Just like those !heres a pic of mine.
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Just like those !heres a pic of mine.
More work for you then, the previous design from Chrysler/Force are better. So you need to do some work to them to get them to flow better before you put the reeds in them but then they will help take advantage of the new reeds or you can just run them with new reeds. At least you only have three cages. What was the work you did in the previous post?
Just some work to the inside of the reed cast housing. Look on the left side.
What needs to be done to these reed housings??
i wonder where the closest outboard dyno is to rhode island
1st coat of red. Going to need at least 2 more. Probably 3.
That won't do much. Put the cage in the case and turn it over . Smooth any sharp edges . The block half will need work at the transfer window area , same thing smooth thing up. Don't forget the transfer cover block surfaces cut them down , mentioned it earlier. With that much lift in the ports you will need to cut the head to get the psi back. Put the two halves together and look at how they line up , surface to surface and smooth out any ridges that may be at the inner seam. After ALL the work is done on the block boring , honing, get some good epoxy , Devcon or what ever and add some to the block half in the port side case to stuf it . Where the rod swings by, shape it smooth and do it for each cyl. This is a pic of a race F5 someone did years ago , you get the idea. Don't go crazy with the stuffing just enough. Red looks good
Putting epoxy inside the engine clock worries me,.. How's that motor work out?
Putting epoxy inside the engine Block worries me,.. How's that motor work out?
It works, I would quess a large % of performance builds done buy S&F members know of this or have done it. YOu need to prep the surface ,coarse grit or burr then then clean , brake cleaner or such . Improves the case psi a bit to help the transfer scavenging and signal to the reeds . It is all the little things that add up for the better result.
That makes sense. What do they use as a filler in the epoxy?
So I ordered a rebuilt kit for .030 oversized from Tri State Marine. Also a couple other things. Finished all the porting too. Decided not to do the epoxy filling though. Once I get the kit in,I'm going to consult a local machine shop
Do they sell solid motor mounts for this mid section? While its apart would be the time to put them in. The stock rubber isn't in bad shape, but should prob do it anyway
I tried to put a second coat on the red today, and the underlying layer was just bleeding away. It was still slightly tacky from our new england temps. The mineral spirits in the paint was just kinda melting the first coat. I gave up after just doing the dash. Going to let it dry some more.
Stuffing will help the low mid with the high ex ports. Smooth things out a bit in the transfers. That leg looks like merc mounts so maybe. Did you go wiseco pistons? They make a diff in the weight,and the heat , so you can run a more aggressive tune and live.
A gentleman named Lee from TSM performance gave me this information about their pistons - That they are their own manufacturer, and the pistons are Hypereutechtic cast alloy, MS02 Coated skirts and Hard Coated piston crowns Kit #TS 100-205-20. I got the .030 oversized however.
I'm not too concerned with the low and mid, being that this should be about double the rated power for the boat. Should be plenty to not notice.
So I know the leg is a Merc, but the issue is what the heck mounts to get for it? Are all the mounts for Merc legs universal?
If you want to try the larger TC carbs you can buy them , I know of someone who has a few. Call between 8-10 pm 708- 863-7043 , his name is John.
The epoxy stuffing will AMAZE you as to how much throttle response it adds as well as the increase low end and midrange 'punch'. I did a fair amount of stuffing when I did my engine the first time, doing it again with some more aggressive porting and an overbore and I am adding even more stuffing to get as much as I can. I used the JB Weld and Steel Stick putties. Both areas show no problems after almost two years of heavy use.
Slimm
Attachment 334620Attachment 334621
http://www.tillotson.ie/products-carb-float.php#TC790Quote:
Originally Posted by FMP
Here's a useful link for the carb specs.
The force 90hp is a 75.1ci motor or... 1230cc. Tillotson says the smaller WB carb is good for 559 - 1200cc. But these come on it, and it's already exceeded. Unless that's per carb... Then it's way under.
I'll look into the larger carbs - Everything helps!
Regardless of everything, It looks like the choke point in the entire engine is still the reed block itself when looking at Area. I have the measurements written down @ home. I'll bring them up later.