Does any1 know of a 1650-1750-1850-1800 ect or Lab Hull and trailer only For sale??
Printable View
Does any1 know of a 1650-1750-1850-1800 ect or Lab Hull and trailer only For sale??
Go back a few posts didnt Mercules put his on ebay 1750 ??
How about this one?
Bullet 4 sale
Would love to get that Adam but need a Social Boat, My Cousin is after one.
I got my old 1500 bullet hull and trailer that i was considering selling. i know she is a little one that will need work but was looking to get what i paid for it $2k to fund some more work on my new wellcraft.
the motor was a 150 merc that had a hole in it (from piston). this motor has been pulled and tossed after it was taken from salt water then not cleaned so was all corroded and rusted.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/CANABL/0757_1.jpg
Matra - yeah, get that motor up. The porpoising will require some trial and error if you're using a mechanical plate. I've found that just 5mm height change can make all the difference in the world around bends especially with porpoising.
I'd bring the motor up to say 50mm below the pad and work from there. Work in 5mm increments. I know that doesn't sound like much but for each 5mm, you should test holeshot, social speed handling and smoothness, cornering at speed left and right, and outright top speed. Try and conduct the same test with each height change. Map out a run for yourself and go once up, and once back. Write down everything so after you've changed 8 million things, you can look back and see what worked and what didn't.
Remember, you need to be able to still retain your holeshot and going too high will kill it. You should see a lot better top end once you get the motor up as well.
I'd be happy to help you with that for a day if you wanted to come up to Windsor...
Oz :thumbsup:
just before i sold my bullet, i raised the motor as suggested a good 3 inch. still the centre line was about 4 inch below the pad. the motor revved quicker but would free rev as the prop broke the surface, is this normal operation? i dropped her back a notch as when i would turn it would also surface. just was worried about over revving the engine from when it was loaded to breaking the surface.
The higher the engine, the more it will break when it rolls over onto plane. Most engines have a rev limiter built into the mso you can't launch pistons. Depending on the prop type and setup, you can also "catch" it as the boat rolls over. You back off just for a second which then allows the prop to bite and away you go...
Oz
If any of you guys want the best allround social ski, tube, cruise, 60mph skirace or 70 mph ski race prop look for a prop called a torque shift. It will pull fat blokes out of the water as easy as **** and will be only a few mph slower than your best prop.
This was my old 1750, first boat I owned. Love to have it back. Used to hit 93 -94 back in the late eighties. Excuse the quality of the pic, took a pic of an old photo the ex blew up for me for a birthday present. It's still on the wall in the kitchen. My son call's it mummies boat cos I got the Euro!
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...7/IMG_1093.jpg
Man that thing looked clean! I talked to the bloke who's now selling Torque-Shift props a couple of months back. Land & Sea were selling them but the foundry burned down and they never bothered going back into production with them so the only ones left are new/old stock.
The guy who's now selling them (Bob Merriam) is acting as a trade centre for all the different components that go into them - blades, hubs, cams, etc. When I told him the sort of revs we would be turning for 60 or 70mph class he advised against using the Torque Shift because it was never designed for loads that heavy. I agree though as a social prop they are pretty amazing.
What I did come up with when I was searching though was a company called AeroStar Marine who sell a similar prop called the Power Pitch. Unlike the Torque Shift prop that used plastic and had a shift range of 13-32" (or 12-26" for the smaller version), the Power Pitch prop uses all s/steel componentry and is limited to a range of 6" of "shift" from low pitch to high pitch. They can craft blades to any starting pitch required so if you wanted you could have a 26" prop that shifts to a 32" prop at speed. The other thing that makes the Power Pitch different is instead of relying on the cam system of the Torque Shift, they have a dial on the back of their prop that you rotate to dial in your "shift" RPM. You can make it shift up at 4,000rpm or you can make it shift at 6,000rpm, what ever you like...
The downside is the cost - at US $1,995 I don't want to be a guinea pig!
Oz
Have a close look at the deck. That is the way they should of been made! 2.4 bridgeport on avgas, lucky to be here! With the torqe shift the observer had to hang on. Was cruising around Lake Eppalock, remember when it had water in it! Mate and me, hooning then pulled up to talk/drink to some mates then idled away, tramped it and looked across and my mate was gone, straight over the back!
Acceleration was incredible, durability was good until you modded them and then it went to ****e. Last ran mine against a seacraft with a 6 ltr at the drags on the stv, thru a blade at half track and cruised over the line still in front. 8500 will do that!
Hi there everyone. got some more pics to show you all.
OZ' i took the bullet down to the gold coast and seen old mate about my steering. What im getting is the bull horn type hydrylic steering because if i am going to change to a bigger or different type of motor in the future i dont have to worry about upgrading the steering. + this type is very user freindly (good for the other half to operate).
The more time i spend in this boat the better i am getting at it.
Thank you to all of you have have posted me with advice and helpful hints as well,
in one pic you will see the type of steering it has at the moment the steering shop said (no wonder your having troubles that type of setup is only good for speeds of up to 80kms). it goes in 2 weeks time to get done