Good choice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by noli
Printable View
Good choice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by noli
Quote:
Originally Posted by noli
Exciting! What are you going to use in place of balsa?
.
I'm thinking of using closed cell foam
.
I like the idea of a composite core but the strength is considerably less than balsa so thats something to keep in mind during layup. I have chewed on this a bit and figure that the problem isn't the balsa, its the sealing of the core thats essential. With todays epoxies and putting on 3 or more good coats I think the balsa could be protected quite well, certainly better than original. That along with careful boat storage and maintenance has me thinking balsa is still the better route for me but I could be convinced to go composite still... Really curious to see how you make out Noli
Any new core is exponentially better than rotten core though
.
balsa core def ranks among the top 3 for compression when its tubes are positioned 90* to the hull's bottom
but people get sloppy, folks will penetrate the covering of the balsa core and there goes another core down the drain
additionally, composite cores are very expensive
.
What are the top contenders?
"Definitely among the top 3?" I don't have a chart handy but I've never seen any of the composite core manufacturers even claim that those products have anywhere near the compressive or shear strength of balsa. Not saying balsa is the only way to go. Many composites have been used successfully for many years. Some of the best built new SOB hulls are still built with balsa for a reason though...Quote:
Originally Posted by noli
Divinycell, Corecell, Kledgecell are some of the top contenders. Also Baltek for end grain balsa :DQuote:
Originally Posted by TwzteD
No matter what materials you end up using the preparation and application are the most important parts. All composite can be done poorly and not last as long/take as much abuse as a balsa/ply build done correctly...
I rebuilt my Vulture with marine ply and balsa. Plus balsa is much much cheaper. The way I figure, my Vulture was lasted 30+ built poorly, it should last way past another 30 rebuilt properly and much better. It really all comes down to preference I guess.
.
Like Hippie said, its more of a preference
I talk with builders regularly and they're all going the foam direction
so I will do the same, they have sold me on foam for now :)
coosa, believe or not is a foam, but very dense and again very costly
.
IM glad Im used H80 on my rebuild, its very easy to work with and very light, when glassed very strong aswell. Seems to be a great alternative, I have used 3/4 scored and scrimmed and 3/4 solid sheets. Coosa is nice also, just use a mask when cutting either its very fine dust cant be good to breathe in.
.
that's what builder-X uses on their hull running surface on their bigger models
and the smaller models, they use H60
cool!
.
.
TwzteD, please share some pics
.
.
I too would like to use scored, scrimmed, and perforated ==> http://www.diabgroup.com/en-GB/Produ...ishing-options
.
Sure what would you like to see?
My bulkheads, floor, gussets, splashwell, all 3/4 h80 transom and knees 3/4 Coosa 26.
Floor has coosa plugs with t nuts glassed to the bottom so bolts can be used for strength and so it's water tight, I added foam to my boat since 13' in the ocean and don't want water to get it wet. Cap was cored with 3/4 scored h80. I aslo built a seat all out of h80.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74...psu4kxslx7.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74...psgb8uqbmr.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74...pst4c7fcnp.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74...pstlmzxrrf.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74...psz5c8qt8q.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74...psonxolohj.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74...psamprcxyj.jpg