steering wheel to. Also made a cover for the steering shaft/nut.
Had an old mechanical trim gage the was cast. Since there will be a need for two, one for the trim and the other for the jackplate, had a pair made. Have some ideas for placement on the dash.