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justa a little note on tha timin' thing.. with modules trashed set idle timin' on tha hose ta make tha motor run.. then put tha boat in tha lake, in gear and set it again to whatever makes you and tha motor happy.. don't worry with numbers... tha wot timin' would be best at 22/23* max unless your flywheel is indexed...……. jmo
On a Mariner 225 Super Mag is this module bolted to the top rear of the block? Left of center if looking at the motor from the back. I see two screw holes up there. I found the module in the manual but the pic is so close up it's hard to tell where on the engine.
I'm thinking mine has been removed by previous owner. I see a white/black stripe wire coming out of the switchbox that's disconnected. And found 2 green wires disconnected (plugged with a rubber cap) up near where the mount holes are. Thanks for any clarification.
Yessir. It runs pretty damn good as it is. I will scrap the module and test it out when I get it all back together. The way I’m reading it and comparing to the 135-150 and 200 models, they retard when the motor is above 5000, mine advances over 5000. I think that SB 91-35 has different numbers and sets the motors that came with an advance module to 23 degrees, but I can’t find the bastard. If I can get the woman to steer while I shoot it with a timing light at 45 mph, I’ll report back with my findings. When I was trying to shoot the flywheel with a lazer tach, she panicked and I could only verify up to 4500 RPM. So I had to buy a tach, compare numbers and return it because it “didn’t fit”.Quote:
Originally Posted by tlwjkw
Always set timing in driveway at cranking speed. No need trying do it in motion.
Thats where it’s is supposed to be mounted. 3 screw holes. Sounds like yours has been properly filed. Those green (yellow?) wires are something different. The only green wires I know of are on the trim solenoids. Of course, I have a different motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by DangerNewb
Oh, the coils too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Capnmoench
I have a 1995 Carbed 175 powerhead that I scrapped the block due to spalling on my crank shaft and because the two main crank bearings cracked and damaged the block journals. I kept all the carbs electronics and reedblocks and pistons,connecting rods. Let me know if you need any parts I'll undercut lowest price on ebay and it's guaranteed to be in good condition.
I modded an opti 175 head to my mid so i no longer need the parts.
I remember reading your quality trophy transom repair as I was doing mine on my 2302 with coosa board to get rid of weight on the back. That was some high quality work you did. The last of my spilled epoxy is finally coming off my deck after 2.5 years. I have so many chips and cracks and stains I wish I had gel coating skills like you or the time to learn it. Good luck with the offshoring, I'm content with the 40 lb stripers going through long island sound for the next year or two but people keep telling me if I choose my days there is no reason why I can't offshore for bluefin tuna with my 120 gallon tank and 10 hp kickerfor backup.
Awesome! Thanks, man. I'll definitely keep that in mind. I have the 150 block and electrical. Flywheel magnet is cracked though and the carbs are about worthless for parts. There's a lot of other usable spare parts though. I moved my comment on my scratched reed block to my reed thread if this was in response to that. I'm pretty sure I can work it down.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishinmymission
2.5 years! Still feels like it was yesterday. One doesn't soon forget their transom replacement. Thanks for the compliment, but I wasn't very lucky with the epoxy stains either. I am persistent (read anal retentive), so I gelcoated the entire transom. It doesn't match the stock gray very well, there's a couple spots where the wax cure shows different and streaked after l after letting my dyed, unhardened gel sit overnight in a cup and it didn't mix well the next morning. On the other hand, it's a dirty transom with lots on stuff hanging off of it, so only I really notice it. I had tons of epoxy stains on the deck. Even where I thought I cleaned up my footsteps and fingerprints. After a year, they reared their ugly UV yellowed head. I got rid of them by laying in the boat over the course of a weekend with a Dremel conical grinding bit held in my fingers, tediously working the grooves of the diamond non-slip with it. Then I sanded the surface with 1000 grit. After, I buffed with a medium cut compound. It took about 10 hours.
