You only need a rod and then work out how to squeeze the sides together using a 3 angles on each side of the rod. The consumer tool screws up and the factory one is spring loaded as I remember it.
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You only need a rod and then work out how to squeeze the sides together using a 3 angles on each side of the rod. The consumer tool screws up and the factory one is spring loaded as I remember it.
I have no alignment tool.
Just tryin to do it according to the book.
On most of the rods/caps I can get it flush on one side, but with a slight, feelable missalignment on the other, how is that possible?
I guess I will have to manage with the best I can do since its time to get boat in the water.
Put a small amount of pressure on the bolts, get a pencil to check the 6 alignment faces, get a tiny hammer to gently tap the cap to align it.
Thanks for the tips!
The procedure pretty much describes my work so far.
I have no problem sideways(the small alignment areas) my problem occurs along the two bigger areas. I seem to get it slick on one side, but still some off alignment on the other...
I have thought about using a clamp during the torque process.
My intention is to get the engine running after this weekend, right now I traveling to London with my 10year old son(He's about to see one of the worlds great cities for the first time)and I am trying to gather info on the process. In worst case I will have to use another rod, something I don't want to do due to my balancing effort during the rebuild.
I don't think it is possible to find an alignment tool in this country.
I managed to get them right, I think.
Since I am really close to start, I have some more questions(I might have asked similar things before..)
- Do I have anything to benefit by removing the airbox baffle due to the mods I have done(described in this thread)
- What would be the proper jet size the use, right now I have stock 62D installed.
I just realized that I have another question;
I torqued the main bearing bolts a bit to much, not that the threads got destroyed, but a bit to much according to specs(found the specs to late..)
What do you guys think, shall I loose the bolts one at a time, add new sealer and retorque them to proper specs, or just leave them as they are?
Attachment 297573Port map...
Attachment 297574Powerhead in place...
Only hours before first start!
pictures of crankcase stuffing and my ported intake;Attachment 297731Fuel hose of two sizes...
Attachment 297732No sharp bends and corners...
What a fun thread to follow.
Good luck with the first start!
+1 Thanks for sharing!!! GaryQuote:
Originally Posted by warriorcookie
Thanks guys!Quote:
Originally Posted by olboatman
Glad it made someone happy!
Make sure that you don't run ethanol those fuel hoses in the crank case counter bores will break down and end up stuck in the reeds.
Looks good
I'm sure you guys already hit this topic somewhere between page 1 and 22 but I would definitely start with 6 jet sizes up and 6 down,6 down idle and mid,6 up mains.
Thanks! I've asked the jetting question at least twice before, but with no response. Now I hve something to start with!Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbore
I didn't want to comment on jetting b/c I'm no expert but I normally start with .078 read the piston tops before running it hard then start jetting down.
.078 must be w/o airbox baffle, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by wanagofass
would that be like .068 with baffle?
I've never jetted one with the baffle. Only the new style air box. '93 and newer. I think that the motors with the baffle came jetted about .010 smaller but that is a different carb also.