highvelocity- nice idea making a lightweight bench seat, I cant wait to see what my boat will do, I will definately update this thread in the spring with some performance numbers :thumbsup:
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highvelocity- nice idea making a lightweight bench seat, I cant wait to see what my boat will do, I will definately update this thread in the spring with some performance numbers :thumbsup:
Yeah, it's funny, I haven't worked with fiberglass that much, it's amazing stuff. I haven't supported the middle yet so I sat by the corner and it held me with no problem. As Dave will tell you I am a minimum of 230lbs...LOL
Also, since I am running a foot of set-back it makes the boat sag a bit more which is OK. But if I run in a chop the best way to run that boat is as flat as possible. For this reason I may try moving one or both batteries forward.
Your thoughts...???
I wish i could tell you my thoughts on moving weight around, but i have never ran my own boat yet, you could try putting a little bit of weight in the bow to see how it reacts, and if the boat does well then move a battery forward
High Velocity - great idea on the custom-fabbed rear bench.:thumbsup:
I converted my stock rear bench to be able to stow some gear. The seat itself was actually built separate from the base, but screwed on from beneath at the factory. I separated the two parts, cut an access, cut away a protion of the middle support, painted everything white, screwed on a piano hinge and fabbed a strap handle. Now the bench does more than just tilt forward to expose the bilge. I can actually store a few things under the seat. It works well.
Nice work. :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Velocity72
:thumbsup: Both seats are great ideas! Nice work, guys. Now I'm gonna have to do some tinkering this winter on mine!
I think not !!!Quote:
Originally Posted by vnemous
BIGNICK's Velocity with a 300 Promax runs 84mph
There is a Velocity 22 for sale in the Maryland area currently if anyone is buying.
And his is a Stepp hull, but with the newer deck. Wonder what it weighs, dry hull only, compared to the other data I found...
Does anyone know what a stepp built 22 weighs completely unrigged? no interior etc...
I had to build a new seat for my boat and did the same thing!! It is much better with some extra storage!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Velocity72
Seat , Base, Both upholstered. Now I just need to paint it white like you did!! Gives it that "finished" look!!
any one know where i can get new 100mph decals mine are still there but shot?http://i38.tinypic.com/xcw5sy.jpg
one of me runing.
http://i36.tinypic.com/n3stcj.jpg
I might have some stickers for you ...i'll look later .
thanks tom. your the man
What's that seat weighing in at??? It looks pretty light. My old one was heavy, I used 3/4 plywood and resined it to seal it. It was very heavy.
As far as the lower unit goes I'm running a torquemaster without the low water pickups. Why....because they're not needed. You're going to find that the prop needs to be run 3-4 inches below the pad to get any kind of bow lift. And a sportmaster is about 4-5 mph slower when buried that deep. It has much more surface area being dragged through the water and drives the slip factor way up. I'll give you a perfect example. My setup has a 300pm with 12 inches of setback and its a regal velocity. I ran a best of 79.6gps. That was at 6200rpms. My buddy has a stepp velocity with a 300x and the same setback and prop. He spins his up to 6700prms, the result is the EXACT same speed. The only difference is he's running a sportmaster. His setup should run 4-5 mph faster but he doesn't. Its all in where you run it in relationship to the pad. And if he raises it to take advantage of the sportmaster design he loses most bowlift and alot of speed. You have to realize that these are heavy boats, they are NOT Progressions or Superboats and you will never see much higher then the very low 80's unless its a lightweight or has alot of horsepower. (Like alot more then a 300X).Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeylarge
Quote:
Originally Posted by amityray
I agree, I wish I could run mine a inch lower than I have it now but I am not going to drill new holes in the transom to do it. The prop I run has a pretty good cup and that helps make up the difference a bit.
Hey Ray, what prop are you running on the TM?
24 trophy
it seems to be the best all around prop
So do you think the same thought would hold true - using the TM - on a 2.4 /2.5 application? As opposed to lwp type and chopper? (same 12" setback)
I have a 24p Trophy that I haven't tried yet...gotta rering my engine or get another ph first.
you really don't need to have a low water pickup but if it makes you feel a little safer then thats your call. I'm not sure if the 2.5's t/m is available with the low water pickups. I haven't seen any but maybe its possible. I wouldn't consider a sportmaster or any other lower thats coned. First reason is you need to have the lower unit deep and any increase in surface area will slow you down. And the second reason is that those gearcases are really only needed for surfacing and with speeds of around 85 and above to prevent blowout. So why spend a lot of money for one when the stock lower will be fine for your application.Quote:
Originally Posted by cutwater
You'll like the trophy, its much better then the chopper for your boat. These boats seem to like the prop buried, giving more leverage to lift the bow.
You have a hydraulic jack plate. Throw the trophy on the boat and start with the prop about 4 inches below the pad then trim it up and play with the height, when it starts to chine walk just tap the jackplate up a bit until it settles down. Thats the sweet spot, you can easily balance it on the pad.
Thanks for the thoughts, Ray. My jackplate is a manual on, maybe I'll find a good hydraulic over the winter and try that out.
My buddy has a 22' Velocity,not sure whether its a Regal or Stepp but it was built in 88' and has a kevlar hull with a glass deck. It has a 300PM using a 26" chopper and it runs between 83-84 on gps and he can still spin a bigger prop. Thats was the biggest he had at the time due to him running 2.5(280) before changing to the 300. You can see me racing it against Ocke Mannerfelts,Progressions and Phantoms @ www.bermudasportsnetwork.com
I recommend Bob's jackplate, it's fast and a great design. It's not cheap but if you plan on keeping the boat it's a great way to go.
Does anyone have any pics of their bilge, and or dash setup??? I have a few ideas in my head but a few pics would really help :cheers:
dash set up
The only dash pic that I have is when I first bought the boat. Has all new interior and a few upgrades since then!! I will update my pics after the new guages go in!Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeylarge
Cool thanks for the pictures, keep them coming :thumbsup:
I actually found some other ones. Stored in the wrong folder on the comp! Not much different than the first ones though. Can't help you with the bilge pics. Mine is an I/O.........:cool:
I/O's have bilges:D There's just usually some nasty looking engine in the way.:thumbsup:
PS: Engine belongs on transome:rolleyes:
The "nasty" motor is a difference of opinion!! :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by vnemous
The boat that got me "hooked" on the 22 V's had a "BIG" Johnson on the back of it!!!:p
EDIT: Here ya go Venemous!! Best shots I can get of the bilge!:cool:
No I'm of the same opinion if "Nasty" is a good thing:cheers:Quote:
Originally Posted by DKerns
Edited the post above for ya Venomous!
Sorry for the sidetrack O/B guys!!
I like the diamond plate. Sets it off and much cleaner looking.
Im a dihard BBC guy, not sure why i got this big ugly thing hangin off my boat :eek::eek::eek: lol :D
Hey how come you didn't paint the diamond plate into my billage when u painted it?Quote:
Originally Posted by vnemous
my new gauges. Im making up a stainless steel cup holder for were the compass used to go
Where's the kill switch on my side:D Your headers would melt diamond plate;)
Click Free
http://i34.tinypic.com/m98484.jpg