I'll have to wait u till I get the starter installed and try it out again.
No no spilled fuel.
Didnt check the plugs either.
Didnt play with the fuel ball either.
Just for viewing pleasure... Here's a video
http://youtu.be/IeEW-xm9l5s
Printable View
I'll have to wait u till I get the starter installed and try it out again.
No no spilled fuel.
Didnt check the plugs either.
Didnt play with the fuel ball either.
Just for viewing pleasure... Here's a video
http://youtu.be/IeEW-xm9l5s
:thumbsup: The hat :thumbsup: Sounds good, I don't think it was turning as much as the tach is telling you , needs more prop but if you load it with people those ports are high , I hope it's just the pump , check the plugs after a few hrs running , was the temp good after the run , sounded better that second you gave it a bit more . Aces man .
Those were all videos from yesterday before the starter died and I got towed home haha.
Two stupid stories. One- I only had 3/4 throttle because of a couple wires getting tangled with the shifting mechanisms. That's fixed.
Also found why i prob couldn't pull start it. When i removed the cowl, I must have knocked off one of the plug wires. That's was prob an issue. Noticed it today when I pulled the cover to check bowl height.
Hurry up Amazon and get me my new starter!!!
And thanks on the hat!!! I thought it was pretty cool too!!!
Looking at part numbers for the lower unit - Mine is a 2.31 gear ratio in the 90hp Force outboard. I wonder If I can just find the Fwd, Reverse, & pinion gears and swap them out, rather than buying a whole new lower unit. I’d get a new Cam (to shift), and a new seal kit. The part numbers for everything else in the gear case is identical. This might be a question for the Technical section...
The 120 Force, and Mercury 115hp both have the 2.07 ratio... Here's the part #'s...
Reference info off of Crowley marine – 1995 Force 90hp and 120hp.
Part name ............2.31 gears (90hp)......... 2.07 gears (120Force/115Merc).
Forward gear...........43-12634T02.....................43-19673T2
Reverse gear ..........43-12635T.........................43-19671T
Pinion gear ............ 43-44484T (13tooth)..........43-881260A3
Clutch......................52-822539T (3 jaw)...........52-822539T (3 jaw)..........<--SAME
Prop shaft................12238T.............................12238T.............................<--SAME
Drive shaft...............45-43031A1 (20")...............45-43031A1 (20").............<--SAME
Sure but new gears are $, plus the set up, a complete good lower or 120 with lower , less trouble . Try a higher pitch first with good rake . Do you have a prop swap try then buy in your area?
Just researching options.. I know it's $$$. About $400 cheapest I've found for a gear set. I wish there was an external way to tell what gears were inside the Merc lower units. There's tons of units at the local Marine Consignment shop.
I don't know of any local try/buy shops around here. I'll have to ask around. A lot of the local boat yards and marinas are kinda anal.
Mark both shafts, turn the drive and count how many turns for one prop shaft turn. Yours takes 2.3 turns for one prop turn. The seller should have them marked and checked , pressure tested for leaks and checked the shafts are true as well , and check for excessive end play and updown in the prop shaft.
I'm going to swing by this afternoon and take a look for a lower unit. Gotta get home quick today though - GirlFriend has been stuck on the couch sick all day.
Just looked at your video. Wonder if it's electrical? If there are wires that follow the spark advance as the throttle is moved from idle to wot could there be an intermittent open or loose connection? Sure seems suspicious it happening at a certain throttle setting...every time?
James
Good point , could be a triger wire that shorts only at a certain point in the rotation. I think he checked every wire with great care, right??? None chafing on the underside of the flywheel ???
Good suggestions to check! I'm not going to be able to look until tomorrow afternoon when I get the starter in the mail.
I did a heck of a job wire-looming and shrink wrapping to protect just those issues.
Take a close look at the trigger wires that come from the rear under the flywheel. There is a sheet metal shield, and a window that the trigger wires come through, but I Shrink wrapped the wires, and even put wire loom on the edge of the sheet metal to better protect chaffing. I really can't get solid answers for electrical vs fuel until I get back out there this weekend.
Also, I have a friend of a friend who has a 13x24" prop he's going to let me borrow.
On a side note, I got in some 1/16" x 27 NPT stainless plugs from Grainger, I might block off the top few water pickup holes.
I'm almost 100% sure that head has temp sensor that will signal a horn or light or buzzer at the helm if you pass a certain temp . It would be a good idea to hook it up if you haven't or are you using a temp guage wth a seperate sending ? If it is a bad wire you'll need to undo that clean job.
The way I check for ign. drop, is to put spark checker on plug wires, pull plugs out, hook up remote starter switch, turn key on, spin motor and manually advance trigger link and watch for spark to drop. Saves guessing if you are loosing spark through the advance cycling. By the way the boat looks great and should be loads of fun for you. It's great you are not afraid to tackle a project and get'er done.
It has a temp sensor on the head between Cyl 1 and 2, port side. I have a horn wired up under the dash. I'm sure it wasn't overheating though.Quote:
Originally Posted by FMP
I have a spark checker, I'll check that tomorrow when I put the new starter on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ally25
Compression check, ignition check, and maybe Friday or saturday take her for another water test.
Also going to try this friends 24" pitch prop.