Be careful depending on that kicker for long periods and make sure she's running like a top. I was out the weekend before last. I'm still learning the fuel consumption and indication of this boat. I started the day with it bouncing at a half tank. I went about 20 miles and messed around with my tach. I was bouncing at 1/4 after that. Fuel went pretty quick. I dropped the kicker and went 6 MPH at 1/3 throttle on my 7 gallon tank. She was not running well off of choke, so I ran half choke and my consumption was up. I went for 2 and a half hours until it looked like I had 2/3 of my kicker tank left. I hit 3 foot waves way out in the shipping channel and some wind. I decided I'd better pack it in. The tides were against me even though the wind was at my back. With 1/3 throttle, I was going 1 MPH on the GPS. Half throttle got me about 3 MPH. I was 15 miles north of calm water. There was no way my fuel was going to get me there in a reasonable amount of time on the 9.9. I had to fire up the main. I was concerned about fuel on that too. I made it back to the point where the water was calmer, but I was bouncing at 1/8 tank. I made it 15 miles back to port after that, but there was a bit of a pucker factor not knowing the boat's fuel characteristics. Then both motors were sputtering and running like dog s*** when I returned. Carb cleaning fixed the kicker. Doing carbs and reeds on the main.
Nice. If you don't have a 4 blade larger diameter lower pitch prop (my new one is 10X7) for your kicker get one. I got an aftermarket one from solas. It's basically the pro kicker prop with splines for my 96 9.9 mariner 4stroke. For the slow hull speeds of our heavy boats those props slip much less and generate more thrust more efficiently at the same or lower RPMs. As for fuel economy my optimax actually gives me digital fuel consumption and mpgs to my cell phone via vessle view mobile bluetooth. I never really knew what I was getting on my old carbed engine but I feel like its double.
I also took my kicker off for most of my inshore fishing as I have faith in the new engine but will put it on for long 2day plus trips. Never had to use it but Seatow only costs $100(comes with progressive liability insurance)
I have Progressive and the tow as well I’m sure the Opti is far more efficient. After I get this pig running tip top, I’m going to consider some gauges and instrumentation for fuel flow and consumption. I’m working up to some offshore fishing eventually. I’ll have to look into a prop. The one I have is....well, let’s just say it moves the boat and that’s about all it does. I also want to make or have a solid mount made for it. That Garelick doesn’t seem to be robust for high thrust past 1/2 throttle. It handles it, but I feel like I’m stressing it.
I fatigue cracked my first fulton one from bouncing around in the waves. When I see that heavy motor bouncing around I know that bracket can't take it forever. So i saw an exact replacement on ebay for like for $45 bucks. I throw it on the boat. One of my first trips out I feel the boat lose a little speed going about 30 mph on the main engine I look back and think hey where is my trolling motor.
So the seller must have removed the mounting plate to get it off his boat and buggered up the threads on the nyloc nuts because the pad had new regular ss nuts on the bottom two. The top two were missing (jiggled loose) and the bracket bent and cracked so the whole kicker motor was dragging in the water probably seconds from falling off the boat.
Solid mount is the way to go. I just cant figure out how to get the vertical height change i need while ensuring the protrusions clear the transom. Needs some serious custom engineering as there really is nothing good out there for us.
Damn. Lucky you didn’t lose that sucker. I’ve been playing with the angles of mine. It looks like I can have it straight out or slightly down in the first lock past horizontal without dragging it getting on step. When I get it figured out, I’ll let you know some dimensions. I like to sink it deeper in the water so she doesn’t cavitate or come out of the water in rougher stuff though. It’s kind of a toss up. Solid mount and a jack plate with a manual crank would be awesome. They have the electric ones for sailboats, but $$$$.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishinmymission
Hey one thing nobody mentioned to me when I was removing my idle/knock modules years ago was to make sure there is a wire between the WHT/BLK switchbox terminals (bias circuit)...removing the idle stabilizer will probably take this connection with it... Maybe i'm just a dumbass but it didn't occur to me to make a new 4" wire to start with and it didn't run quite right till I did!
Good point to mention. I do have the “equalizer” wire running there stock. I can tell because the insulation was crap and I had to heat shrink to repair it. Sounds like a lot of older motors don’t though.Quote:
Originally Posted by gmacrae
all switch box v6 motors have bias "jumper" its jus that when tha modules were added by merc they added a "wire joint" on tha white/black that's up in tha plastic sleeve.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Capnmoench