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I haven't drained it yet. I left it in to aid in heat dissipation. I only welded half the length at a time, and held the air compressor blow gun on it inbetween passes to keep it cool. the skep tip got hot, but the bullet never got past warm to the touch.
Keep it up right for a day before you drian it. Hope it's not full of eggnog.
A healthy dose of zinc chromate anti corrosion primer !
Dropped the power head, mid, and lower unit onto the jack plate. Had a mini heart attack why I couldn't spin the drive shaft prior to power head install. Turns out there's just resistance with the new water pump haha. Shoulda sprayed in some wd40 or put some motor oil in there. Oh well. Still more wiring to do, helm to install, shifter to drill and mount. Getting there though!!! I had to muscle the damn power head on. No hoist! 💪
NKG plugs. Check all the ign before you put the f/w on.
NGK plugs already in it! See the 4th picture in my last post.Quote:
Originally Posted by FMP
Still need to install ignition parts. Just got the flywheel Key in the mail yesterday that I had lost.
Still to do:
1) Wire EVERYTHING
2) Check timing w/ timing light
3) Investigate Main jet size adequate or not. (might need larger).
4) Adjust idle jets once running.
5) Compression test
6) Install Helm
7) Install Shifter
8) get it wet!
When you get the f/w on take the plugs out , get a piece of solder long enough to go in the hole and over the deflector and flat against the crown . Turn the flywheel and squish the solder, pull it out and measure the clearance or do you know the clearance? I can't see the plug name from here.
BUHW plugs by NGK. They're surface fire plugs. No gaps. That's what is run stock on these motors. I forget what the clearance is, but there was room to turn the motor without pistons hitting the head w/ out the head gasket. The head gasket added a little more clearance.
Good plugs, I run them over all others. They have .050 gap that is a bit wider than the Champs. After you check the psi and it has run a few hrs you might want ot tighten it up more. The thing is only three cyl to push the weight so it might want to pre-ign more than a four or five under heavy load. If you run light you can tighten it up more. .045.-.038 in the band on the top of the piston transfer side to the head at TDC. If the psi goes too high cc the head on the ex side to bring it back down to 165-185psi. The tight squish will help push the flame up and put it out to prevent pre-ign.
So I got the battery wired. Fuel tank plumbed. Shift and throttle cables ran. Ignition harness installed (engine side only so far, not key or controls). Power trim solenoids working great. Starter is strong too.
I bought a cheap compression gauge kit on Amazon, and either its reading really low, or brand new engines don't read properly.
Top cyl: 125psi
middle: 125 psi
bottim: 135psi.
Maybe all the oil or wd40 from assembly has drained to the lower cylinder? I was expecting much higher compression.
By the way... I hate wiring FYI. �� Anyone know where all these wires go? Half Mercury, half Chrysler. I have the damn hybrid year of 1995 when they were swapping everything over. Wire colors are half one schematic and half another lol.
Only because everbody does this once, did you have the carbs wide open and all the plugs out? Check it again after the rings work in. 25:1 Merc Oil couple hrs. Wires only go back one way, the right way. Your manual should have a diagram. That ign is Merc ThunderBolt.
That's a negative on the wide open carbs but yes on all the plugs out.
Link and Sync it, make sure carbs are flat open when throttle lever is full forward, make sure carb roller is just touching the throttle cam when in neutral, without fuel and using gun set wot timing , hook up and adjust shift rod to lower ( if done okay) , try not to spin the impeller too much out of water. Final in gear rpm after break in with screw and jamb nut on lower tower at case as you lean out carbs idle screws. Make sure neutral safety switch is set for no out of neutral starts . Hope you set carb floats while you had it apart makes it easier. Check that TDC on #1 is in line with timing marker and flywheel mark, use a pencil down the hole . Check dead middle of TDC with mark , adjust marker to get right on. I have seen them 4* off
Time should be about 32* BTC at WOT , the thing is with the wot timing back off , it will reduce the max timing at wot. On mine , I have adjsuted it to have max timing at wot , I also run about 35-36* static without any problems. If you start at 32 you may find that 33 -34 * works well, listen to it and use good fuel.
So all the wiring diagrams I've found have zero information on this skinny box you see I'm pointing at in this picture. Also, no idea what to do with the purple wire from the cannon plug harness, and the leftover red wire coming out of the switch box (both shown with plugs in them the same picture). Any idea what this box is? No wiring diagrams match it up, even the manual. It's got three wires coming out of the left side, and a single blue coming out of the right.
Which those left over wires remaining, the motor is finally complete!!! Still don't know if it's going to run or if the electronics are good. More to come.
Plugged in the source for my water pressure gauge right on top of the thermostat/block.
im hoping the gray wire coming from the regulator/rectifier will be a good source for the tachometer.