is nikasil and chrome the same thing?

Best options: If you gonna turn 8000 rpm and above you can go Nickasil on AL but otherwise it is just a total waste of money. I been using iron sleeves for years now and most folks do unless it is raced professionally where winning is more important than expense.. Iron sleeves are easy to re bore to larger size or replace a sleeve.. I sometimes just bore a block just enough to clean up a true cyl in the aluminum and have James make me a sleeve to fit it instead of going a .020 or larger over size and it leaves a lot more room to repair the engine again later.. Advance Sleeve Corp can also do that but it takes a while to get it back.. Advanced sleeves are nicer and better quality than the LA Sleeves.. JMO..

Why did the old 80's 225 hp nicasil Blocks go for 800 hrs without having to be re ringed . I had a 20 ft checkmate with a 225 hp and drove it hard for ten years and sold it to a friend and he's still running it to date. When it was new it went 74 mph and now it does about 70 . Can anybody explain why this engine can go for this period of time without new rings and a 2.5 260 hp only lasts 100 hr before a re ring is necessary? WTH?

The 80’s 225 was chrome bore lasted forever Nicasil was used in the formula mod vp engines for race use and then bridge port and then 2.5 race motors

So are you saying that nickasil is not as tough on the rings?

Nic cyl and correct rings have to b replaced 100 hrs or so. I think Jay said more abrasive
Chrome cyl and correct ring last forever

Just the difference in race and recreational

Nicasil is tough on rings hence the gold plating on rings ,chrome is friendly on rings is why they last for 800 or so hours I had a 1987 200 black max chrome bore with about 800 hours I put in new rings and sold the boat new buyer put on another 800 hours and sold it

So if you use a race motor recreationally the rings last awhile if all conditions are good like temp., fuel oil mix, and keep an eye on things??? With a chrome bore . I have a 260 that will not be raced Has had all new stuff , Rechrome Block new pistons and rings an all other parts like reeds seals gaskets bearings ,ton of $$$$$$ No Mods , Will the rings last if all is correct?

Chips you are saying 260 “rechromed” you are referring and ment to say replating with Nicom not rechrome .Race engines with Nicom bores using TiN coated chrome faced ring will NOT live as long as a steel bores with chrome rings period ! Race engine’s bore - ring prep is crucial to even make that combo live , I am a stickler in assembling motors with round bores and installing round pistons without it the motor will NEVER make the power and enjoy a long life . I suggest breaking motor in on all petroleum then run Red Line at 32:1 over 8000 and 40:1 under 8000 rpms , super unleaded as well as use and abuse will cut short ring life I’m building 2 of these this week 1 -26 & 1-Drag Good parts , oil and fuel helps thier life . Many many tricks to assemble these that’s not on any manual ...

Any questions don’t hesitate to call 832 597 2603 cst
Jay

Silicon is what sandpaper is made of. Nickel is well nickel. Chromium is chrome.

Love old post.

Race hashing also adds power on iron. Eats rings as well since it doesn’t breakin well. Not to much trouble with pinned rings. 10-30* hashes instead of 40-60* old dragster trick. Inboards

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Originally Posted by Jay Smith

Chips you are saying 260 “rechromed” you are referring and ment to say replating with Nicom not rechrome .Race engines with Nicom bores using TiN coated chrome faced ring will NOT live as long as a steel bores with chrome rings period ! Race engine’s bore - ring prep is crucial to even make that combo live , I am a stickler in assembling motors with round bores and installing round pistons without it the motor will NEVER make the power and enjoy a long life . I suggest breaking motor in on all petroleum then run Red Line at 32:1 over 8000 and 40:1 under 8000 rpms , super unleaded as well as use and abuse will cut short ring life I’m building 2 of these this week 1 -26 & 1-Drag Good parts , oil and fuel helps thier life . Many many tricks to assemble these that’s not on any manual ...

Any questions don’t hesitate to call 832 597 2603 cst
Jay

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I inherited a ca. 1982 2.4 ltr oval port ModVP motor with what I perceive to be chrome bores. The bores still look good, although the previous owner lost the ringlands on 3 cylinders. I would like to rebuild the motor. Can you give any advice regarding the replacement piston set. I cannot send the motor, as I live in South Africa. Wolfgang

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Originally Posted by wolfgangb

I inherited a ca. 1982 2.4 ltr oval port ModVP motor with what I perceive to be chrome bores. The bores still look good, although the previous owner lost the ringlands on 3 cylinders. I would like to rebuild the motor. Can you give any advice regarding the replacement piston set. I cannot send the motor, as I live in South Africa. Wolfgang

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U need to make sure theres no scuffing ,and measure ,measure ,measure , lookin for straight bores , if all that gud
Then u could go with promarine or wsm imo. Both work really well. Can u post pic of block

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chips overboard

So if you use a race motor recreationally the rings last awhile if all conditions are good like temp., fuel oil mix, and keep an eye on things??? With a chrome bore . I have a 260 that will not be raced Has had all new stuff , Rechrome Block new pistons and rings an all other parts like reeds seals gaskets bearings ,ton of $$$$$$ No Mods , Will the rings last if all is correct?

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doesnt matter I ran my nic motors like a fishing motor and best I got was 114 hours and they were done ,next ring job I ran them like they were designed to be run and at 100 hrs they were done so no need to baby the 260 let er rip

Motor is out on the farm some 100 miles from here. When I next go out there i`ll take some photos. Block may have been replaced at some early stage in its life. Carries some obscure carbs: WH16, not found in any manual.
Numbering on block does not make sense either. So I took off the hemispherical, 2-piece heads. It is a 2.4 oval port, most likely pre`83.