InterestingQuote:
Originally Posted by Varmint
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InterestingQuote:
Originally Posted by Varmint
In case someone is reading that like I just did,..... DO NOT core your boat with pool noodles!!!!
In my RC boats I use pool noodles for flotation and also flat sheets of polyethylene foam
I sprayed mine light grey with SEM 39650 "tintable" truck bedliner. It stays a little bit "rubbery"... makes a nice non-slip, easy to wash out, durable floor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaronhl
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/sem-...0-p-15344.aspx
I like the stuff, it just didn't "cover" the way I expected and everything shows through just like paint... I wish I had done more prep (like clipping stray fiberglass strands).
I bought their undercoating gun to apply it:
Attachment 363588
Haha i'm not recommending anybody epoxy pool noodles in their hull, just read it on several boards, so just sayin' happy new year to all you fella's.Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskaStreamin
Oh I knew what you were saying. Just didn't want a noob to read it wrong and buy out wally mart.
LolQuote:
Originally Posted by AlaskaStreamin
Hi guys I am back, been working on the virage, here is a sneak peak will post more pictures over the next few weeks...clamps just dry fitting
if anyone wants those clamps I will sell you several
wow nice work !!!
Dont forget to finish all your edges etc and drill a zillion bleed holes to let the air pockets bleed out and any surplus resins etc all over when you do the final clamp together !
Its possible to clamp that transom down simply by using vacuum bag and that's cool !!
Here were the 3 pieces I put together for the transomAttachment 381574
Attachment 381575
Attachment 381576
I wish I was setup for vacuum bagginQuote:
Originally Posted by tunnels
Vac bagging a wooden transom directly onto wet glass need 3 layers of 450 gram csm well wet out and the plywood pacer need 5 mm holes drill all over at about 80mm spacing . during the suck down the transom squashes the glass compresses and the resin bleeds though to the face side ,also if there are any voids within the construction of the plywood packer the resin penetrates the bleed holes allow the penetration of resin into and fills the voids inside the layers of ply 1, Places where veneers have small gaps or knot holes and the like !! the other up side its one hell of a lot harder for water to soak the ply packer so transom lasts way longer than normal .Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaronhl
One place when we had twin stern drives we sucked the two packers at the same time . When the hull was lifted out and the hole cut it had completely soaked and sealed with resin all and every where !!, but the very edge of the hole was still glassed over and gel coated as a extra precaution ,Big boats sit in the water 11 1/2 months of the year so anything that will slow down water getting in any where is always a huge help.
DONT FORGET TO PRIME AND ALLOW TO SOAK THE BACK SIDE BEFORE YOU FIT ITAGAINST WHAT EVER YOU STICKING IT WITH THEN CLAMP
YOU MIGHT ALSO NEED SOME FINE THIN WEDGES TO HAMMER IN FROM EACH SIDE BETWEEN THOSE ARMS AND THE PACKER AS THE ARMS WILL BEND AT THE FURTHERST END FOR SURE ! EVEN 2X4 BOX SECTION STEEL BENDS
GOOD LUCK ANYWAY !!
What do you mean arms? Do you mean the lower corner? I was thinking about cutting some wood to put in there with thickened resin before I fiberglass over
The 4 arms of those clamps you made !!Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaronhl
So what sort of a mix you anticipate using as adhesive to stick the wood to the glass ??
Ahhh gotcha, I can get them pretty tight though because the tops spread and put pressure on the bottom of the transom
i have raka slow epoxy for the boat
Attachment 381590