when everything from 86 to 2015 is same stroke except the 3.4.... Green grinding wheel?? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Chaz
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when everything from 86 to 2015 is same stroke except the 3.4.... Green grinding wheel?? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Chaz
say what you want i dont find any better machine work then from james perry he is a builder as well as a machine shop man ive built around 300 motors most bored with a torque plate and a very nice cross hatch hone( not the 3 stone 4'' on a 1/2 drill motor and a zip it up and down a couple time and you got a professional hone job:rolleyes: )along with the best porting man in the USA they are just good real good i used Ruck till he sold out to Bocephas no mass
Does anyone know where I can purchase a 3.0 litre Torque plate ? Also looking at Sunnen hone
This is the setup that I have used for years.It pulls on the four head bolt bosses of the cylinder being bored.For those thinking of getting/using a boring bar,be sure to get the proper tool holder for "blind holes" it's a special holder that will let you bore to the very bottom of the sleeve holder.You will see in the pics that the tool tip is the lowest part of the bar.Attachment 332727Attachment 332728Attachment 332729Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil' Blue Rude
thanks for the pics !! Yes my Quikway came with offset cutter for blind holes Matt @ CCA Racing manufacture of Torque plates going to make a plate for me
There are also blind hole tool holders for indexable inserts available for the various machines if that's how you want to go.
Sooooo , I take it you left your conversation with Mr. Carson knowing just a little more than when you entered it .. :smiletest:Quote:
Originally Posted by cali kid
It's that way for most people ... including myself .. :thumbsup:
baja200merk
Quote:
Green grinding wheel??
It's pretty pricy having a tool maker grind up special tooling . A friend of mine has a magnetic table surface grinder , and it ... yes ... has a green wheel ... ;)
I picked up a 4" wheel from a flywheel grinder a few years ago and fit it to a .750" mandrel ... it's slow going , but it will produce things like this O-ring receiver groove cutter from a slab of tool steel ....
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...pstxsr0spp.jpg
My Kwik-Way SVS ll valve grinder uses a 7" wheel . I have both , white and ruby wheels that are due to be replaced . Instead of throwing them away , I'm going to cut a striped thread Morse taper mandrel to fit them . If the larger wheel allows for a higher feed rate ... so much the better. If not , it was junk ready to be pitched in the can ... ;)
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...psoefbywib.jpg
3.4 - 3.6 , bout a quarter inch .... with .050 still to go .... :D
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...psrruifmyq.jpg
Closed deck and looks like the deck is missing some meat :p
Just enough to make it flat .... and square to the crank :D
Chaz = thinking that you gotz a Palm City hedge clipper too ... ;)
How are you clamping the boring bar to the table? Can you rely on your tool setting mike to get you close enough to hone without measuring hole between cuts?Quote:
Originally Posted by outasite
Chaz has the block shown been sleeved with aluminum sleeves and being plated afterwards?
My Quikway model FN comes with optional 1-1/4 thick plate to which the bar mounts . Then you simply raise the block up to steel plate and bore holes , however I will be using a torque plate .
If you look at picture three,you will see a knurled hold down stud that screws into the table.The boring bar has a T slot that you can see as well,The stud slides into the T slot,the cats paws are used to center the bar then the clamp nut tightened.The whole process takes a few seconds.I usually take a .005 cut first,this will confirm that I am boring straight down the bore.I took the time to adjust my tool micrometer to cut dead nuts.I leave .0015-.002 to hone.Quote:
Originally Posted by LongShot
I am guessing you tighten the knurled knob from bottom of table once you center using the expanding catspaw? My Van Norman does not have a t-slot, i wish it did. I move the block around under the table while adjusting the catspaws out to center. You just have to get the block snugged up just enough to rock the block a little while putting pressure on the cylinder with the catspaws. Been torn a little bit around slotting the table where the stud I use to hold the bar down is threaded and moving the bar. Only problem withthat is I have the bar indicated in to the bottom surface of the table that the deck of the block clamps up to within .001" at 10" of sweep.Quote:
Originally Posted by outasite
I am needing some Van Norman 777 parts if anyone has access or some spares laying around. During a shop move the 777 was knocked over, table and all, and I think the column is bent. I am refurbishing/ piecing together a 777s now. Need a new set of the shoes that the catspaw's bolt to and mesh with the scroll plate. Will call Winona tomorrow to see if 777 and 777S catspaws are same. I installed the shoes out of the 777 into the 777s and they feed in and out but you can hold the catspaws and rock them a little vertically when they are fed out about halfway.i had the preload spring on top of the driveshaft loaded pretty tight. It should control mesh of shoes and scroll.
Dave,the T slot is attached to a lead screw that comes out of the rear of the main housing.The whole machine can rotate 360 degrees around the stud,plus move in or out a couple of inches,one turn of lead screw and its tight,very fast.On a V8 you mount directly to the deck,bore two holes from the one position,just rotate.Then move down and do the other two.