I have replaced a LOT of those check valves on the main tank pressure line over the years.
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I have replaced a LOT of those check valves on the main tank pressure line over the years.
Are you talking about the tee fitting #424254? Or, the one on the engine block #432783? I am guessing the latter can be bad even though the engine tank still fills, because the pressure still works, but when it fails it allows air to go backwards, thereby causing the siphon effect? Is that right? If I take it out to check, when I put it back, or replace it, is there a sealant that needs to be used, or does it seal simply by threading it back in?Quote:
Originally Posted by XstreamVking
Edit: Just removed hose on the 432783 on the block. Put a short section on it, and I could not blow back into the block. I could, however, suck air through it and, thankfully, I didn't inhale, because I could certainly "taste" fuel-ish fumes. Disclaimer: This procedure can cause cancer to those that reside in the State of California :D
So that leaves me with o-rings and the 424254. Should I order the 424254 to have on hand when I order the o-rings, or take another gamble and just get o-rings?
I've never had a problem with separation, even after sitting too long.Quote:
Originally Posted by Basnova
On another note. A tool like a mityvac would be very helpful for finding air leaks.
Start the engine and do the soapy water test on the main oil tank. Hoses and fittings too if you can get to them. You should see bubbles like ski said if there's a leak. . Could be a leak in the tank you can't see just by looking at it. That would be the next test imo. The o-rings may be it, they are old and prob need replaced anyway. The T fitting is 35 bucks so not too bad. The blow back test passed the air supply check valve for function to build pressure in the tank, but it may have debris in it and allow a slow leak. It's about 35 bucks also.
You can not use the mouth blow technique to check for a slow leak. A slow leak can show in the bubble test as 1 bubble every few seconds. You will never feel it with your mouth. It's a very basic system. There has to be a leak somewhere before the engine tank. If no leaks show up with the bubble test, change the pressure check valve. But I think new orings will fix it. Make sure all sealing surfaces are clean and dont have any nicks scratches or cracks.
Alright, I ordered two o-rings, and the check valve, just in case. I really don't think it is the tee fitting, because based on how that works, it would allows air in when the motor is running. If it allowed air in while sitting, then it would leak, and it's not leaking. And, it is not a one-way valve for the oil.
Looks like I will be doing changes in stages because the tank gasket was ordered before the o-rings so I will likely not be able to sit on idle hands while waiting for the o-rings. ;) If it still leaks then, I will replace the o-rings next. If it still leaks then, I will replace the check valve.
Do you have the aggressive smoke on start up still? Are you sure the pressure relieve valve isn't bad and it is pushing oil into your intake?
If you leave the cap off it should overflow when idling. But I would start the engine on the hose with the cap off. Let it pump all the way up to the top. Shut the engine off and then see if the oil level goes down with the cap off. If it doesn't, it means the system is staying pressurized and pushing oil into your fuel line with the engine off. If it only happens with the cap on, I would think all your check valves should be fine and the issue is pressure, with the only place for it to go is to bleed into your fuel line.
It seems to be draining when he tilts the engine up on the trailer locks. Yours is a good test though. Worth doing.
Thank you for chiming in here.Quote:
Originally Posted by superboop
When I start it and just idle it, it smokes a little, like I would expect a 2-stroke would. If I give it some throttle soon after starting it, I get a clouf of smoke, but once I get it heated up I don't think it's overly smoky. But, I have nothing to compare it to because it's been like that from day one.
It would definitely overflow if I left the cap off, so I cap it before it gets to the top of the threaded neck, because right now I don't want any oil overflowing while I'm troubleshooting and looking for oil/air leaks.Quote:
If you leave the cap off it should overflow when idling.
That last sentence isn't quite clear to me. Is there a typo and/or a missing punctuation in there somewhere? Could you please clarify that sentence? In the meantime, I can tell you that the oil always only drops to the point just below the fill port, so I'm pretty sure it's being siphoned back down the fill line. I would think if it was pushing into the fuel line the tank level wouldn't always drop to that exact point, or at least be inconsistent, right?Quote:
But I would start the engine on the hose with the cap off. Let it pump all the way up to the top. Shut the engine off and then see if the oil level goes down with the cap off. If it doesn't it means the system is staying pressurized and pushing oil into your fuel line with the engine off if it only happens with the cap on but all your check valves should be fine.
If it was pushing oil through when shut off the tank would not stop draining at the fill nipple every time. Plus if that much oil was pushed through the oil pump into the fuel while not running, it would be too much oil in the fuel too run.
A little off-topic, but I have been sticking the lower end in a 100 gallon horse trough. How do you start it on a hose? Do you mean via the Mercury nose cone attachment? I've been wanting to get one of those because using 100 gallons all the time is a real PITA, and can get costly where I live if I do it enough. But, I heard there are different attachments for different Sportmaster nose cones, and I didn't want to get the wrong one and not get enough water into the motor. Do you happen to know which part number I need? Serial #0G703213, if that matters. I also read on this forum that people DIY using tubes, or something, but I've been scared to try it for fear of, again, not getting enough water flow into this motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by superboop
Sorry if I hijacked my own thread, but I really do want to know more about this! :eek:
Sorry I’ve got a torquemaster on my 98 pro max so it’s easy to put ear muffs on. With your sporty you probably need to stick with the trough. I’m sure there is a way to run off a hose but I don’t want to give you bad information.Quote:
Originally Posted by Basnova
Fixed my wording to be more clear. Agree it is odd it is always the same spot. Seems like it’s the check valve at the motor then.Quote:
Originally Posted by Basnova
https://www.buckshotracing77.com/pro...arcase-flusher
I think you can find these for around $50 if you shop around, but it fits Sportmasters, coned lowers, etc.
I've been researching them, but the inlet is not directly under the pickup on my cone. My pickupQuote:
Originally Posted by David - WI
grate is right under the front of the cone and the inlets on these flushers are farther back. Does that matter?