Need help in figuring out head part numbers for 1986 225hp Evinrude

I have a 1986 225hp Evinrude e225txcda

trying to make sense of the part numbers for the cylinder heads

boats.net has two part numbers for this motor
0398269
and
0398268

I don't know if those two number denote a port and starboard head, or if they denote a combustion chamber size.

My motor has two different casting numbers
Port: 331490-4
Starboard: 331490-3

Are the two heads the same or are they definitely side specific? They look identical to me.
Based on the casting numbers do I have them on the correct side?
Could I swap the heads to see if the overheating issue swaps sides?
Of the two part numbers which ones do I have?

0398268 says "225 models only"
0398269 says "200STL, 200TX only"

https://www.boats.net/product/evinru...aee4a997dab79f

My 86 Johnson 200 has the same casting # 331490-3 both sides. So the 225 has a different size combustion chambers. the heads are the same for port and starboard. Fyi my starboard side runs 20 degrees hotter than port.

The guy to ask on this site is Racer or Instigator.

It's possible that the -3 & -4 just indicate which cavity of the mold they came out of. We had lots of foundry patterns that made 4 (or 10) parts at a time, each cavity & part was numbered so you could locate a defect. If all the -3's have a dent or chip... you would inspect/repair cavity #3 on the pattern.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by David - WI

0398268 says "225 models only"
0398269 says "200STL, 200TX only"

https://www.boats.net/product/evinru...aee4a997dab79f

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ugh I feel stupid...I should have clicked the links here

https://www.boats.net/catalog/evinru...nder-crankcase

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cfauvel

ugh I feel stupid...I should have clicked the links here

https://www.boats.net/catalog/evinru...nder-crankcase

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No big deal as long as you got it figured out. :cheers:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hydra-sports

My 86 Johnson 200 has the same casting # 331490-3 both sides. So the 225 has a different size combustion chambers. the heads are the same for port and starboard. Fyi my starboard side runs 20 degrees hotter than port.

The guy to ask on this site is Racer or Instigator.

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at idle that is exactly what is going on....130+ on port and nearly 150+ on starboard

At speed the starboard overheats ....I have two sensors to a temp gauge and a on-off-on switch to test the port or starboard head temps.
On plane the port side was midway on the gauge, and starboard was in the red section of H until once it hit H and sounded the alarm.

I could start another thread about my overheat problems.

I THINK I found the problem to be the Water Control Valve.
Water comes to it from a small hose at the base of the block. Then goes to the thermostat housings via a larger hose.
When I manually move the control valve's pin to be in the position it would be if I were off idle the water is not diverted to the telltale

I think the water coming from the control valve is putting too much pressure on the rubber seal that the thermostats screw into and keeping the thermostat seated on the rubber seat in the head.

The control valve is to put water against the rubber seal to make sure the engine uses the thermostats at idle and when giving throttle that water is diverted over board so that the whole assembly comes off the seat thus no longer using the thermostat. I have seen people assemble the valve wrong, it can only go 2 ways. At full throttle no water to back side of thermostats.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by racer

The control valve is to put water against the rubber seal to make sure the engine uses the thermostats at idle and when giving throttle that water is diverted over board so that the whole assembly comes off the seat thus no longer using the thermostat. I have seen people assemble the valve wrong, it can only go 2 ways. At full throttle no water to back side of thermostats.

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Thanks Racer,

I removed the throttle linkage so I could manipulate the water control valve while the engine was on muffs.

at idle and water control valve's arm in the position for idle a very strong stream of water goes to the starboard thermostat housing (then to port thermostat housing )

at idle and water control valve's arm in the position for WOT a less strong stream of water comes out, but still significant amount water goes to the starboard thermostat's housing (etc), AND NO water comes out of the larger hose of the control valve that tees into the telltale....

Thus I think something is up with the control valve.

I am taking that thing apart today to see what's up

I have photos I need to download from my phone to show the water stream from the control valve to thermostat...I 'll post that when I can.

Thanks for responding.

OMG I think I found the issue.

the larger hose of the control valve that goes to the telltale was completely clogged!!

Nothing in the control valve.

So at speed the pressure wasn't being released from behind the thermostats' seals


can't wait to try the motor on muff this afternoon.

Also I think I know why the starboard side on a normal functioning motor might read 20 degrees higher at idle....the tiny hole on the seal for the thermostat is blocked off on the starboard side....so it get MOST of the water pressure coming from the control valve.

Attachment 543116Attachment 543117

I think we are mostly good now, at least for WOT.

put it back together except for the throttle linkage so I could manipulate the control valve

at idle and control valve at idle position the port side was reading 130+ and the starboard about 140-150 +

NOTE: I modified the vernatherm on the starboard side, by grinding grooves in it so water would always go through. Doing that brought the temps down when I didn't know about the clogged control valve.
(I'll put back a non-molested vernatherm to see if the temps come down more on starboard.

within 1 minute of moving the control valve to the WOT the temps came down to 125+ or so and water came out the exit hose of the control valve.

We'll see on saturday or sunday how it does.

UGH

Tried to start the motor this afternoon to try with a non-molested vernatherm and the motor wouldn't start. First thing I checked was the 20am fuse.
When I pulled the two rubber parts apart the wire broke. So I imagine that was why it wouldn't start.

Thinking of finding a marine 20amp fuse holder that uses blade fuses rather than these tiny 20amp glass fuses


Attachment 543227