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removed the remains of the foam on port side
Attachment 438386
Printable View
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removed the remains of the foam on port side
Attachment 438386
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deep sponson
Attachment 438390
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will need to remove the paint and the 1" lip residuals from the removal of stringer system
Attachment 438392
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did some trimming of the 1" lip remains from the stringer removal
Attachment 438776
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anyone know how thick the balsa core is (if any) on the pad of the Vegas XT ?
exploratory holes will be made
Attachment 438778
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thanks, good to know
it makes sense because the transom drain plug is around 1" higher than the hull bottom (of the pad)
if the Hydrostream builders were consistent, the skin above the pad's core should be the same as the skin cover the foam in the sponsons?
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Thats funny right there. LoL You would think but these things werent built all that well with how fast Howard was cranking them out and consistency was not a thing really. They were built to look good and go fast inexpensively and Howard even said he didnt expect to see them around even 20 years later and here we are, over 40 years later and people still fixin em up like crazy. Some years were built better, heck even some days they were built better than other days. My Vector has poorly matted glass that was dry in a lot of places and some areas had thicker glass over the core than other areas.
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We got core
a very wet core
I tot for a minute there I was cutting a hole on my hull bottoms running surface :)
Attachment 438842
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not its not chocolate brownie
Attachment 438846
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the core is about 1/2" exactly as Hippie indicated
Attachment 438850
Looks good to me , cover that hole back up :D
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yeah exactly,
"yes we got core, now cover that up!...no one will ever see it"
I'm glad to see the core, I'm not glad to embark on more work, but we're given another chance to make this hull better
def no more wood will be placed in this hull
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I'm thinking of using closed cell foam
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I like the idea of a composite core but the strength is considerably less than balsa so thats something to keep in mind during layup. I have chewed on this a bit and figure that the problem isn't the balsa, its the sealing of the core thats essential. With todays epoxies and putting on 3 or more good coats I think the balsa could be protected quite well, certainly better than original. That along with careful boat storage and maintenance has me thinking balsa is still the better route for me but I could be convinced to go composite still... Really curious to see how you make out Noli
Any new core is exponentially better than rotten core though
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balsa core def ranks among the top 3 for compression when its tubes are positioned 90* to the hull's bottom
but people get sloppy, folks will penetrate the covering of the balsa core and there goes another core down the drain
additionally, composite cores are very expensive
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What are the top contenders?
"Definitely among the top 3?" I don't have a chart handy but I've never seen any of the composite core manufacturers even claim that those products have anywhere near the compressive or shear strength of balsa. Not saying balsa is the only way to go. Many composites have been used successfully for many years. Some of the best built new SOB hulls are still built with balsa for a reason though...
Divinycell, Corecell, Kledgecell are some of the top contenders. Also Baltek for end grain balsa :D
No matter what materials you end up using the preparation and application are the most important parts. All composite can be done poorly and not last as long/take as much abuse as a balsa/ply build done correctly...
I rebuilt my Vulture with marine ply and balsa. Plus balsa is much much cheaper. The way I figure, my Vulture was lasted 30+ built poorly, it should last way past another 30 rebuilt properly and much better. It really all comes down to preference I guess.
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Like Hippie said, its more of a preference
I talk with builders regularly and they're all going the foam direction
so I will do the same, they have sold me on foam for now :)
coosa, believe or not is a foam, but very dense and again very costly
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IM glad Im used H80 on my rebuild, its very easy to work with and very light, when glassed very strong aswell. Seems to be a great alternative, I have used 3/4 scored and scrimmed and 3/4 solid sheets. Coosa is nice also, just use a mask when cutting either its very fine dust cant be good to breathe in.
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that's what builder-X uses on their hull running surface on their bigger models
and the smaller models, they use H60
cool!
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TwzteD, please share some pics
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I too would like to use scored, scrimmed, and perforated ==> http://www.diabgroup.com/en-GB/Produ...ishing-options
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Sure what would you like to see?
My bulkheads, floor, gussets, splashwell, all 3/4 h80 transom and knees 3/4 Coosa 26.
Floor has coosa plugs with t nuts glassed to the bottom so bolts can be used for strength and so it's water tight, I added foam to my boat since 13' in the ocean and don't want water to get it wet. Cap was cored with 3/4 scored h80. I aslo built a seat all out of h80.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74...psu4kxslx7.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74...psgb8uqbmr.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74...pst4c7fcnp.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74...pstlmzxrrf.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74...psz5c8qt8q.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74...psonxolohj.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74...psamprcxyj.jpg
TwzteD, what an AMAZING build.
Unreal.
BTW, my cap was paper thin, trying to save weight, i cleaned it up and didnt add a fresh layer of glass to it, i put core right down on the old stuff, glassed over it. after it was cured i put it back on the boat, my 225 lb buddy stood on it and bounced a few times, didnt even move or make any noise and it wasnt even glued or tabbed in, and i didnt even have gussets in at that point, pretty strong stuff, i glued it all in with bedding compound, spread it with a fine tooth trowl and squished the excess out by starting in the middle with a rib roller.
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beautiful!
who built your interior cushions?
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A guy locally, did a great job considering it was a solid glass seat that was not easy to staple to.
Nice pics.
Used the 1/2'' HS-80 divinny cell on my V-King years ago. No problems. It will be louder (hull noise) when going over small chop and ripples. Penske core board 12# density, 1/2'' for floor and 26# 3/4'' for transom. 3'' thick overall on trans. No problems....I have run 505# optimax and EFI 3.0 mercs and have jumped the boat many,many times.
TwzteD wow that builds looks bomb proof. Very impressive, do you have a build thread somewhere?
Hippe thats pretty much what I was thinking. If the original lasted 30 years, my recore with balsa should last at least the same. The idea of rot proof core sure sounds appealing though
Yea in my signature, it's the third build in the fiberglass section. Here's the link. Boat is nearing completion but not done yet.
https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...ld-amp-Repower