Who in their right mind restores a BAYLINER?!

Haven't gone through ignition yet. Still waiting for my crank seal rings to come in the mail so I can assemble the power head.
Supposed to be cold here in New England this weekend too. -10 there calling for

So I couldn't do any stuffing to the block. The crankshaft counterweights spin right into that corner.

Gauge face painted, rear hole for rigging cut and sealed, and started on the power head assembly. Had a hell of a time getting the mid bearing races seated without clicking when rotating. That pin in the race seat is a bit$h.

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Originally Posted by FMP

That won't do much. Put the cage in the case and turn it over . Smooth any sharp edges . The block half will need work at the transfer window area , same thing smooth thing up. Don't forget the transfer cover block surfaces cut them down , mentioned it earlier. With that much lift in the ports you will need to cut the head to get the psi back. Put the two halves together and look at how they line up , surface to surface and smooth out any ridges that may be at the inner seam. After ALL the work is done on the block boring , honing, get some good epoxy , Devcon or what ever and add some to the block half in the port side case to stuf it . Where the rod swings by, shape it smooth and do it for each cyl. This is a pic of a race F5 someone did years ago , you get the idea. Don't go crazy with the stuffing just enough. Red looks good

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I'd like to see this block with the crank in it!!! How is there enough space for stuffing, unless his crank is shaped differently

Put the rod on and rotate it , fill the void. That block used a slightly different crank.

What is that brown stain on #2 near the top, RUST???

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Originally Posted by home made tunnel

Gauge face painted, rear hole for rigging cut and sealed, and started on the power head assembly. Had a hell of a time getting the mid bearing races seated without clicking when rotating. That pin in the race seat is a bit$h.

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Did you cut down the transfer cover surfaces?

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Originally Posted by FMP

What is that brown stain on #2 near the top, RUST???
Did you cut down the transfer cover surfaces?

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Covers? Check. Rust? Check. Just a surface spot. Wiped right off. Freezing cold steel in the shop, I turn the heater on and everything in the shop gets dew on it. Like a cold drink in the summertime.

Got the the rotating assembly done and bolted to the adapter plate. Got my bobs manual jack plate today too.

Next problem??? Locating my cylinder head bolts. I kitted everything together when I took it apart? Like carb bolts, exhaust plate bolts, etc. just can't find the bag with head bolts!!!!! Argh.

Why does this site keep flipping my pictures sideways ?!?!

So no stuffing?

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Originally Posted by FMP

So no stuffing?

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Negative - Even where the rod swings was very tight. Are you sad ? :(

I can't get the foot throttle in here either with the short snout of this boat, and the way the fiberglass hull tapers in. I could block it up to get some screws in, but then it's just horrible for comfort on the foot. Sooo, I bought a side throttle. BUMMER ! I'll have to save the hotfoot for the tunnel hull. I can't wait to fire this motor up. I'm anxious !

Was it that tight to the forward case as well and to the sides of the reed block area ? With the ports up that much you will need to cut the head to get the psi back.http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/73...f6dde709ca.jpg

Reed case to Piston case, those transfer areas I burred and blended to match. Also from carb plate to reed plate. Also the intake side cover areas. I spent a couple days burring and sanding with air die grinders / burr bits, flap sanding bits. The machinist said it was one of the best hand porting jobs he had ever seen. Post machining, I went at the cylinders again with the sanding flap wheel to chamfer the port edges. There just wasn't any room for the stuffing when I layed in the crank and rods. Look at post #182 where the crank swings. That's only about 1/8" clearance. When the Rod swings through, there's only about a 3/16" clearance. on the sides, and maybe a little more towards the peak of what looks like a bell curve.

The head was cut down 30 thousandths.

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Originally Posted by home made tunnel

Negative - Even where the rod swings was very tight. Are you sad ? :(

I can't get the foot throttle in here either with the short snout of this boat, and the way the fiberglass hull tapers in. I could block it up to get some screws in, but then it's just horrible for comfort on the foot. Sooo, I bought a side throttle. BUMMER ! I'll have to save the hotfoot for the tunnel hull. I can't wait to fire this motor up. I'm anxious !

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A foot throttle on my 16ft wasn't even a thought.....I had to do all new shift controls, cables and what.......Who in their right mind drops $9000.00 into a 45 year old boat?

Now I am figuring out how to mount a 13 gallon bow tank to try to level the boat out a bit.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...921/AtN0oV.jpg

I need a speedo that goes to 70-80 and I just upgraded to this one that is 55 MPH....I doubt I will ever see 55 but for those wandering around the parking lot might be fun to see the look on their faces.

Karsten

Not so fast with the neg Force comments. World record held .

Heres some updates. Installed the bobs machine shop manual jack plate. Got the cowls painted Toyota supra white.