Tricks that old racers get up to after retirement

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Originally Posted by jackiewilson

Mark always wondered what exactly we had with”Old Blue”————- lots of things just didn’t add up——— the old distributor——- the in line leg———- die cast heads——— the more he looked at it, the less sense he could make of it.
At the moment it would appear the best thing to do is NOTHING, except maybe put a glass case round it.
I have to say, it’s certainly,——— very suddenly become a really exciting piece of kit——- to this day, I will never understand why Rich or Roger never snapped up this slice of history.
Its provenance is indisputable so for outboard historians and puritans——— Old Blue is already priceless !
It was Sirois who told me about all the Lake X test sheets (including the Switzer findings)——— I had never ever set eyes on Old Blue and bought it over the phone.

What a brilliant start to the new year!

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Glad I could help you get the new year off to a good start Jackie. If there's anything further you or Mark would like to know about OLD BLUE just let me know.
I don't know about priceless but I once estimated it probably cost $50,000 or more to build and that was in 1971 dollars. The crankshaft and rods are from billets and there was no CNC machining back then. It was all operator skill with lots of jigs and fixtures.

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Originally Posted by rckid74

Glad I could help you get the new year off to a good start Jackie. If there's anything further you or Mark would like to know about OLD BLUE just let me know.
I don't know about priceless but I once estimated it probably cost $50,000 or more to build and that was in 1971 dollars. The crankshaft and rods are from billets and there was no CNC machining back then. It was all operator skill with lots of jigs and fixtures.

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How did the rods end up being milled from a billet, were they cracked cap or like inline rods?

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Originally Posted by powerabout

How did the rods end up being milled from a billet, were they cracked cap or like inline rods?

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The rods were from billets because we didn't have forgings at that point. The project had not been approved for production tooling until somewhat later. They were cracked right from the start.

How strong are billet rods versus forged?
Do they need to be bigger?

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Originally Posted by powerabout

How strong are billet rods versus forged?
Do they need to be bigger?

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I don't think we should be getting into this kind of a discussion here on Jackie's thread. If you'll ask it again on the Merc V6 history thread I'll be glad to answer there. Thanks

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Originally Posted by rckid74

I don't think we should be getting into this kind of a discussion here on Jackie's thread. If you'll ask it again on the Merc V6 history thread I'll be glad to answer there. Thanks

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Seeing as how I have a vested interest in the motor———- and I am one of the custodians and it’s one of the tricks this particular old fart gets up to. I would be happy for the pair of you to hang around and answer any and all questions about old blue

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Originally Posted by jackiewilson

Seeing as how I have a vested interest in the motor———- and I am one of the custodians and it’s one of the tricks this particular old fart gets up to. I would be happy for the pair of you to hang around and answer any and all questions about old blue

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OK Jackie! This isn't exactly about old racers, but I'm willing if you are.
Are billet rods better than forged? I don't know for sure but if they were both made of the same alloy, I'd prefer the forged because forging forces the grain structure in the steel to flow around the eyes on both ends of the rod and this should improve the fatigue life. But if you aren't going to be putting umpteen million miles on the engine, then billets will work just fine.

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Originally Posted by rckid74

OK Jackie! This isn't exactly about old racers, but I'm willing if you are.
Are billet rods better than forged? I don't know for sure but if they were both made of the same alloy, I'd prefer the forged because forging forces the grain structure in the steel to flow around the eyes on both ends of the rod and this should improve the fatigue life.

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Thar ya go———- you learn something new everyday——— looking at it from a know nothing layman’s point of view I would go for the milled billet———- no reasons I can give you——— just a gut feeling and some common sense reasoning.
surely there are less flaws in a large billet you can mill six rods out of, than six forged rods?
Just me being cranky and argumentative on a subject of which I know nothing!

here's a weird one....
the rods in the F1v8 are not cracked, 2 separate machined pieces, I dont understand that technology.

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Originally Posted by powerabout

here's a weird one....
the rods in the F1v8 are not cracked, 2 separate machined pieces, I dont understand that technology.

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I'm not sure what engine you're talking about. When you say F1, I assume you're talking F1H20. But I thought those were all 2.5 Merc V6's. But the V8 must be OMC's big 2-stroke. F1 cars had a V8 several years ago but I don't think that's it. It matters if we're 2-stroke or 4-stroke. Straighten me out please.

Got the blood results back today.
Turns out the “Athritis” is running riot through all my joints.
I had already told them I wasn’t old enough to have arthritis .
Put both hands on the desk and drop your pants————- heard that three times in the last five months ,whist I have a very nice,tight, and much admired rear end——— I hate it being used as a pin cushion.
So,with these 150 mph painkillers——- steroids and morphine in all the high places—— I’m expecting wonderment and ease.
Its a great relief to finally know what’s been keeping me out of the shop for so long———.

OLD Blue was originally mounted on a inline 6 tower and foot. As it is still today. A special adaptor plate was cast to accomplish this. Pulling the powerhead off and putting it on a 1750 would make it into something it is not.

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Originally Posted by FUJIMO

...Agreed. Got ta go original. It will cost a couple thousand or so to do it, but worth it in the end. Only way to do it, that I can think of, is to search out an original 1976 V-1750 & build the rest of Old Blue's powerhead, and the rest of a complete motor, with that. Not too hard. There are still a few out there. Some mounted on boats, that might have to be bought along with the motor, but not much choice any more. Sell off the boat, etc. Look in the freshwater states, and they will come apart to be restored, no problem. One trick though, is getting one with the first generation gearcase design. This is it...http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNj..._id=880000500F

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Originally Posted by milkdud

OLD Blue was originally mounted on a inline 6 tower and foot. As it is still today. A special adaptor plate was cast to accomplish this. Pulling the powerhead off and putting it on a 1750 would make it into something it is not.

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Dont ever worry in that direction——-mark has done some wonderful restoration work on boats and engines ,
Old Blue will never be anything else other than what it is.
Yes, we may need a little help from our friends———- but when it’s done,everyone will be happy

Finally got a good nights sleep———- think it’s the relief of not having to worry whether or not you got the dreaded “Lurgy”,
Think the HAPPY JABBY might have helped.
Time to get out into the real world.

Happy new year to my friend “Rotory John” Sheldon.
I know you did not receive the tunnel boat I sent you, because I did.
Would appear Fedex did not have a contact telephone number——- so, in their wisdom, they sent it back to sender. Now how about that for quick thinking——— Lightning reflexes——- present day thinking——- using all the up to date technology. AND IT TOOK LESS THAN TWO MONTHS.
Bet a pound to a pincha Kit Carson never had that problem with the Pony Express ——— Or Dale Robertson with Wells Fargo, ——- somehow the mail would have made it ,
Get-it off to you SAP John——— pease send telephone number via PM.