Building/ freshening up my 175 big bore crossflow

Ok. here's the images of the exhaust reliefs cut in. I have three on each side. Everyone that I have seen drills their holes sideways into the lower. I wanted to try something a little different. Since the column of air is flowing straight down, I wanted my holes to run that direction too. SO, I took a spacer and followed the inside contour of the exhaust area and scribed a line on each side. I then started at the back and used a spacer to make equidistant lines for the crosshairs for the centerlines. The holes don't look straight, but they are in a perfect line(matching the angled line inside the exhaust area.......not the outside looking in). That is why I took a pic angled up for you to see that as well. I have no idea if it will improve airflow out versus a 90 degree opening. My holes were drilled from the inside out and then radiused with a sanding roll as best as I could.:D

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Still looking for someone to chime in about intake screens....yes or no.

didn't get a break. Work is keeping me too busy to get anything done. But my son who helped me on this car, took some pics of the car I/we restored last summer/fall. We took it down to the frame and built it up from there. Its my bosses car. He liked what I did on my '87 mustang and told me to do whatever I'd do to it if it were my own.............and I did. Its a ls3(495hp) crate motor with a t56 6speed behind it, full 3 inch exhaust and much more. It still isn't running because my boss is building the center console(custom) for it himself.

I figured if I had no outboard pics for ya, I'd post these...........enjoy

BTW, the pics DONT do this paint justice..........pearlblue over the white with holographic metal flake in the rally stripes/sidestripes........ the flipside of my lower unit previously posted. Hopefully I can get back to the outboard tomorrow;)

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Exhaust holes you drilled are common practice and as for the intake screen yes you need to run them. The screens have a divider in them which helps if one side has lower pressure than the other.

Al, thank you for the input. I was looking for someone to answer my questions, thank you for responding......and educating me as to the "why" the screens are necessary.:thumbsup:

Been a few days. I got the pistons put on the rods on Saturday........not a fan of the procedure..........never have been. Its the only part that is so tedious. But I read from another poster about a different method in the future......to use a cut down wristpin.

I completed the lower unit. I sanded the runs out.....went too deep........had to spray epoxy, color and clear again......oh well.

I painted the cover(cowl). Its a single stage urethane with 3-4 coats clear on it. It looks black when there is not direct light on it......almost color shifting. You'll see in a pic that there is a run. I got greedy again. But there is a lot of clear on it. I can wet sand it out without issues. And if so, I have more clear. There is orange peel anyways.Attachment 440075Attachment 440076Attachment 440077Attachment 440078Attachment 440079


I am waiting on rod bolts to get the motor assembled. I didn't want to re-use the originals......or there would be more to post

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Originally Posted by keefallan

Been a few days. I got the pistons put on the rods on Saturday........not a fan of the procedure..........never have been. Its the only part that is so tedious. But I read from another poster about a different method in the future......to use a cut down wristpin.

I completed the lower unit. I sanded the runs out.....went too deep........had to spray epoxy, color and clear again......oh well.

I painted the cover(cowl). Its a single stage urethane with 3-4 coats clear on it. It looks black when there is not direct light on it......almost color shifting. You'll see in a pic that there is a run. I got greedy again. But there is a lot of clear on it. I can wet sand it out without issues. And if so, I have more clear. There is orange peel anyways.Attachment 440075Attachment 440076Attachment 440077Attachment 440078Attachment 440079


I am waiting on rod bolts to get the motor assembled. I didn't want to re-use the originals......or there would be more to post

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Vents look good..

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Originally Posted by mrichartz

Vents look good..

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A pretty cool dude on here sold 'em to me:D

Cant believe nobody is commenting on that bad azz Nova! I bet it will run good with a ls3 and t56. Love the deep sound of a 3 inch exhaust also. Probably a 12 second car?

You know Robert? I have been surprised a little too.......and thanks for commenting. Actually the Nova should be a solid (mid to low)11 second car. Mike's biggest problem will be traction(the owner). Even though I have put a set of Caltrac(traction bars) on it for that purpose, he only has a 255/45/17 out back. IMO, Caltracs are the baddest traction bar out there. There are 8 second cars out there using them effectively.

I agree with you on the sound of 3" exhaust..........nothing like it. My 87 mustang has full 3" exhaust from front to back.........sounds like no other.

Yep lots of s10 v8s use Caltracs. Put a good drag radial on that Nova and it should be fine. I had a chevelle 454 with headers and 3 inch exhaust with 3 chamber flowmasters dumped right in front of rear axel and the sound was so deep it would set off car alarms all the time.

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Originally Posted by robert jordan

Yep lots of s10 v8s use Caltracs. Put a good drag radial on that Nova and it should be fine. I had a chevelle 454 with headers and 3 inch exhaust with 3 chamber flowmasters dumped right in front of rear axel and the sound was so deep it would set off car alarms all the time.

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I understand about deep sounding. I did the same............but couldn't hear anyone. So, I decided to finish it off to the back of the car.....much tamer,.....still crazy loud when the go pedal is mashed, but the perfect level at idle........its still loud tho:thumbsup:

Yah, you couldn't hear yourself think inside the car with it dumped in front of axel. The pipes were also angled down at a 45 degree exit so it was bouncing of the pavement. I always wished they were run all the way out the back, but at the time the muffler shop said they couldn't bend three inch pipe over the axel. I know better now, it can be done.

I wet sanded the cover yesterday. I found the time to cut/rub/buff it out today. Wasn't feeling well, so it was more difficult than normal. There are a couple of spots that I will go back and sand/cut/ and buff at a later time. I want to mount it to the belly pan to keep it still when I do it. The wool cutting pad liked to move it all over the table. Its like a mirror now..........in most spots.........



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Whats your thoughts on the above statement? This motor came with the 35 amp unit. But I am contemplating installing the 9 amp for these reasons: 1) no magnets glued in to come loose 2) free hp? that's really a question............how much more power will the engine make with the 9 amp vs 35? Oh yeah the third reason..........I wont have a lot of electronics or anything on the boat.........depth finder at best.

And lastly, you don't hear often of the smaller units burning up and melting...............much more so with the 35 unit.

So, is it worth it to purchase the 9 amp or use the 35? All replies welcome, no wrong answer here.