Thanks, yeah I don’t think there’s anyway around it unless you have a helping hand mixing for you and getting what you need. This is gonna take some time, I better get back after it!Quote:
Originally Posted by Merc 2.5
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Thanks, yeah I don’t think there’s anyway around it unless you have a helping hand mixing for you and getting what you need. This is gonna take some time, I better get back after it!Quote:
Originally Posted by Merc 2.5
Thanks, gonna be tough to get a good pic with the cradle I built under it in the way. Let me know what angle your looking for. If you go back to the beginning of this thread I have a few pics of the boat out in the open, side profile etc. The Ventura hull looks just like the Action boats of the same era, at least to me it does. Somebody copied somebody. Must’ve been a good design. I have a 1987 Valero V-pad and the Ventura hull is quite a bit different except for the pad area and the part under the transom that’s curved way in by the drain plug.Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeFever
What lake are you on in Southern Wis ?
I’m not on a lake anymore. I grew up on one just outside of Oconomowoc WI.Quote:
Originally Posted by specboatops
It looks very similar to my Vandal, your gonna love driving that thing.
Attachment 471730Well I’ve been picking away at glassing in the stringers, been real busy with work. Probably gonna be like this for a while, only being able to work on the boat an hour here and an hour there. I knew this was going to happen sooner or later, that’s way I came out of the gate running in the beginning. All I can say is each piece of glass I lay is one closer to the end. What I’m doing is laying 3 pieces of 1708 on each side of the stringers with each piece extending longer on to the hull then the piece before it. When I finish all 3 layers on each side of the stringers I’m going to come back and cap of the top of the stringers with 1 layer of 1708. I no some guys go up and over the stringers with each layer, for a novice like me that’s to much to deal with so I decided to focus on one side at a time. I’m able to get all 3 layers done on one side this way which means no sanding between layers!
I did some more glass work on the boat this past Friday night and Saturday. I woke up Sunday morning with extremely swollen eyelids, I looked like Rocky Balboa. Apparently I have become sensitive to epoxy resin according to the info I’m finding online. Today (Monday) my eyelids are still puffy but improving. I’m going to let this completely clear up before doing anymore work on the boat. I ordered a 3m 6800 full face mask with the pink vapor cartridges. I always wear gloves, face mask, tyvek suit and goggles when sanding. When I lay new glass I only wear gloves and I think the vapor from the epoxy resin is what is irritating my eyes. I hope this full 3m face mask will allow me to continue working on the boat. I read some people’s sensitivity gets so bad that they can’t ever touch the stuff again. Anybody ever experience a reaction like this? Moving forward I’ll be using the new mask and run a fan when laying new glass/epoxy and hope for the best. I figured I run into things that would slow my progress down here and there but never expected this.
Well that sucks man. My wife was doin those custom epoxy tumblers and became allergic after month or so of doin it and had to stop, she ended up with a epi pen thing just incase. Crazy how that works and dosent affect you 1st time using it. Use good gloves and mask. Don't want throat swell upQuote:
Originally Posted by Jmr1974
Yeah it sucks, I’m hoping that a full face mask saves my but.Quote:
Originally Posted by Merc 2.5
If you rub your eyes with glass dust or get airborne sanding dust from glass in there you get eye irritation. Can’t have too good of a respirator that will probably solve it. I use a versaflo now, amazing technology
Bet you guys thought I gave up... well I kinda did for a bit but getting back at it again! Attachment 482889Attachment 482890Attachment 482891Attachment 482892Attachment 482893 Just made the seat box this morning and started the bulkhead in front of it, ran out of plywood. Also picked up a clean clear case yesterday, it just needs a good paint job. So time to order more epoxy resin and hit menards for some more marine plywood.
So I’m getting close to bonding my plywood floor to the top of my stringers. I still have to cap off the top of my stringers and glass the bottom of the plywood, also want to brush some gel coat on the area under the floor and on the stringers before I cover it. What is a good way to bond the floor to the stringers? I’m guessing most guys will say thickened epoxy... I’m not sure I can mix enough and get it down fast before it kicks off. Is there another type of epoxy like in a tube that can be used in a caulk gun that sets up a little slower? This way I can skip the part of mixing peanut butter. Also I’m sure any type of fastener (screws) thru the floor into the stringers is a no no in our type of boats...
You can get empty caulk tubes and fill them yourself. Or even use a gallon bag and cut the corner off. Also get some slower hardener for more time. Epoxy putty is strong and sticky. Weights instead of screws is my go to when possible. You could screw the floor down and after it cures remove them. Lots of ways to do it. If the floor sits tight on the stringers you could lay some strips of very wet glass on the underside of the floor panel and set it into place instead of using putty.
the hardener I’ve been using is 2:1 slow hardener, it still kicks pretty fast when trying to do a big area, it was summer and hot as hell out when I was last working with it, maybe it won’t kick as fast being it’s much colder here now.Quote:
Originally Posted by XstreamVking
This vid here shows a guy piping in thickened resin with a bag. He moves quick, maybe this is will help
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8LhiYgYMNk