Have you seen this MGB shop. Doing restorations and restomods. Read an article about them found it interesting.
https://snakeriverclassics.com/
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Have you seen this MGB shop. Doing restorations and restomods. Read an article about them found it interesting.
https://snakeriverclassics.com/
Not that far in yet.
I am seeing that to do these motors stock is cheap, to hot rod one?
Not so much!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Forkin' Crazy
Actually, I have.
And I like them a lot.
Pays homage to the MG marque while applying current tech to it.
I really like their motor of choice too.
As I go down this path I continue to remind myself, this ain’t about going fast.
I sold that car.
This car stock, at 90 hp was an absolute hoot!
W/rebuilt suspension and 150 hp, I hope to be content w/it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Onetime
Best oil I ever ran across was Schaeffer Oil. When I was working my first job as a diesel mech. when it came time to overhaul any of the diesel's running this oil the rod and main bearings looked brand new. The cylinder liners still had great cross hatch on them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Forkin' Crazy
When they switched oil to one of the big brands, I forget which one, when it came time to overhaul a diesel engine everything looked like it needed changing.
When I install the 383 I'm building for my truck I'm gonna switch from Shell Rotella T6 to Schaeffer SynShield OTR Plus.
Schaeffer Oil---> https://www.amazon.com/Schaeffer-Man...st_sto_dp&th=1
I may have missed it. Are you supercharging?Quote:
Originally Posted by Instigator
I shouldn't say anything but he has a bunch of performance decals. Each one is worth at least 5hp so...:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryStrawn
Nope.
N.A.
I like old school and as little complication as possible.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryStrawn
150HP from a BMC B takes a lot of imagination. :smiletest:
I used to run that in my diesels, but after putting 300K on my dually on regular oil, I figured it wasn't worth it unless you stretched the changes out to at least 10-15K.Quote:
Originally Posted by CDave
Brad Penn, or now called Penn has zinc and phosphorous in it. More or less made for older engines without emissions.
https://penngrade1.com/
Nice article.
https://rislone.com/blog/engine-oil/...older-engines/
Yes, sir.
As you know, I’m OK with swimming up stream.
Getting accurate info has been an issue though.
Lots of old school guys that only do it one way, same as has been done since they were new, 50 yrs ago.
Then there’s the SCCA crowd that it is limited to what they can do by class rules, which I have none of.
Then you have the Brits that list Hp at the rear wheels, which they call the rolling road and have wildly variable #s.
I really wanted to team up w/a shop, and still may, for parts and machine work in exchange for info.
From what I can tell, the best stock B (18V) motor made 102 hp at the crank.
So if I can add 50% to that w/my mods, which is fairly standard fare to most stock motors, I’m done.
Bottom line is, I’m having a blast and frankly could care less where I end up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryStrawn
Forgot how much fun drum brakes were!
Rear suspension bushing upgrade/replacement is done, as is conversion to modern, adjustable shocks and of course brakes.
I should now have brakes on all 4 corners compared to the one when I bought it!
Was 65 here in Ohio today and I came close to dropping it on the ground to go for a ride.
My dad had a bug eye,,,,, I sat in the rear SEAT....?:p......Went up to the state park,,,,,, what a ride......150 HP.....?.....I have a Fiat 124 spyder that I am going to get going Sooooome day..:rolleyes:,,,,,Was thinking of puttting on 2 Merc carbs from a 2.5..... the pumpers..... Kinda like webers.......;).....
Ah, brakes... More important than the go button. All of my calipers have been restored by professionals, new rubber lines, pads, and hardware. Needless to say it put a quite a dent in my pocketbook! I DID reseal the master myself though, :) And my parking brake is a DRUM assembly INSIDE the rear calipers. And very effective!
Looks awesome!!! Simple things can be so fun!
Here is a Deal.......:cheers:..........;)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/38541204853...75.c101224.m-1
That is a deal for the able bodied
Austin’s are good looking cars
there was a local one around with a small block ford in it
very cool
That’s a 1/2 hr from me!
Looks like a never ending money pit to me.
One of the coolest of the cool to be sure though!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave S
A lot of those old cars had a lot of wood in them. I wonder if that one had wooden floor "boards".
I know I had a guy wanting me to restore some old British car. Triumph maybe? The doors skins were sheet metal and the door frames were WOOD!!!!
I told him, "Sorry, I am not a "car" pender.... LOL!
Three steps forward, two steps back.
