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i love my 22 velocity .. great boat
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Yea it runs well. Mid 70s. I have a new prop coming for it see how it does come race day
Think 11" of set back is ok on a 22' .. I have a 7" bracket and a 4" jack plate I want to run .. Putting in a floor and transom and rebuilding the boat now and would like some one who knows whats best on this... thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by northernoffshore
I run 12" of setback with a 300 promax. It all depends on what kind of waters your running in. The further you go back the worse it will run in rough water. In rough waters I just keep it tucked in.
Attachment 356236I had to do the same. Good luck!
how much worse in the rough will it run..?? should i just use the jack plate which is about 4"... i will probably end up running a 2.5 but could end up with a 3.0 litre eventually ......I would like to eliminate the well on the transom and make that a flat piece and can do it with the bracket . my last 22 only went 62-64 mph with a 4 or 5" jack plate so it handled pretty good for all around.pics are my 1st 1..Quote:
Originally Posted by upononeo4
Quote:
Originally Posted by northernoffshore
Im not too sure because I've always ran 12". But a HUGE factor is engine height. The higher the better. Of course you can be too high so you have to find the sweet spot but that made a huge difference for me. Boat handled the sh*t when it was 2-3" bellow the pad. Now I'm about 3/4" above the pad and the boat almost drives it self. Best I've seen was 86mph 10gallons of fuel and by myself. It's an 80mph boat all day.
also .. who runs trim tabs on their boats ... are k planes overkill and not really needed.....????
...Very, very few 22's came from the factory with tabs. Steve Stepp will also tell you, they are not needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by northernoffshore
I have that same setup for my velocity as well, 7" bracket and 4" plate but I'm waiting for my hull to be painted, I will Prob be running a 2.5 for now until I sell my 24 superboat and use my 300xs for the velocity
Quote:
Originally Posted by g-guap
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I love my velocity!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by upononeo4
i found this pic of the set up i have... from the islands somewhere
it looks like you added an access hatch for the fuel tank on the floor?? super nice boat you have.....Quote:
Originally Posted by upononeo4
Quote:
Originally Posted by northernoffshore
Thank you! Yes I did. After having to do my stringers and floor due to the gas tank leaking. I wanted to make it very easy to access the gas tank.
Right at 70 with my 250 Merc on a 4" hydraulic jack plate. All original 1990 I bought in Michigan in 2013. Had a 2.5 EFI on it that I sold on S&F and re-rigged it with the 2004 250. Owned it 9 years and was my favorite rig. Was still solid and looked "new" in 2012 when I sold it.
i remember hitting 4' swells at 40 plus mph heading back up the Chesapeake Bay with the motor tucked in and doing just fine
Nice to see you guys taking care of, restoring, preserving and enjoying Steve Stepp's signature creation. They look great.
I saw your pics on 4sale you posted... thanks I am going to copy your transom mods and make a removable cut out for the tank like uponone04 boat.. I think I might have a kelvar boat because there is a lot of yellow under the dash where I can see bare glass....the rest by the transom is all painted blue and can't see back thereQuote:
Originally Posted by 85nova
so it starts .. tore out the floor and transom so far
What year is your hull? My 98 looked to have a bit thicker stringers.One thing you may look into is moving the tank a bit back.I moved mine back a bit and was able to make in floor cooler as well as move the weight back a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by northernoffshore
The hull is an 1984.. the tank is all the way back already with the cooler, and in good shape.. going to make an access to the tank in the floor to it like yours and coal tar it and put it back in .. the floor and stringers will be foam board with molded non skid, with marine plywood for the transom at 3-4" thick.... then I plan to make a fiberglass faring 2/3's the windshield height and glass it in... the windshield is cheap and always ends up broken .. I have a decent 2.4 mod vp that was on it so that might end up being a temporary motor unless it sells
Your 84 would definitely be a much lighter boat then mine.My transom and stringers were in good shape when I got into it.I wanted to eliminate the splash well to be able to add much larger knee braces.The original on the newer hulls are fairly small.Upon tearing it snow balled on me and I decided to do the tank and cooler as well as a few other things.I talked to Steve Stepping about tank location and he said to bring it back as far as you could and still keep a bilge.He said the tanks placement varied over the years as well as from boat to boat.Didnt sound like it was a big controlled placement.
nothing but rot in all the stringers.... at least the bottom core is dry .... at least it will be done right and the junk comes out easy enough
What are you doing to keep the hull straight?
The trailer that it sits on has long flat bunks.. am hoping this will hold it in place.....i will check the bottom when im doneQuote:
Originally Posted by JamesGang
fuel tank bottom half was covered with a fiberglass sheet from the factory ... this was under it .. so now i need a fuel tank for it.. any suggestions ??
I had a new gas tank made exactly the same as the original one and laid a strip of rubber padding down on the fiberglass and than the gas tank on top of that.Quote:
Originally Posted by northernoffshore
Fuel tank in my 85 was the same way, not rotted out, was glasses over on the bottom, tank was actually mint but had a new one made anyway, just had a local guy make it
Better to make sure its straight before you put your stringers in.
Did you know your boat has a twin. And it will be at the Ct. river run this weekend. It now has a Merc 300XS on it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesGang
Nice boats! How does that boat run with the 300xs?
So far 85 but it probably has a little more in with some more prop testing and maybe a gear ratio change. He currently has 1.62 gears in a sporty and a 26" Pro Max.
"Right at 70 with my 250 Merc on a 4" hydraulic jack plate. All original 1990 I bought in Michigan in 2003."
Sorry, correction to my previous post, bought the Velocity in 2003...
Only 85 out of it with the 300xs? Is it a stepp hull or regal?
Stepp Hull. The 300XS just doesn't have what the X has. He's perfectly happy with what its doing. Pretty much what he expected. If we did a gear ratio change and play with props it would probably only get him to 87. Then even with the Dave Bush kit maybe 89. Not worth all that in his book. He likes it the way it is, good on gas and dependable.
Dang I have a dbr 300xs I have on my 24 superboat that I was going to put on my 85 22 velocity when I was done rebuilding the boat and was hoping for low 90's
always wondered if that was this boat .. but i guess it is a twin .. how cool !!.. got my transom done and found out the hour meter read 35 hours only ?? I actually think it could be all that was on it.....here is the transom 3.5 "thick ..4" taller.... my tank from sunshine should be done soon..Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesGang
some more progress on the boat .. foam stringers in .. floor pieces done with non skid...sunshine marine 50 gal. tank.....switch panels .. and a 250xb and some dana tabs for it.. still a long way to go
Hate to rain on your parade but for knees to be effective you want the tied in to the stringer system not just stacked on top where it would be easy to sheer away. When doing stringers it would have been good to make them part of it. When adding to good stringers I would bond along side and go forward to the 2nd bulkhead then glass in and do a new shorter bulkhead to the knee. Once the floor is glassed on top everything is locked and the knee can't sheer from the stringer system. Its not too late for yo to something more substantial along side your stringers.
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Here's a picture of knee bonded in before glass.
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This is part of the stringer.
Here's the knees glassed in and then the floor glassed in. Couldn't find a picture with the back bulkheads in before the floor went down. Your job looks like it's coming out so good why not knock out those back two bulkheads, put in a real set of knees and then put the bulkheads back in.
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