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With the jack plate all the way up and using the highest bolt holes on the clamp, 2.5" below the pad is as high as I can get the motor.
Got the power head together, found out I'm missing one carb gasket, and lost the flywheel key haha. Another week stalled. Still have yet to weld the new Skeg on, and paint The mid and lower.
What do you guys think about getting a bobs nose cone for it? I can't raise it any more, so I don't think the pointy nose cone would help much.
Work the cages, no reed stops and thin strip along the bottom for the screws. No need for carb covers. Motor looks good, everything looks good.
I just had this discussion with the shop owner that hung the 150 off the back of mine and jack plate or not......What I took away from it was I wasn't building a race and clean water or dirty water......Clean water being 12 inches off the transom and dirty water anything from the transom back to 12 inches. While at the same time the prop has to be in the water completely or you will be sucking up as well as low cooling.
I would dare say you want a little more prop in the water rather than less....Hell, I don't know....
It looks like your Cav Plate and a good half of your prop is going to be out over the water
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...921/mGgg0Q.jpg
I would think you need to get 2 inches lower to get some water.
Again, I don't know anything more than I have been told lately and I haven't had a chance to put my boat on the water as everything is cover in ice.
Your boat has some awesome style and great work on the windshield.
Karsten
Are you saying to only use the thin metal strip from the new reeds or no strip at all? I did get rid of the large reed stop from the metal factory reeds. I don't have a final picture though. Girlfriend was insisting I come to bed and rushed me LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by FMP
Thanks on the Style points !Quote:
Originally Posted by Karsten
I think I'm going to ask the question about height in the "Technical' section of this forum.
This Viper went 85 mph , the Chrysler on it was jacked way up . Just look at were the cav plate would be if the spray wasn't in the pic, that's racing. The reeds need some support along the bottom edge. So a strip as thick as the stop from one side to the other, but just wider than the screws, and a clean edge so not to cut the reeds .
Did you see the unopened package of reeds in my picture? The thin brass strip in that is all that I put on the cages. The factory stop with the three holes is gone.
As long as the strips provide good support without deflection at the screw heads. You could cut thicker ones, those are really Merc cages so depending on who packaged the reeds the instructions might be a bit vague.Use the tread lok. They say to use the factory stops on Chryslers but I don't and at first I did, gained 50 rpm without . Then they said I could run without. I said thanks. They might have edited the instructions , also some small OMCs. Factory stops gone, big clean up ???
I didn't use thread lock. Oops. There's a chance the screws will come out? They're in there pretty tight.
Been following the tread and enjoying the progress. Everything looks super. You've gone a long way on a 14' Bayliner....
if if you plan to ski with it at all, you'll be glad for a little prop depth. I would run it with the stock lower before you invest in a nose cone. Sometimes under 60, the cone does more harm than good. Keep up the good work.
Use the thread lok, why take the chance.
That's good advice, I would even say unless you are running over 75 or 80, running at an elevated transom height, you don't really need a cone.Quote:
Originally Posted by Velocity72
Seconded on the thread lock. Seen it happen. Screw won piston lost.
Got the Skeg welded on, and put a white stripe on the side. Still need to get the black rubrail installed. Too many more things to do ! Really not looking forward to wiring.
Looks good. Hows the oil look? Spring time . Snow this way.