I have all the front suspension off, disassembled and autopsied.
One thing for sure, all of us w/old classic cars, I’d say to expect this.
Supposed to be 70* here tomorrow so thought I might get a ride until finding this broken spring.
And Paul, you’re right, some of the early British stuff was framed in wood!
Detroit likey has or could make some coils to your liking.
Just use GM diesel 40 and a bottle of EOS for your additivesQuote:
Originally Posted by Forkin' Crazy
One of the best surprises after buying this car has been discovering mossmotors.com!
They have everything I’ve needed so far and are cheap!
Springs are $39 per and in the way!
I think I have $40 in all the urethane bushings!
Part of the fun of this project, besides how it easy it is work on is how affordable.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FMP
This is what popped into my head. I was thinking what is so great about them and your MG.
Moss Motors---> https://www.moreatmoss.com/
Then I did a search and the other one is very cool. The other Moss Motors---> https://mossmotors.com/about-us
Ha!
They have a separate catalog for each British brand w/a parts breakdown in each one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDave
Sadly Moss has never stocked Lotus part. But from day 1 almost they have been into Miata parts
Had a good day today and front suspension is done, less springs which I hope to see Saturday.
At this point, not only is it faster than stock but should handle and stop way better than new.
Can’t wait!
Course, being Ohio, it was 72* and gorgeous today, supposed to be 42 and cloudy Saturday!
Makes it fun.Quote:
Originally Posted by Instigator
Are you going with different height, rates? How about the shocks to compliment, % in/out .
Is there choice?
All stock for now and upgrade from there.
I want to know what this car was like new, Al though I am slightly beyond that.
Told a friend, I am channeling a 25 yr old engineer, in ‘1980 w/a 6 yr old MG, funds to do what he wants, w/a shop in his back yard.
Keeping true to the British car lineage, what would he have done?
Thats what my vision is.
I have to have a vision before I can tackle a project.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FMP
I changed front springs on my 72 Chevelle from small block springs to big block springs with a homemade spring compressor. Boy was that dangerous. Got one done and then went and rented the proper tool. Looked funny driving to the Rental store with one big block spring and one small block spring on the front.
Since then if upgrading front coil springs or the springs on struts, I let someone else do it. Figured out it's worth buying loaded struts rather than trying to replace just the strut if you are staying stock.
I was lucky w/my front springs.
I put a bottle Jack under the lower A arm while I unbolted it’s surroundings then lowered the Jack/A arm and the spring dropped out.
Now, we’ll see how easy the new ones go in!
Just realized I had them shipped UPS which doesn’t deliver on Saturday so I won’t get them until Monday.
Argh!
Changed several front springs at my shop back in the day. I hated spring compressors. You have to watch them like a hawk!!! And keep them oiled well and kept clean. Even then they were a PITA!
Seems every time I used one it would walk around and I would have to go back from scratch.
I would think a MG's springs would be fairly easy to do. The small block springs weren't bad getting out but those big block springs were a monster.
It's all a matter of how stiff the springs are.
My brother and I tried to change front struts on his wife's MDX but even renting the right tools we couldn't do it. So we took them to a spring shop. The guy who did the work told us his brand new machine almost couldn't compress those springs.
Glad we gave up and took it to a shop.
When it came time to change them on their other MDX he bought loaded struts. Much easier and really no difference in price.
Had zero concerns w/installing the springs until reading Cdaves post!
Doh!
And agreed, they’re baby springs compared to one for a big block Chevy!
In the shot w/o the grill you can see the intake for the ram air.
As evidence of its effect, I get to mess w/the infamous SU metering needles to cure a flat spot in the mid range.
Work/$ is picking up so I’ll start collecting parts for the hot rod motor next.
Car now drives great!
Not only that, it looks fantastic!!! Makes my P car look like a turd! :o
It does look sharp. That is going to be fun to drive.:thumbsup:
Just got all the parts in the rebuild my steering; including a steering box. Oh boy what fun.:o
Do they make a brace with an extra bearing on the end like they do my Dodges?Quote:
Originally Posted by CDave
Back to my SU Bible for tuning out the mid range bog.
They really are bad ass carbs!
Weighed the car today too.
For a ‘74 they list 2300 and I weighed 2160 w/a 1/4 tank of gas and spare/Jack in the trunk.
Was pretty sure I was making headway weight wise.
I have no idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by Forkin' Crazy
2160 with the new power that should be a really, really fun car! :cool: